Wheels hard to remove
#1
Wheels hard to remove
I was removing the wheels for a front brake job and ran into some wheels that did not want to release from the hub. After I removed the lugs I had to beat the wheels off using a sledge hammer and a piece of wood on the back side lip of the rim. Even using a 5 lb sledge I had to beat the heck out of both wheels to get them off.
If I ever got a flat tire I would have never got these wheels off on the side of the road.
When I reinstalled the wheels I use grease on the hub hopefully to prevent this problem in the future.
If I ever got a flat tire I would have never got these wheels off on the side of the road.
When I reinstalled the wheels I use grease on the hub hopefully to prevent this problem in the future.
#2
Stand facing away from the wheel, bend your leg at the knee, and kick. Or sit on the ground, and kick it with a good stomping motion. It will pop right off. No need to hammer from the back side.
The hubs are steel and the wheels alloy, so they build up a little corrosion after a while. You could probably put a little bit of anti-seize on the hubs, to help it out in the future.
The hubs are steel and the wheels alloy, so they build up a little corrosion after a while. You could probably put a little bit of anti-seize on the hubs, to help it out in the future.
#5
#6
#7
Thread revival time.
I've just spent a few weeks replacing the front disc rotors and pads and the left hand hub.
The front wheels were last off the car about 3 years ago when all the tires were replaced, so while the mechanical repairs took less than a day, most of the time was spent in an increasingly more frustrating time as I tried to get the front wheels off. In that time, the weather turned from a nice 15C day when I started the job in the open on the driveway to a few -15C days with snow.
I had a similar battle with stuck rear wheels when I did the rear brakes 2 years ago, and I smeared a copper based anti-seize compound on them as a preventative measure (I'll see how well that worked when I remove the rears in the next week or so).
There's lots of discussions on the 'Net about LR alloy wheels sticking to hubs, and all the recommended preventative measures.
I have a lot of contacts in boating communities in Australia, and dissimilar metal corrosion is a major discussion topic (especially the reaction between aluminium and stainless steel). In discussions with them, there were two products that kept getting mentioned as a possible solution to the LR wheel sticking problems:
Has anybody tried these products on their wheels?
I've just spent a few weeks replacing the front disc rotors and pads and the left hand hub.
The front wheels were last off the car about 3 years ago when all the tires were replaced, so while the mechanical repairs took less than a day, most of the time was spent in an increasingly more frustrating time as I tried to get the front wheels off. In that time, the weather turned from a nice 15C day when I started the job in the open on the driveway to a few -15C days with snow.
I had a similar battle with stuck rear wheels when I did the rear brakes 2 years ago, and I smeared a copper based anti-seize compound on them as a preventative measure (I'll see how well that worked when I remove the rears in the next week or so).
There's lots of discussions on the 'Net about LR alloy wheels sticking to hubs, and all the recommended preventative measures.
I have a lot of contacts in boating communities in Australia, and dissimilar metal corrosion is a major discussion topic (especially the reaction between aluminium and stainless steel). In discussions with them, there were two products that kept getting mentioned as a possible solution to the LR wheel sticking problems:
Has anybody tried these products on their wheels?
#9
That extreme difficulty to remove wheels was my first hurdle when I bought mine (unused, parked for a year).
Decided that will never happen again and less at the roadside, with a round file, removed a frog's hair material off the wheels alloy hole, making the center never sticking again. Mounted on the hubs well greased.
Decided that will never happen again and less at the roadside, with a round file, removed a frog's hair material off the wheels alloy hole, making the center never sticking again. Mounted on the hubs well greased.
#10
Thread revival time.
I've just spent a few weeks replacing the front disc rotors and pads and the left hand hub.
The front wheels were last off the car about 3 years ago when all the tires were replaced, so while the mechanical repairs took less than a day, most of the time was spent in an increasingly more frustrating time as I tried to get the front wheels off. In that time, the weather turned from a nice 15C day when I started the job in the open on the driveway to a few -15C days with snow.
I had a similar battle with stuck rear wheels when I did the rear brakes 2 years ago, and I smeared a copper based anti-seize compound on them as a preventative measure (I'll see how well that worked when I remove the rears in the next week or so).
There's lots of discussions on the 'Net about LR alloy wheels sticking to hubs, and all the recommended preventative measures.
I have a lot of contacts in boating communities in Australia, and dissimilar metal corrosion is a major discussion topic (especially the reaction between aluminium and stainless steel). In discussions with them, there were two products that kept getting mentioned as a possible solution to the LR wheel sticking problems:
Has anybody tried these products on their wheels?
I've just spent a few weeks replacing the front disc rotors and pads and the left hand hub.
The front wheels were last off the car about 3 years ago when all the tires were replaced, so while the mechanical repairs took less than a day, most of the time was spent in an increasingly more frustrating time as I tried to get the front wheels off. In that time, the weather turned from a nice 15C day when I started the job in the open on the driveway to a few -15C days with snow.
I had a similar battle with stuck rear wheels when I did the rear brakes 2 years ago, and I smeared a copper based anti-seize compound on them as a preventative measure (I'll see how well that worked when I remove the rears in the next week or so).
There's lots of discussions on the 'Net about LR alloy wheels sticking to hubs, and all the recommended preventative measures.
I have a lot of contacts in boating communities in Australia, and dissimilar metal corrosion is a major discussion topic (especially the reaction between aluminium and stainless steel). In discussions with them, there were two products that kept getting mentioned as a possible solution to the LR wheel sticking problems:
Has anybody tried these products on their wheels?