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Will ABS Option B fix the Three Amigos If Thrown by Bad Sensor Error Code

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Old Feb 14, 2017 | 07:13 PM
  #11  
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OK, so taking the Option B fix off the table for the time being then.

The bearing has less than 10,000 miles on it -- as does the sensor -- and both came together as a package from a reputable supplier (the Utah Rover guys), so am going with at least the bearing still being good.

Will buy another long version sensor and install it alongside the current one, then clean any oxidation off the the connectors and plugs.

Won't buy a $20 cheapo VSS, but also don't want to drop $200+ from dealer.

Anyone have a sensor source they have had good luck with?
 
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Old Feb 14, 2017 | 07:55 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by austinlandroverbill
OK, so taking the Option B fix off the table for the time being then.

The bearing has less than 10,000 miles on it -- as does the sensor -- and both came together as a package from a reputable supplier (the Utah Rover guys), so am going with at least the bearing still being good.

Will buy another long version sensor and install it alongside the current one, then clean any oxidation off the the connectors and plugs.

Won't buy a $20 cheapo VSS, but also don't want to drop $200+ from dealer.

Anyone have a sensor source they have had good luck with?
some people have had good luck with removing the sensor, cleaning it and the connector and it working fine. Could be a number of issues that caused it to give you a failure but start with the easiest route first
 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 06:35 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by longtallsally
Just went through this. The simple answer is no. I had to have a new wheel speed sensor installed in addition to option b performed. They are separate fixes.

And to be clear, according to GBR who did the work for me (yes, I'm lazy) you need the new style of wheel speed sensor that is soldered directly in under the dash, and they even had issues with aftermarket ones and said it would be best to get the OEM ones that are more $$$. I trusted them and a week later all is well.
Hi, a straightforward question to GBR "when my wheel sensors have lasted 14 years why does anyone need super dooper new type solder in sensor at extra expense" It would be great to hear their detailed answer as ABS wheel sensors aren't exactly rocket science and have been used for decades.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 06:56 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by OffroadFrance
Hi, a straightforward question to GBR "when my wheel sensors have lasted 14 years why does anyone need super dooper new type solder in sensor at extra expense" It would be great to hear their detailed answer as ABS wheel sensors aren't exactly rocket science and have been used for decades.
also a little known fact that if you have perfectly functioning sensors, your can go in the wiring look and cut the zip tie and there will be enough play for a 3" lift with good articulation
 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 07:09 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by OffroadFrance
Hi, a straightforward question to GBR "when my wheel sensors have lasted 14 years why does anyone need super dooper new type solder in sensor at extra expense" It would be great to hear their detailed answer as ABS wheel sensors aren't exactly rocket science and have been used for decades.
A very fair question. My understanding of the solder in type is due to resistance across the circuit. This is confirmed in that I do not believe you can get the simple plug in type any longer. The reasoning GBR gave for using the more expensive OEM solder in yep was due to the fact that they had a number of vehicles return that they soldered in new sensors for, and then shortly after threw the same code again. When they put in the "hot rod" ones as replacements, the returns stopped.

That's the best I got as an explanation and based on the idiosyncrasies of the electrical systems of Rovers, I buy it.

So why is it the Germans don't seem to have these issues?
 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 07:28 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by longtallsally
A very fair question. My understanding of the solder in type is due to resistance across the circuit. This is confirmed in that I do not believe you can get the simple plug in type any longer. The reasoning GBR gave for using the more expensive OEM solder in yep was due to the fact that they had a number of vehicles return that they soldered in new sensors for, and then shortly after threw the same code again. When they put in the "hot rod" ones as replacements, the returns stopped.

That's the best I got as an explanation and based on the idiosyncrasies of the electrical systems of Rovers, I buy it.

So why is it the Germans don't seem to have these issues?
Mercedes, BMW's and Hummers do have exactly these same problems only in most cases they are unseen as workshops at Main Dealers do the work for them. If you use electrical contact spray to re-assemble the sensor plugs/sockets there is never an issue. Yep, aftermarket sensors often throw up faults but at a tenth of the price many use them as they are often part and parcel of cheap wheel bearings. It's often a price paid for doing work on your own trucks but electrical work is often overlooked and underrated over mechanical work. As I stated, I have never had a wheel sensor problem in 14 years of D2 ownership and before that I had the 2000 V8 so together 17 years.

https://www.google.fr/search?q=merce...hrome&ie=UTF-8

https://www.google.fr/search?q=merce...+sensor+faults

It happens to many vehicles only on this particular forum it's focused on LR's more.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 07:42 AM
  #17  
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Again, can anyone recommend a source for a good sensor?
 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 07:53 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by austinlandroverbill
Again, can anyone recommend a source for a good sensor?
A main LR dealership gives a parts warranty, so theirs is worth considering but expensive no doubt. Another option is a clean one from a wreckers yard, Abran or Paul Grant might be able to help. All the cheapo sensors often fail electrically. When fitting a new sensor, use an airline carefully to blow the reluctor ring clean before inserting the sensor. Spray the connector plug and socket with electrical contact spray. Check with a diagnostic tool for codes and delete them, hopefully they won't return.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 10:28 PM
  #19  
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Ok after installing a brand new bearing-sensor combo kit on the right rear wheel, having the 4 amigos reappear after 3 months, then spend the next 9 months looking at the lights (and in a moment of stupidity, replacing the shuttle valve), I finally popped out the sensor, and here's what I found:

Sensor worn down on the end; and

A chipped up reluctor.

As the o-ring was seated properly on the first flange/level of the sensor (if it wasn't then the damage would have been catastrophic), I can only assume that the short cable sensor sent in the kit was a "tad" too long or the reluctor wheel was not precision ground and/or loose or both.

The vendor that sold me the combo kit (who will go unnamed for the moment until we see how this all plays out) kindly sold me a new higher quality long cable sensor albeit at the "sorry 'bout that" discount, I installed it (90% of the effort is routing it along the frame and thru the firewall), erased the ABS DTCs and viola, no more 4 amigos.

Hopefully the issue was the sensor length and not anything with the bearing and that the reluctor still has enough magnetic integrity to it to be functional for several years. Will really not be happy if a new bearing is required as well.

Stay tuned.
 
Attached Thumbnails Will ABS Option B fix the Three Amigos If Thrown by Bad Sensor Error Code-img_0024.jpg   Will ABS Option B fix the Three Amigos If Thrown by Bad Sensor Error Code-img_0025.jpg   Will ABS Option B fix the Three Amigos If Thrown by Bad Sensor Error Code-img_0026.jpg  
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Old Feb 24, 2017 | 03:20 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by austinlandroverbill
Ok after installing a brand new bearing-sensor combo kit on the right rear wheel, having the 4 amigos reappear after 3 months, then spend the next 9 months looking at the lights (and in a moment of stupidity, replacing the shuttle valve), I finally popped out the sensor, and here's what I found:

Sensor worn down on the end; and

A chipped up reluctor.

As the o-ring was seated properly on the first flange/level of the sensor (if it wasn't then the damage would have been catastrophic), I can only assume that the short cable sensor sent in the kit was a "tad" too long or the reluctor wheel was not precision ground and/or loose or both.

The vendor that sold me the combo kit (who will go unnamed for the moment until we see how this all plays out) kindly sold me a new higher quality long cable sensor albeit at the "sorry 'bout that" discount, I installed it (90% of the effort is routing it along the frame and thru the firewall), erased the ABS DTCs and viola, no more 4 amigos.

Hopefully the issue was the sensor length and not anything with the bearing and that the reluctor still has enough magnetic integrity to it to be functional for several years. Will really not be happy if a new bearing is required as well.

Stay tuned.
Hi, every single thing in the way of spares for whatever I check the dimensions as on so many occasions spares and car parts salesmen often are just that and haven't any idea. It only takes a few seconds to do a dimensional check on the part and often saves a long drive and a lot of arguing with salesmen who invariably think they know everything.
 
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