Feel free to flame me, however I just want to be heading in the right direction.
All was well (for this week !) until I went hardcore off-roading around my 1/2 acre yard, went into Low Range to exercise the Center Diff Low linkage.
Driving on the centipede grass really must have tweaked something, because now I have the wonderful flashing CEL with code 705 along with the flashing M&S lights.

Engine off voltage reads 12.14. Key on not running I have a solid "P" when in park, press the brake it releases shift solenoid as it should, I get solid "P" "R" "N" , going into D,1,2,3 they all flash (NOT solid) corresponding letter on the dash, red light indicators light up as they should.
Engine started and at idle I have 14.61V, - idle with full electrical load I have 14.40V. Stuck in 2nd or 3rd gear by the feel of it.

Running the shifter through the full range a few times with engine off then re-started gave me my gears back and it was drive-able down the street, but still have the CEL and flashing D,1,2,3 when selected.
Tried a re-set with the OBD scanner but no go.

Once again it is parked until further notice.
Is this a case of cleaning the XYZ switch and fixed or possibly a cable out of adjustment? Cripes, I have owned this thing for not 3 months and it is something different every week. Welcome to the fraternity !

Thanks for the input.

 

Had same problem. Just replace the transmission switch. Youre driving in limp mode. But you can always trick the switch by driving 3rd and back to drive, for a while. If flashing occurs, just re start ignition and straight to 3rd and D once in motion. It worked for me for a while until I replaced it. Sometimes the gear wont change at all.

 

It's a real doddle to clean and refurb the XYZ switch internally it takes about an hour. You have to take it off to replace it so refurb it instead and save yourself around $500. Also extend the A/C drain tube and direct it away from above the XYZ switch, a source of many issues.

I did a write up on how to refurb the switch which should be on here if you search. From memory you need to buy some, preferably stainless, cap or cross head screws M5x12 or 15mm and nyloc nuts then drill out the rivets open the switch carefully and clean and reset the rubbing contacts grease it internally with Vaseline and check the seal carefully, then re-assemble using the screws in place of the rivets. When removing the switch ensure you mark it's exact position as it has slotted fixing holes and is adjustable.

 

Rebuild D2 ZF Selector Switch UHB100190 - Australian Land Rover Owners

 

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ong-ago-56113/

 

The unit you will have is likely going to differ from the earlier style, but it comes apart in a similar manner. Here's a thread for the newer style switch: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...replace-59323/ I had to work on mine not too long ago. Make sure you spray the nut on the selector shaft liberally with a good penetrating oil (like PB Blaster, not WD40) and be very careful when loosening it to avoid shearing off the end of the shaft. I know how easily it can happen because that's exactly what I did. You don't want to do that.

I cleaned mine up and it has been working fine for at least 6,000 miles, although I am still thinking about putting in a new one because having it fail far from home will not be fun.

 

You voltage is too low, battery should be fully charged. They say a low battery can cause the S&M lights.



Not impressed with the newer cheaper to mfg. design, failed on my '04 at 95k miles. Purchased a clean used earlier version and works good.
......

 

I've got plenty of good, used, early versions for $75 including shipping. Tested with a Hawkeye, they all worked fine and come with a 60 day warranty. At that price you could buy one, refurbish it if you're so inclined and have a great spare on hand for the inevitable day the one on your truck goes south.

 

Thank You everyone for the input.
After running the shifter through slowly watching the contacts make and break (red lights going on and off per gear selected) it certainly looks like I have a few lazy spots in the lower gear selections.
I'm out of town for 2 weeks, when I get back I will pull it out and clean up the contacts and re-lube it. I bought this eclectic funky truck to work on it with my kids anyway.
Paul, I might be getting a spare from you in the near future, always good to have an extra specialty electrical item in the garage storage bin.
Number9 - yes, that is why I posted voltages, I was thinking the same thing - thanks for the input. Battery is only 3 months old ? !
LRO3NJ - your method got me driving it just for grins yesterday, good to know.

"Todays CEL code" ? = 0327 knock sensor. Welcome to Club Rover !

 

Good price as a spare to refurb Paul. Well worth considering as they are an 'arm and leg' new.