XYZ Switch symptoms and what I have checked.
#1
XYZ Switch symptoms and what I have checked.
When starting the truck first thing in the morning, I occasionally get the flashing “M” and “S” indicators on the dash panel, . I shut the truck off and restart I get a start up with no flashing M and S indicator lights.
Once I have had a clean start with no flashing indicators, I am generally good. No related CELs.
1-My battery is showing a solid 13.00 volts after letting the truck sit for 3 to 4 hours to allow any possible surface charge to diminish.
2-Once the truck is running, I get about 13.5-13.6 volts whether I have the headlights, A/C blower and radio on or not,….doesn't seem to vary much.
5-I have replaced the XYZ switch with a recent salvage yard grab.
6-After a bit of adjusting,…all the PRND21 indicators do light up when they should on the center shifter console and the instrument panel
Once I have had a clean start with no flashing indicators, I am generally good. No related CELs.
1-My battery is showing a solid 13.00 volts after letting the truck sit for 3 to 4 hours to allow any possible surface charge to diminish.
2-Once the truck is running, I get about 13.5-13.6 volts whether I have the headlights, A/C blower and radio on or not,….doesn't seem to vary much.
5-I have replaced the XYZ switch with a recent salvage yard grab.
6-After a bit of adjusting,…all the PRND21 indicators do light up when they should on the center shifter console and the instrument panel
Last edited by bcolins; 02-20-2020 at 01:01 PM.
#2
Generally speaking, you want your battery to be between 13.8 and 14.4 volts when the engine is running. So you're sort of on the low side. Have both your battery and your alternator tested.
You can also check to see if your gas cap isn't sealing properly, but generally that's a less probable cause.
Also, check your codes. Share them here once you pull them.
You can also check to see if your gas cap isn't sealing properly, but generally that's a less probable cause.
Also, check your codes. Share them here once you pull them.
Last edited by Jason Feuerstein; 09-17-2019 at 05:17 PM.
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bcolins (09-17-2019)
#3
Generally speaking, you want your battery to be between 13.8 and 14.4 volts when the engine is running. So you're sort of on the low side. Have both your battery and your alternator tested.
You can also check to see if your gas cap isn't sealing properly, but generally that's a less probable cause.
Also, check your codes. Share them here once you pull them.
You can also check to see if your gas cap isn't sealing properly, but generally that's a less probable cause.
Also, check your codes. Share them here once you pull them.
#4
Just for grins check the Transmission ECU under the drivers seat. I've seen some M & S flashing issues from the darn ECU not being properly connected/secured. The Trans ECU itself could be to blame if someone spilled some coffee or a drink down on it bad enough. The AMP is on top, but it could have gotten wet/damaged.
Have you tried loosening the 2 10mm bolts and adjusting it one way or the other? Sometimes the smallest adjustment can make an XYZ switch happy or sad lol.
Have you tried loosening the 2 10mm bolts and adjusting it one way or the other? Sometimes the smallest adjustment can make an XYZ switch happy or sad lol.
The following users liked this post:
bcolins (09-17-2019)
#5
#6
Generally speaking, you want your battery to be between 13.8 and 14.4 volts when the engine is running. So you're sort of on the low side. Have both your battery and your alternator tested.
You can also check to see if your gas cap isn't sealing properly, but generally that's a less probable cause.
Also, check your codes. Share them here once you pull them.
You can also check to see if your gas cap isn't sealing properly, but generally that's a less probable cause.
Also, check your codes. Share them here once you pull them.
He went on to say that the only thing that looked low was the cranking amps at 501 (The battery was a 675 cranking amps battery).
Would a battery with 500 cranking amps potentially case the limp mode with flashing M&S lights?
#7
Just for grins check the Transmission ECU under the drivers seat. I've seen some M & S flashing issues from the darn ECU not being properly connected/secured. The Trans ECU itself could be to blame if someone spilled some coffee or a drink down on it bad enough. The AMP is on top, but it could have gotten wet/damaged.
Have you tried loosening the 2 10mm bolts and adjusting it one way or the other? Sometimes the smallest adjustment can make an XYZ switch happy or sad lol.
Have you tried loosening the 2 10mm bolts and adjusting it one way or the other? Sometimes the smallest adjustment can make an XYZ switch happy or sad lol.
I did put a new battery in it last week,....as Napa said my cold cranking amps looked a little low,.....so spent the $150 on a new Bosch battery. No difference,.....still have intermittent M&S lights flashing.
#8
As others have noted the voltage you're getting with the truck running is a little on the low side. You might try replacing the alternator.
Beyond that, you say you have no CEL codes. Does the OBDII device you are using read transmission codes?
According to the RAVE, there are 18 transmission faults that trigger the flashing M and S lights. All but one of them are supposed to also cause the Service Engine Soon warning light to illuminate, and 15 of the 18 also trigger limp home mode. Only one of the 18 indicates a problem with the XYZ switch. If the correct gear indicators are showing as you shift through PRND321 I'd be skeptical it's the XYZ switch causing the problem.
If you're using a code reader that can read engine management codes only you're not getting the full story.
Beyond that, you say you have no CEL codes. Does the OBDII device you are using read transmission codes?
According to the RAVE, there are 18 transmission faults that trigger the flashing M and S lights. All but one of them are supposed to also cause the Service Engine Soon warning light to illuminate, and 15 of the 18 also trigger limp home mode. Only one of the 18 indicates a problem with the XYZ switch. If the correct gear indicators are showing as you shift through PRND321 I'd be skeptical it's the XYZ switch causing the problem.
If you're using a code reader that can read engine management codes only you're not getting the full story.
Last edited by mln01; 10-29-2019 at 01:56 PM.
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bcolins (10-30-2019)
#9
[QUOTE=mln01;707378]As others have noted the voltage you're getting with the truck running is a little on the low side. You might try replacing the alternator.
Beyond that, you say you have no CEL codes. Does the OBDII device you are using read transmission codes?
According to the RAVE, there are 18 transmission faults that trigger the flashing M and S lights. All but one of them are supposed to also cause the Service Engine Soon warning light to illuminate, and 15 of the 18 also trigger limp home mode. Only one of the 18 indicates a problem with the XYZ switch. If the correct gear indicators are showing as you shift through PRND321 I'd be skeptical it's the XYZ switch causing the problem.
Beyond that, you say you have no CEL codes. Does the OBDII device you are using read transmission codes?
According to the RAVE, there are 18 transmission faults that trigger the flashing M and S lights. All but one of them are supposed to also cause the Service Engine Soon warning light to illuminate, and 15 of the 18 also trigger limp home mode. Only one of the 18 indicates a problem with the XYZ switch. If the correct gear indicators are showing as you shift through PRND321 I'd be skeptical it's the XYZ switch causing the problem.
Last edited by bcolins; 02-20-2020 at 01:03 PM.