I have not chimed in yet but loads of good advice so far.

Check the condition of the headlights and tail light lenses on 03/04' The driver side rear in particular they crack badly and it is very hard to get one in decent shape.
Any indication of a coolant problem is a big red flag it can mean heads and head gaskets or an engine, it is walk away.
If you look at one with dodgey or poorly done repairs walk away.
Lift the carpets check for rust and moisture, sunroof and rook rack seal leaks are not uncommon.
Check all the doors open inside and out
Find out when the drive shaft diff and transfer case were last serviced - they are pretty damm durable but never can be an issue
Check the dash lights when you turn the key on ABS, Hill descent, CEL all need to light up - if not walk away
Finally get a 25.00 OBD reader and Torque for you phone - plug it in and monitor your engine temps and check for codes while doing a test drive. If the seller will not let you do that walk away.

Servicing is actually pretty easy, even head gaskets are not hard it is a push rod V8 so no timing to worry about. Everything else is basic, really basic you can learn on the go.
You can not check the transmission fluid easily engine MUST BE RUNNING and it checked via the filler plug on Disco II's

 

I quote my original post above! BUTTTTT....wow...almost rust free is a GREAT start. if the interior is mint, this one is worth saving if you are ready to spend $$$$

 

Thanks everyone again for your insights and suggestions. I did end up buying one from a local guy yesterday. 2004 disco 2 with 156k miles, engine looked good, new brakes and decent tires. Had catalytic converter replaced recently ( as the originals were stolen). All the interiors look ok, most of the functions work except the driver seat doesnt heat and fog lights are broken. No leaks and suspension feels good. It does throw a bunch of O2 sensor codes and ‘service engine soon’ so will have to take it to a shop to get everything checked out.

so far it drives great, comfy

 

Some pics 😀

 

Great find!

 

Let the games begin!!!!!! First off, the shop is a pretty good place to give you a baseline on where to start and what to expect. However, I would HIGHLY recommend using a local LAND ROVER shop (NOT a dealer) to do the initial inspection. If it is a LR shop, they will know what to look for. And be prepared for sticker shock- probably to the degree of what you paid for the vehicle, if not more. This is the part of learning to do things yourself. Also, be prepared to not get to enjoy it for a while (drive it) should some tough things come up.

So then, right off the top, your to do list no matter what:
- Front driveshaft inspection: Most likely you’ll need to replace it. GBR and Tom Woods are the go to (I’m partial to GBR) for this, or a local shop can build either a custom one, or rebuild your existing one to have serviceable U joints. This is a HARD requirement. If the front driveshaft fails, you will grenade the transmission, do body damage and basically destroy the vehicle. I’m not kidding.
- Get something to monitor temperatures: This can be everything from a simple dongle connected to a phone application like OBD Fusion or Torque, to a more constant connection like an Ultragauge or Scan Gauge. I’m partial to the Ultragauge so I don’t have to connect a phone application I get in the vehicle, and it does a bunch of other stuff that can help with diagnosis of issues.
- Download a copy of the RAVE manual: This is your bible now. Bedside reading. General research. The answer to all things. There are a few other manuals that are good to get, but the RAVE is one of the best manuals I’ve ever seen. Best part? It’s free!
- Get a Disco 2 specific code reader: Prices go from mild (~$120 for an iCarsoft) to wild (~$500 for a Nanocom, which does everything including program keys). This will be key to being able to start diagnostics and provide information to bozos like me and others who are much better than me on this forum.
- Do a service on every orifice that requires a fluid: Power steering, bleed the brakes (even if the rotors and pads were just replaced), differentials, transmission, transfer case, and even engine oil. Doing this will really help give you some familiarity with the components of the machine.
- Cooling system: I saved this for last for a reason. If there is red coolant in the expansion tank, you will need to flush it out and put in 505/50 green stuff. The red stuff is called Dexcool and unless the cooling system is in pristine condition (very highly unlikely) it will literally eat the engine from the inside out. How healthy the cooling system is will be determined by the temp gauge you installed. If it runs at 210F or over you should replace the radiator, thermostat (with a 180F one), and the fan clutch at a minimum.

Get ready for a wild ride of highs and lows. But if you can persevere, you will never want to be without a Disco (I lasted only a couple years before I had to get another one). Don’t just start buying stuff or have a shop do the work. Discos have personalities, and the more you work on and learn about them, the more rewarding it is to own one.

Use the shop analysis and what you can figure out to determine what needs to be addressed and create a list of all that needs to be done. It will most likely be a lot. Don’t get upset and just prioritize the list and determine what will keep you on the road and just chip away at it. For each of my Discos, it has taken me a year to get them correct.

DON’T just start modifying it with lifts and tires and racks and lights and all the stuff that looks cool. Get the thing running correctly and all the systems functioning and then you’ll be able to get rolling.

If you want some motivation and examples of the highs and lows, read my “build” thread. I was already a pretty seasoned gear head, but bought into the belief that Discos were junk. In general, they aren’t, but they are definitely a relationship that like any other, takes attention.

Most of all, try to have fun. This forum is a beyond exceptional resource and you should be able to get you through the tough spots.

 

Agree with everything longtallsally said above. I'm about three months ahead of you on this adventure (picked mine up in October) and this forum has been amazing. Check the driveshaft before you buy a new one, GBR is currently pretty backed up so Tom Woods seems like the only good option. I was really nervous after reading all the threads about transmission destruction and when GBR couldn't get me a replacement immediately I picked up a Lucky8. When I pulled the one that came on the truck it was actually in really good shape so I probably could have shopped around for a month or two. And the Lucky8 driveshafts seem to be hit or miss according to the forum, so I dunno if I would buy it again... I'll keep everyone posted if it lives for a while

 

Weird, GBR had mine in stock and it shipped out the next day. One of the best things to have when you have a Disco is this forum and its collective knowledge. Everyone on here is very nice and helpful, unlike some other forums I've been on. Maybe it's the collective feeling of "Wtf have we gotten ourselves into?" "

 

I'm a month into my ownership of an 01. So far I've been going through the various systems when weather allows. I've been very nervous about the reliability of the motor so I'm hyper focused on fluids and Temps. Enjoy the new ride.

 

The engine is pretty reliable really. As you say, keep an eye on fluids and temps and it will last for a long time.