Well I was putting studs in the motor and pulled out the threads on one. I think my torque wrench wasn't as good as she once was. So while I am having a melt down over here, I would like to know if anyone has used time-serts and what their success has been?

This kit:

https://time-sert.com/land-rover/

 

I have used inserts before, but not for head studs(plenty of shops use them). They work great, but the key is drilling the oversized hole perfectly(not hand drilling and wandering off one side or the other) and tapping square to deck face. If the sert doesn't have good purchase and the tap threads are not made well, then it's a waste.

also, you say you stripped it out placing a stud (arp)? these should only go in hand tight. If stripped out tightening nut or placing a TTY bolt, then those threads were already beat.....

 

It pulled out when I was torqueing the head down. Also considering this: https://www.huhnsolutions.com/

 

When I build big boost LS aluminum motors I use timeserts for the head bolts. I cant give them enough thumbs up.

 

the longer the thread 'purchase,' the better it will hold. BUT, sometimes, longer serts are harder to thread in, and harder to remove..... Tap magic works great, but I really like WD40 for tap lube....

have a shop vac handy to suck out debris and clean your tap. ONLY a few turns at a time , then back out and clean the tap...go SLOWLY! And a plug tap for last few turns....

 

The kit has a deck plate and a Jig to hold the drill bit and tap at a perfect 90 degrees. PB blaster works great on aluminum with those huge taps. Also the drill countersinks and the thread inserts lock into the block on the bottom. The are not hard to install and are permanent, they don't come out.

 

Well I ordered the NS300L kit. The next question is do I pull the motor and do all of them?

 

Just take the motor mounts out and you should be able to do all of them, the motor falls forward and down pretty far. Also, after you set the depth of the drill bit, you can cut it down and chuck it with a 1/2 inch right angle drill.

 

Update:

Pulled the motor and started installing the NS300L kit when on my 5th hole I hit the water jacket. I don't think I installed the jig wrong since it looks fairly idiot proof but here we are. So now I have a new (to me) motor and will be trying the stud install all over again, however, I am extremely worried about pulling the threads again.

Also if anyone is in the market for a NS300L kit I have one for sale!

 

I did not use timeserts but I helicoiled a block on a Volvo. Rover blocks are different, very thin wall casting. I was using studs yesterday and stopped because I did not like the way they felt.

I am working on a more thorough analysis, but I will give you the summary I gave another member.

The LR head bolts are NOT torque to yield, torque to yield bolts have a necked down portion on the shank, the LR bolts don't. They are torque to angle. The purpose of that is create a specified gasket compression and thereby pressure capability. The angle translates in to a linear compression dimension. The instructions on the ARP studs are torque to force, that introduces variance in the gasket compression dimension and thereby pressure capability. Torque is a factor of thread and flange friction, which is a factor of the stretch force. On top of that, LR did not make the bolt holes deep enough, only 1 thread clearance when fully tight. The studs are screwed all the way to the bottom (or in my case, I left them 1 turn loose so they were not on the bottom). So if during torquing the stud turns instead of the nut, it puts that force on the bottom of the bolt hole. That can be an issue.

Studs are used on top fuel or other high boost applications. Top fuel is for quick changes.

Also, when we design machines we leave 3-4 threads clearance at the bottom of the hole to allow for manufacturing tolerances. LR left 1. if you run the stud to the bottom of the hole, then it turns, what hapens in the hole?,

On a block with no known cracking issues I would not worry about studs, but the LR block concerns me due to the thin wall casting. My BIL also has a block that studs pulled out the threads.

I have done a dozen HG jobs, never had a problem with LR head bolts, but I always chase the bolts holes, and lubricate the threads and the flange surface with grease.

I would never consider drilling the LR block

Counterpoint: J. E. Robinson likes the use of studs.

https://robisonservice.blogspot.com/...rover-v8s.html

I respect their blog immensely, they provide an lifetime of service experience to their analysis.

I provide the perspective of a engineering degree and a career in design and maintenance engineering on multi million dollar equipment combined with my LR experience. He has done 10x the number of HG I have.

You decide which way to go.