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WIP: Brake bleed not going well at all

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  #21  
Old 11-30-2009, 04:32 PM
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I might be able to borrow one from the Autozone or AAP; is the Hawkeye brand specific?

Based on the rebuild notes here:

http://flashoffroad.com/Maintenance/Brakes/ABS/abs.html

it seems like the issue might just be supplying power to the big motor that drives the offset roller, which would seem only to require a couple clipleads and a switch...

ETA: And indeed, further googling turned up this extension to that copy quoted above:

I’ve misplaced my notes for which wires to energize, but it is quite simple. Take an ohm meter, and test the wires and find the one with no resistance, this is the internal ground, don’t hook up power to it the rest are either shuttle valves or the motor which all need to be energized. I used the 12 v battery to run the pump motor and one 9volt battery to cycle the shuttle valves, and not one glitch after, but you do need to disconnect the positive cable to the battery first.
And yeah, Florida's a bit far away.
 
Last edited by Baylink; 11-30-2009 at 04:54 PM.
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  #22  
Old 11-30-2009, 05:30 PM
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Yes it is a land rover specific scanner that you will have to buy if you want it:

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/BA5070.cfm
 
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  #23  
Old 11-30-2009, 05:35 PM
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With the key on the 2nd. position, pump the brake 3 times and hold the pedal to the floor. If I remember right the pump will activate in about 60 seconds.
Any DOT 4 is great, full synthetic like Vavoline or Castrol is better.
 
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  #24  
Old 11-30-2009, 09:21 PM
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might have missed this question...is the cap off the reservoir?
 
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  #25  
Old 12-01-2009, 01:30 AM
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The cap is off, yes.

And that, Mike, may have been the magic incantation I needed. Will report.
 
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  #26  
Old 12-01-2009, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Disco Mike
With the key on the 2nd. position, pump the brake 3 times and hold the pedal to the floor. If I remember right the pump will activate in about 60 seconds.
Any DOT 4 is great, full synthetic like Vavoline or Castrol is better.
Good to know it's not as picky about the fluid as I'm told.

Alas, it doesn't seem to want to spin the pump for me. I checked for continuity across those two pins of the modulator connector shown in the photos on that page I linked above,
and I get no reading... and yet I am *not* getting amigos, nor have the two readings of my codes which I've had done shown any ABS codes.

Sure would be nice if there were, y'know, manuals for the subsystem components. Or *useful* subsystem diagnostics in the shop manual. Or even an electrical troubleshooting guide (like my BMW had available)...

What's my next play?
 
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  #27  
Old 12-02-2009, 09:24 PM
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Anyone? Anyone?? Bueller? Do I gotta replace the modulator? Or rebuild? Or are there some diagnostics I've missed?
 
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  #28  
Old 12-02-2009, 09:37 PM
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don't know much but have you checked the fuse(s) for the modulator etc?
________
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Last edited by cranky; 09-11-2011 at 01:06 AM.
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  #29  
Old 12-02-2009, 10:05 PM
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Oddly, I wasn't that smart.

Oops.

See? Nothing's too obvious a question. :-) Thanks.

(Though, on reflection, if that resistance test *really* indicates a modulator problem, it probably won't be a fuse...)
 
Last edited by Baylink; 12-02-2009 at 10:24 PM.
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  #30  
Old 12-03-2009, 03:29 AM
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No Worries,
I just remember reading here that removing some fuses was a "cure" for the 3 Amigos!
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Last edited by cranky; 09-11-2011 at 01:07 AM.
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