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It is the same one that is used for the inline thermostat mod, which it what I had on the Rover V8 before. I believe it was the lower radiator hose from a 2002 BMW 330i. I got the one without the plastic quick connect ends and cut it to fit. Lot of threads seem to say that the hose is the Gates 22073, but I can't remember if that is the exact one I had.
Edit: It appears that the hose in one of my pictures is a Dayco. After looking that up, looks like it might be a Dayco C72092.
Awesome, Thank you! The Gates equivalent part number is 22639. It's what my local O'Reilly's carries so I'm going to give that one a go.
I put in a Bosch 150 amp alternator from a late P38 Range Rover today. Considering the extra load, it seemed like a worthwhile option. $50 for a used remanufactured unit on eBay. Fits with no problems.
Intake update: After a drive, I noticed that the engine would run out of air at high RPM with the intake setup I had, despite the adding extra intake source and K&N filter. So I decided to cut the internal baffling out of the intake box, and that seemed to resolve the issue.
So to conclude, intake now has a snorkel -> fender tube -> factory airbox w/ additional supply from tube-> K&N flat filter (for discovery) -> intake pipe.
Now that I cut the baffling out, I am not sure that the additional supply is completely necessary.
The next mod – the Compushift trans controller. I’m just getting started with it, but it allows more choices over when and how the 4HP24 shifts. The install was a little complicated and had to jump through some hoops to keep all the dash lights / indicators working, but it does seem to be working great.
I put in a Bosch 150 amp alternator from a late P38 Range Rover today. Considering the extra load, it seemed like a worthwhile option. $50 for a used remanufactured unit on eBay. Fits with no problems.
Did you see any improvements to battery charging, headlights, running of your accessories after installing the higher output alternator?
My battery ranges between 13.9 and 14.3 volts while the engine is running. Curious if that was affected at all after your swap.
Can you please share the part number of the alternator from the P38 Range?
Did you see any improvements to battery charging, headlights, running of your accessories after installing the higher output alternator?
My battery ranges between 13.9 and 14.3 volts while the engine is running. Curious if that was affected at all after your swap.
Can you please share the part number of the alternator from the P38 Range?
At first my truck had a battery drain issue that was related to the low idle. When I bumped up the idle, it was okay. Then a while later I started getting a battery light, and started to have electrical issues. I think the old 130A had just given up. So I replaced it with this 150A.
I think it is a Bosch AL0809X remanufactured unit. It looks like on RockAuto they are $88.79. It needs to be the 150A alternator from 1999-2002 P38 Range Rover. The GEMS model from the 1995-1998 cars will not fit.
I have not had a problem with battery drain since. I also think the 150A is a worthwhile upgrade and pretty inexpensive. I looked at fitting a GM unit, but most of them are 105A or 145A (some are 160A), but would need a new bracket, so this was more straightforward.
I got around to adding in my second transmission cooler today. I decided to run it in parallel with the factory unit. It fit in right behind the grill.
Recently completed a trip and was happy to calculate a mileage of 14.8. Normally that would not be worth writing about, but with my rig having a roof top rack, roof top tent, probably about 1k lbs of extra gear on board, and oversized tires, that is considerably more mileage than I used to get with the old 4.0. With a similar setup and the 4.0 I used to consistently see below 12 mpg on trips. Also, I think the extra trans cooler was a good idea. I don't have a way to measure trans temp internally, but I can tell that with the extra cooler it is dissipating significantly more heat.