THIS IS ALL SO UNFORTUNATE.

You should have asked us what to do next before you opened up the lines to your pump. That just made it worse i think.

1. How was your pump working before?
2. Did TC/HDC/ABS work properly?
3. Did you have any ABS code? What were they?

When I removed and reinstalled my modulator the second time, I decided to bleed the system using the hawkeye. The pump ran like it was dying. Very slow, very low audible sound. I almost cried. A perfectly good pump and it would not run??

Well the week before I had installed a spare modulator and manually bled the system and everything worked when I engaged TC/HDC/ABS.... even testing it with the hawkeye.

SO... I stopped using the hawkeye.... manually bled the brakes... and then...

VROOOOOM... The pump came on using the hawkeye. Then I continued using the hawkeye to actuate the internal valves and then I manually bled them

It's almost like the pump did not run since there wasn't enough brake fluid inside it.

I have manually bled a couple of DII's and they all have had spongy brakes, including mine. After the bleeds it was a tad better but not by much. However, on my last bleed on my rig after I used the hawkeye/manual bleed, I noticed it stops MUCH MUCH better now... to the point I can put off buying brakes for a while...

So I agree the hawkeye or similar is a good idea.

 

There is a reason RAVE specifically says

Bleeding of the brake system can be carried out
using the procedures given on TestBook, or by
following the manual procedure given below.

WARNING: If any components upstream of brake
modulator, including the modulator itself are
replaced, the brake system must be bled using
the procedure on TestBook/T4, to ensure that all
air is expelled from the new component(s).

 

> THIS IS ALL SO UNFORTUNATE.

So was my brake system condition before I started.

> You should have asked us what to do next before you opened up the lines to your pump. That just made it worse i think.

> 1. How was your pump working before?

No way to tell; I didn't have enough brakes to trigger ABS.

> 2. Did TC/HDC/ABS work properly?

See immediately above. :-)

> 3. Did you have any ABS code? What were they?

No, I didn't have any ABS codes or lights either of the times I had codes pulled, as noted earlier in the thread.

> SO... I stopped using the hawkeye.... manually bled the brakes... and then...

When you manually bled the brakes, *did you get fluid at the wheel hoses, in exactly the same way that I never have? :-)

> VROOOOOM... The pump came on using the hawkeye. Then I continued using the hawkeye to actuate the internal valves and then I manually bled them

> It's almost like the pump did not run since there wasn't enough brake fluid inside it.

Could be.

No one seems to have an authoritative answer here, though, to whether the Hummer gent's assertion -- that an open pin-6-9 resistance measurement means something's broke -- is actually correct.

> I have manually bled a couple of DII's and they all have had spongy brakes, including mine. After the bleeds it was a tad better but not by much. However, on my last bleed on my rig after I used the hawkeye/manual bleed, I noticed it stops MUCH MUCH better now... to the point I can put off buying brakes for a while...

Well, my tire shop tells me that my brake pads are just fine -- and as badly as it was stopping, I guess I'm not surprised. I've always been conservative on that front anyway; I'm used to driving cars with crappy brakes. But a good emergency stop now and then is nice.

> So I agree the hawkeye or similar is a good idea.

And as soon as I'm sure I have a working modulator, I'll head in that direction, one way or another.

But I'm still trying to nail that down beyond doubt. And it seems amazingly hard to get a straight answer to that; no one seems to know for certain, and everyone disagrees...

 

FWIW, I've found a local, about 20 miles north, parting a 2000. He has the modulator, and wants...

$95 for it. I'm willing to gamble that.

I'll probably pick it up Saturday morning. More When I Know More<tm>

 

Pin 6 and 9 only test the resistance on the SVS.

NOTHING ELSE... If there is no resistance then

1. Your shuttle valves are leaking on to your shuttle valve switches interrupting the circuit....



or

2. Your SVS circuit board has a bad solder that you can either fix or bypass.



if your shuttle valves are leaking, you can buy the seals at falconworks

But if u were having intermittent SVS interruption, then you would have the 11.4 Shuttle valve code...

ALSO... not to push my own write-up, but I made this one for US rover owners.... aimed at exactly what causes the shuttle valve issues and how to fix it. mine isn't better then the hummer write-up, its just made for us.
http://www.landroverclubvi.com/abs-mod.html

 

I had read yours, but assumed it didn't apply to me, since I have no amigos, nor codes.

In point of fact, I'm wondering how I can *have* a bad modulator, without the car bitching about it, fairly loudly...

In other news, I note that *this writeup* doesn't suggest I'll need a scanner to play games with the ABS during the bleed procedure, either. 'sup with that? [ Reads all the way to end... ] Aha. Got it. So it should, then, be possible to at least *partially* bleed the system before one activates the ABS.

 

Anyway, I've *finally* gotten back in touch with the local guy who has the replacement modulator, and happily, he has to come *right down to a mile from where I work* for an auto auction tomorrow, so I not only got a deal, I got it delivered. ;-)

I hope to get it installed tomorrow night, and we'll see what happens.

I did finally dig out my rave.zip and unpack it on my laptop... and was surprised to discover that the PDF files are readable quite happily in Linux, with out using the bundled acrord32 or anything.

Not sure how that works out, but I'm not complaining.

I looked, though, at the electrical manual, and it *does not show all the pins connected on the ABS modulator... notably including pin 9, one of the shuttle switch pins.

So clearly, it's inaccurate, too. <sigh> It also doesn't say *what* each line does, they just all go to a connector on the SLABS box. I *think* the shop manual lists what those pins do, so I can probably cross reference it, but it's still irritating.

Thanks to jyc, with whom I chatted a bit about this stuff tonight; I'll let you all know how it works out tomorrow.

 

So, finally, today, at 3pm on a Friday, I get a straight answer from Mr Rios, who is advertising on my local (St Pete; 35 miles south of him) that he's parting out several Landys, and who told me a week ago Wednesday or Thursday that he had my modulator...

that he screwed up, he doesn't have a D2 modulator, and I should call Gary at LKQ Crystal River, who has one for half again as much money.

Gary couldn't give a *damn* if he has my business, to hear him talk to me, he's 100 miles from me, he closes at 5, and he is *closed all weekend*.

Cause *all* autoparts places are closed on the weekend; no one ever needs those parts then, right?

So, if I were you, and I lived in West Central Florida, I wouldn't be buying any parts from Nelson Rios, at 352-556-9662, whether he says he has them, or not.

Or from LKQ, come to that.

 

In fact I got the part from LKQ anyway, because I was out of other good options. They trucked it down my local lot, and I got it installed tonight. The raw Remove and Replace is actually not that hard, though I recommend that you *put a paper towel or three (still attached) down in the trough before you put the new modulator back in*.

That way, you can run it back and forth to clean up the leftover drips without having to fish it there.

Alas, I'd forgotten that when you remove the modulator, you need to bleed in stages; first to the modulator, then through the modulator, *then* to the wheels. And I was working with amateur help. My semi-pro help is coming over at lunchtime tomorrow.

Hopefully, we'll get it done, but I'm definitely going to get a Motive.

I just hope it doesn't turn out that the master really *is* bad...

 

Al lot of what I do for a living is reverse code engineering. Given that I have my hands on the LR dealer software to engineer a free version for laptops. I can tell you that all the bleed procedure does is cycle the modulator pump for a few seconds. Nothing magical about that, you can run the pump on 12V with a jumper.

It's the separate plug on the side of the module, fed from the ABS pump relay pin #87.

The real trick so far with testbook is how to get it from a touch panel UI to a GUI. But it's not impossible.