Short story. Rear passenger door has had the window motor disconnected and hanging In the door since I bought it. Previous owner started to take it apart and failed.

Front passenger window recently stopped working.

Before I dive into these and start throwing Parts at them, I'd just like to known what typically fails, the motor? The regulator? I'd like to remove the panels just one time and finish the job, rather than do it over and over.

 

Regulator? Often. I never had issues with the motor even once. Motor gear? Sometimes it gets derailed, just tighten the 3 screws that hold it.

 

Almost 100% of the time the 2 nylon rollers/wheels in the window regulator are toast. Another issue is, if the window was not going up (because the roller jammed) and the switch was still pressed that can bend the regulator arms too. The motors are stronger than you would think. Either way you will be looking at replacing the regulator or replacing the rollers.

I have not tried these, but here is an option for the replacement rollers > https://www.shapeways.com/product/ZQ...SABEgJByPD_BwE


Also helpful >

 

Could it be a connection issue? I switched out my motor, but I think something is going on with the button. Might be a different connection point. Am I way off base?

It worked for a while, but now I have the same issue again.

 

If the regulators were the issue, wouldn't I hear the motor spinning, or at least moving some?

 

The regulators go out more often, however if someone just keeps using the window even though it's popping/snapping or not fully going up/down without help that can certainly strip out the internal gearing on the motor. The motor will roll the window down, but when you roll it up you get a horrible sound from the motor.

If you push the window switch and don't get anything I suggest you get out a meter, disconnect the wiring harness from the window motor, hit the window button, and you should get 12v. If you don't then you probably have a broken wire or wires inside the rubber door grommet.

Also FYI if you go to a pick n pull the rear motor's aren't normally used as much as the front so I'd suggest grabbing a rear door motor vs a front for a better chance of getting a good motor.

 

Awesome, thanks for the tip. Guess I'll be breakin out the meter and leaving the door panels off.

 

Window motors and tracks are very easy to replace.
I bought both for the front passenger door.
Turns out, it was a broken wheel on the track.
The motor was fine, but I replaced it anyway since I had a new one.
Anyone who wants the good stock motor can have it for free, I don't need it.

 

Yeah on the 04 S project I’m working on the RF window did absolutely nothing. I pulled the rubber boot off & all the wires were good. I then removed the door panel & metered it out and I have 12v when the switch is pushed so I have a bad motor. I’ll either grab a junk yard motor or leave it for now as I have bigger fish to fry on the 04 than a window.

Poor thing runs fantastic and super cool, but below 1k after it’s warmed up the oil light comes on. I’ve already swapped out the timing cover, so it’s either new low end bearings, as a last ditch effort or dropping in another 4.0/4.6. SAI engine.

It was super clean inside the lower part of the engine when I swapped out the front cover. Sad when people can’t maintain stuff worth a crap (rich college girl owned it) before the man I bought it from.

 

In my case the motor needed to be replaced.

I've documented this in another thread. The motor sounded fine but would not raise and lower the window. When we took the motor and regulator out of the truck and bench tested it it worked fine. The motor moved the regulator mechanism as it should. But when we put it back in the truck the window would again not move.

That indicated the problem was when the motor was under load only. I took out the regulator and motor again to bench test the setup, but this time I put the setup under load by restricting the movement of the regulator. Bingo. The gears inside the reduction gear housing were fine but the hard "rubbery" material near the center of the gear had failed. You could see the motor shaft turning but upon further inspection you could see the crack in the hub. New motor from Lucky8 for $34. Case closed.