Disco 03 is on her first trip to the dealership under my watch. It was losing in excess of 1 qt of oil per 1,000 miles since I bought it used, and based on the good advice I read on this forum I got a major GM warranty, so why not.

Their diagnosis is: leaks from timing cover, head gasket, oil pan. Also coolant from the throttle heater (not clear on that one). In addition, they advised changing front and rear dif oil - I asked why, like visible leaks, and if it was part of standard maintenance and they just said tech advises "based on mileage," which is 73k.

GM are sending an inspector because, of course, this will be a hefty bill, but the leaks should be covered. LR tech said he was going to try to get the timing chain covered while they are in there.

So my quick questions are:

• If warranty inspector will not cover the timing chain, should I fork over for it myself? I saw another post that discouraged a member from doing it even at 90k.

• If my Disco has had all maintenance to 67,500 (which it has) is there a need to do the dif oil? Would this not be part of regular maintenance?

Thanks for all the advice. I bought my Nitto tires and did my initial maintenance based on the great stuff on this forum. -J

 

How bad has it been leaking on the ground?
Did you actually spend any time under the truck looking for leaks?

 

I agree with Mike, if they cover it, fine. If they don't, go wash your engine at a car wash and get under there to see where you are loosing oil from. That is quite a bit leaking, but it is probably mostly from one place. The dealer will just replace everything, and with your mileage, you have been seeping for a while. Looks like a leak, but won't let much out.

Your diffs should have been changed at the 60K mark. If you have a record of this, don't change them. You can easily check the condition of the fluid. Have them show it to you. If you do decide to change it, go with a high grade synthetic. I have Royal Purple in my full driveline.

Oh yeah, don't replace the timing chain. There shouldn't be a need, unless they see a problem. Also, if your truck falls in the VIN range for oil pump failures, messing with the front cover (timing cover) might put you closer to a failure. It houses the oil pump, and it is the part that is not aligned correctly on some models,

 

Mike,
To check for leaks, I just hosed off the engine and parked it in the garage overnight, got a few drops from different places. I do a little work on my cycles, but I honestly am not equipped to tell where it was coming from. However, I knew it was leaking, not just using the oil.

This Disco is in the 2003 oil pump VIN range, which is part of the reason I got the pricey extended warranty. I hoped the oil pump would go before the 100k limit if it were bad, and figured I would also get everything taken care of that can be covered while under warranty.

This SHOULD only cost me $200. However, I never considered that touching the front cover could actually initiate the oil pump failure. Is that a real consideration?

I will not push for or pay up for the timing chain. Helpful advice. Thanks.

And, the 60k service was done, so it looks like dif should be good to 120. Thanks, also.

Otherwise, I'm inclined to let them do whatever will be covered, since the diagnosis alone probably ate up my $200 deductible.

 

Do you have a copy of my service list, if not yell. All fluids are changed between 25,000 and 30,000 miles, not every 60,000.
If they do approve the work, you should consider ordering, TODAY a set of 8 mm Magnacor wires and have then installed while they are doing your head gaskets.
As for cleaning your engine, a hose won't do it, keep it clean by power scrubbing it at your local car wash.

 

I've read your 60k fluid list/used rover maintenance a few times. Do you mean that list? I'd accomplished some of the underhood stuff, but not the under vehicle.

I did wash the engine at the car wash with the engine degreaser and high pressure hose.

I'll google up the Magnecor wires and see if I can swing it. Is it just that they will be much easier to access when doing the head gasket? Thanks again.

 

Jeffery212,

Best place by far on price is here: http://www.apexperformance.net/cartg...t.asp?scat=306

type in Apex-Wins-10 in the promo code at checkout for an additional 10% off.

 

Don't use degreaser when cleaning the entire engine compartment, only if you have a really thick oil build up. Degreaser on electrical connections causes problem, straight cold water is best.
Yes, when the manifold is off the wires can be replaced in 5 minutes compared to the 3 to 5 hours labor that is normally charged.

 

The plug wires on a D2 run under the intake manifold so replacing the wires while the manifold is off, such as during head gasket replacement, is the easiest. There are write-ups on this forum explaining how to install the wires without removing the intake manifold if you should decide to do it yourself.

Another good source for the Magnecor wires is Land Rover Repair Forum, www.lrrf.com. That is where I got mine from and was very happy with the service and price.

 

dont worry about the oil pump, as far as it going bad because it gets touched. the issue isnt how the pump is aligned, its the spacing of the dowels its located on, it comes off and goes on only in one spot, so it cant get misaligned. i would sugest that you ask them to check the top dowel hole on the cover for any signs of out-of-roundness, if so, you will have a problem