... and yet another blown head gasket
#1
... and yet another blown head gasket
2000 DII only 89K Miles. Head gasket is apparently blown on the intake manifold side at #5 cylinder.
No overheat, no problems at all to indicate the cause. Shut if off one day after a 30 mile drive, no symptoms at all, next morning imediately got misfire on #5.
Looking for suggestions on:
1. Best head gasket to use to keep this from happening again? (It appears they were replaced by PO ... cleaner than rest of engine)
2. What most likely caused this?
3. What other parts need to be replaced while it's apart? (Water pump has been pissing on floor for a couple of weeks.)
If this looks like it's going to cost over a certain amount, I might just pull the motor and and start on the LS1 install.
I saw a thread about the GREEN trucks having these problems, I guess I should have painted it BLUE!!!
Thanks for all the great help!!!
No overheat, no problems at all to indicate the cause. Shut if off one day after a 30 mile drive, no symptoms at all, next morning imediately got misfire on #5.
Looking for suggestions on:
1. Best head gasket to use to keep this from happening again? (It appears they were replaced by PO ... cleaner than rest of engine)
2. What most likely caused this?
3. What other parts need to be replaced while it's apart? (Water pump has been pissing on floor for a couple of weeks.)
If this looks like it's going to cost over a certain amount, I might just pull the motor and and start on the LS1 install.
I saw a thread about the GREEN trucks having these problems, I guess I should have painted it BLUE!!!
Thanks for all the great help!!!
#2
I'm doing my headgasket now too. Labor of love, eh? I went with the Atlantic british kit. Lots of stuff in there. Don't forget new bolts. I would also do water pump, thermostat, and any hoses that look toasty. How to keep it from happening again? Million dollar question really. Have the heads checked by a machine shop, follow the book to a T on install and keep a close on the coolant temp in the future? Good luck.
#3
Honestly I think most gaskets are good for the job. Get genuine gaskets or better. As to what caused it. It could be that the heads weren't decked or the heads were not torqued right. Or it could be that they were never changed at all. Do you have the receipt?
Lots of people live by the ARP stud kit but I think stretch bolts are just fine. This isn't a high performance motor. I think keeping your coolant system in top shape with a 180 stat and an ultragauge to monitor your temps will keep your engine healthy for a long time. Get an airtex waterpump while you've got everything off.
The expense shouldn't be more than putting in an LS1 or new engine. If so that means you've got a cracked block or a slipped liner. And honestly if I had the money I'd get a new turner 4.6 with an upgraded cam shaft and modified heads. Still would be cheaper than an LS1 conversion probably. But if you did an LS1 swap id love to see it.
Lots of people live by the ARP stud kit but I think stretch bolts are just fine. This isn't a high performance motor. I think keeping your coolant system in top shape with a 180 stat and an ultragauge to monitor your temps will keep your engine healthy for a long time. Get an airtex waterpump while you've got everything off.
The expense shouldn't be more than putting in an LS1 or new engine. If so that means you've got a cracked block or a slipped liner. And honestly if I had the money I'd get a new turner 4.6 with an upgraded cam shaft and modified heads. Still would be cheaper than an LS1 conversion probably. But if you did an LS1 swap id love to see it.
Last edited by DiscoRover007; 02-11-2013 at 07:38 PM.
#5
use Victor Reinz Head gaskets.
Don't buy them on price - buy them on brand.
Here is my theory..
Radiator gets plugged EARLY.
Temperature is going from 195 to 212 ALL THE TIME.
maybe 100 times on a two hour trip.
That is flexing the head and the head gasket by contraction /expansion.
Or you are sneaking regular into it and getting pre detionation or ping.
Don't buy them on price - buy them on brand.
Here is my theory..
Radiator gets plugged EARLY.
Temperature is going from 195 to 212 ALL THE TIME.
maybe 100 times on a two hour trip.
That is flexing the head and the head gasket by contraction /expansion.
Or you are sneaking regular into it and getting pre detionation or ping.
#6
#7
Thanks for the moral support! LS swaps into old GM cars are becoming common around here, but making the 4wd, traction control and anti-lock brakes work correctly on a semi-modern chassis is going into unchartered territory for me. If anyone has any info on making this stuff work, I'd love to hear it. Rave has some really good info on computer inputs and outputs, but I'm going to need a little... maybe a lot more. Seems to be enough interest here for a swap thread. I'll try to make my decision about which way to go asap.
#8
use Victor Reinz Head gaskets.
Don't buy them on price - buy them on brand.
Here is my theory..
Radiator gets plugged EARLY.
Temperature is going from 195 to 212 ALL THE TIME.
maybe 100 times on a two hour trip.
That is flexing the head and the head gasket by contraction /expansion.
Or you are sneaking regular into it and getting pre detionation or ping.
Don't buy them on price - buy them on brand.
Here is my theory..
Radiator gets plugged EARLY.
Temperature is going from 195 to 212 ALL THE TIME.
maybe 100 times on a two hour trip.
That is flexing the head and the head gasket by contraction /expansion.
Or you are sneaking regular into it and getting pre detionation or ping.
Started putting regular 87 octane in it after I did a lot of reading on this forum, I did not detect a large amout of concern over low octane from the group.... since the knock sensors and computer should compensate.
Maybe the 212 temps and regular gas together was the pefect storm.
Thanks for the head gasket shout out. Looks like I'll be buying a radiator too.
#10