For the wiper, I like those solutions. I'm also really hoping putting in an AUX relay in the fuse box in the engine bay would make some sort of difference. What kind of relay should I get? I looked in RAVE and the electrical diagrams and scoured the forums for it and didn't find any mention of what kind of relay it needs. It's Relay #7. Any ideas? And for the wiper motor, I might have one to try. I think someone previously tried to replace the motor because the cowl is slightly misaligned and the truck came with a spare wiper motor assembly. I have a 12v power supply at work. I'll test it to see if it responds to any kind of 12v current.

 

Thanks for the info on the p1668. It seems like everyone either ignores that code or it keeps their truck from starting or acknowledging the remote. I'll ignore it and go from there. The real trick is going to be getting it to pass safety inspection with the check engine light on from p1668. If I erase all codes before the inspection, is it possible that it would come back that quickly?

 

so the manual, which you can find a link to on any discomike post, says use the pink. i say that knowing I have green running in mine with no issue.

About gumming up,KSeal is a small bottle that does not require you to flush your system after you run it though the system you should just poor it in your coolant tank and running the engine for a few miles and if you have a minor leak you will have a ggod chance of it going away for a significant

good luck.

 

p1668 should not effect any emissions test.

 

Turned out that the only thing the wipers needed was the AUX Relay and AUX fuse under the hood. I feel super lame. At least I wasn't as bad as the previous owner who immediately jumped to the conclusion that the BCU was bad and bought an extra.

So, now the other fun discovery (heh heh!) was moisture and milkiness under the oil cap... Looks like I'm up for a Head Gasket job with valve job while I'm at it. I found the source of the problem, I think. The tube on top of the thermo was hot while the one underneath was cold. I have a new thermo on the way.

Here's the question, though: why did the temperature gauge show the temperature at normal? It would warm up to the half-way point and just hang out there. Is it possible that the engine wasn't overheating?

 

Just replaced the Thermostat with a soft spring thermo and replaced the washer fluid reservoir. Also repaired the rear signal that was broken. Notes for those repairs:

Thermo: Used shop towels and a soft spring thermo. I was lazy and didn't want to drain the fluid, so I made makeshift plugs with shop towels and put a collection apparatus under the thermo and the immediate area. I also used the shop towels to create a protective barrier for the belts and other surrounding components. I used half a roll of towels. In retrospect, it would have been so much easier to drain the coolant and refill it, but my method actually worked pretty darn well.

Rear turning signal: My wife did a great job with this one. Instead of buying a stock replacement, we used the colored plastic repair sheets to replace the missing covers. a quick set epoxy was used to secure it to the housing and silicone to seal it. looks stock for 1/4 the cost.

Washer Fluid Res: The most important thing to remember is that the bolts that hold the res onto the chassis are not only secured with nuts accessible from the removing of the headlight and plastic body piece underneath. The bolts are also left-hand threaded into the plastic of the res. While it is kinda cool that the concept is there to keep you from having to reach in and hold a phillips against the bolt in such a small area, it isn't all that effective. It still can rip through the plastic if the bolt and nut are corroded enough. The best solution is to use a phillips head in a small socket to hold it it place. You can also use a super short screw driver, but I like the leverage of the socket wrench. Also just discovered the most incredible socket wrench in the world; it turns the intended direction regardless of which way it it twisted. also has a telescoping handle. Kobalt Double-Drive, I think? So much help, today!

I couldn't loose the rear O2 Sensors, so I bought a blow torch and emptied half a can of WD40 onto the rusted area and I'll try heating the exhaust pipe around the Sensor to expand the "female" threads and hopefully make the sensors easier to break free. I'll let the wd40 sit tonight and try to break them tomorrow and let you all know what happens. Using a standard wrench, I've almost rounded off the sensor, so hopefully I'll have better luck tomorrow and maybe use a set of tightening vise-grips...

I'll update with photos of all i've found when I get a chance. I also found a magnetic drain bolt from Auto Zone that had the same thread pattern as the Land Rover Part I have from Atlantic British. I have photos of that, too.

Next priority is fixing the defroster. No hot air. The button closest to the driver's side for defrosting won't light up, but the one on the temperature controls does work. Any ideas?

 

Haven't lost too much coolant, or at least if I have, it's not noticeable. After changing the thermostat to the soft spring, the defroster now works, and the heater blows warm air. So glad I didn't have to worry about the heater core.

It was snowing in Utah, so I didn't get to change the oil today. Feeling lame about that. Hopefully, I'll have a warm day soon before the hard of winter hits.

I have all of the SES codes gone except for 2 new ones. They popped up when I took the truck to get the Safety/Emissions inspection this time. While changing the O2 sensors, the front driver's side O2 sensor's pins of the car-side of the connector were pulled out of the housing. I looked at the pins from the other side and using the wiring diagram, tried to figure out which pins they should go in. I guess I had the pinout wrong because I have no reading from that O2 sensor and a bad reading from the other front O2 sensor (don't remember the codes, but those were what it read as). I know the two front O2 sensors share a wire, and I guess that had an impact on the passenger side.

Could someone do me a favor and take a picture of the wires going into the car-side connector to the driver's side front O2 sensor? I Need to know which pins go in which holes of the connector. I'm almost certain that's the problem, and/or that when I cut the wires and extended them, the coupling isn't making the signal transfer to the extension. because the wires are so close to the firewall, they're hard to get access to, and the couplers are attached pretty close to the firewall.

Wires I need to see picture of going into the housing:
-red w/ black stripe
-orange
-white w/orange stripe
-red (not shown in the wiring diagram) why?

I'm going to post a few pictures so everyone can see what I've been doing on this thread. There are more pictures to come, but this is what I have so far:

[IMG][/IMG] these are the two oil drain plugs. The magnetic one from Autozone was a few bucks. The LR one was 12. Same threads and overall size. Only difference is the size of the bolt head. the Autozone Part number is 652166, and thread info: M14-1.5.

[IMG][/IMG] Here's the top of my oil cap. Definitely have a leak of coolant into it...

[IMG][/IMG] Here's the relay in place in the engine bay that I used for the AUX relay that went bad. Novita RL44. $6 at auto zone. Simple SPST relay.

[IMG][/IMG] Here's a picture of the label of the extra BMS I have. let me know if you want it. It's free if you do, I just ask you pay for shipping. If no one gets back to me in a week or so, I'll throw it up on eBay.

[IMG][/IMG] This is my wife on the first day we bought the Disco II.

[IMG][/IMG] This is a shot downward looking at the broken rear windshield wiper. When I bought the replacement piece on ebay, they sent the motor assembly with the arm. I only need the arm. Let me know if you need the motor assembly. As with the BCM, free as long as you pay shipping if you need it.

[IMG][/IMG]

This is before the lens repair.

[IMG][/IMG] What normally goes in this box? Should there be something that I should put there? I've been thinking about fun things that I could put there, but I have other things on my list.

[IMG][/IMG] This is the reservoir for the wiper fluid before replacing it. This was a pretty easy task. I used silicone to seal the replacement neck onto the replacement res.

[IMG][/IMG] What are these three melted lines? What are they for? found them while changing the rear passenger side O2 sensor. They were close to the shaft you see there and the catalytic converter seen in the photo.