Did you get this installed? would like to see pics. I installed my aluminum allisport reservoir, haven't got around to the allisport radiator yet. I have it but been taking advantage of the trails while we have nice wether here in the midwest

 

I haven't yet unfortunately. The shroud fits nice to the radiator if you redrill the holes - see the pics below. Problem for me is that my kit was an early design that had a larger spacer than the later ones, so the engine sits slightly farther forward, so the fans are hitting the threads on the water pump for the old viscous fan and the upper radiator hose is hitting the shroud, so I am going to have to work around that. Looks to be genuine Spal fans though in the Derale kit I bought which is really nice.

 

Happy new year! Because I have been asked about it a couple times, I just wanted to say that never ended up actually using the Compushift in this Disco. It was going to be a lot of rewiring that I didn’t particularly want to do. ACE has a Compushift in one truck and instructions for how to install it and keep everything working with a second interface box. I figured out another option that gets some of the Compushift features for less money — modifying the shift points using a microcontroller.

I made a separate thread for my transmission / shift point mod because I figured it would be best to keep any technical discussion of that off of this thread: https://landroverforums.com/forum/en...ts-mod-109860/

 

Thanks for keeping this nicely condensed list. I am starting down the gm swap rabbit hole and this really helps. I understand some basics of the gm engine tuning and flashing the computer and whatnot, but I was curious about the Vin and information when plugged into a scan tool. Did you change the information fields yourself with hp tuners or something similar or did you have someone else do it? I know it's possible, but I don't know if it's normal to have a tuner shop change the vin.

I have to pass plug in emmisions in Utah, but I could register at my family's place in Idaho without such regulations. I think the plug in vin thing is the real hangup because I don't expect the guy at the lube shop to say much when a V8 rover comes in for a test and it's still a V8 rover if it states it's a V8 rover when he plugs it in. If it says GMC 1500... I might get asked questions I'd rather not answer.

Also, do you know of any push button shifting mods to turn the factory Rover trans into sort of a manual valve body, but with up and down shifting buttons?

I'm a newb and I appreciate your input.

Thanks!

 

You can’t change the VIN to a non-GM VIN with HPTuners. You need EFI Live or other software to put in a non-GM VIN. I sent a ECM out to a tuner to do it (LSX Power Tuning). You can still tune with the changed VIN with HPTuners, it just requires credits.

You probably could convert the Rover trans to a manual shift setup, but I don’t think it would work well. You can setup the Compushift to allow for manual shifting. If you are after more control, then that is what I would recommend. The Compushift gives you control over basically every aspect of transmission shifting.

 

I want to run this setup can you list the part # you used for the fan setup? Thanks.

 

This is it: . Derale 16842.

It is also available at Summit I believe. I haven't finished the install yet. I ended up having to cut a lot more out of the shroud because the fans were hitting the viscous fan threads on the water pump and the upper radiator hose. I might would consider a different shroud setup. It might fit on other ACE LS swaps because mine is a little farther forward than most. I think it would probably fit on factory Rover V8 setups without as much modification.

 

As another option, for those with an interest, I found after much aimless searching of the interwebs, that the OEM fans from a 2014 Ford Fusion turbo fit almost like they were made to go on our Discos. With minimal trimming of the original mounting tabs on the shroud, they stay in place almost by themselves. The shroud has speed flaps already installed, so hwy driving isn't an issue, and if you get one from a salvage yard, you are likely to get the wiring harness and wiring clips, which make installing it a breeze. It has dual 13" fans, yep 13", and being OEM Ford units that were cooling a turbo motor, I'd doubt them to have any less than 2200-2500 cfm each at full tilt, plenty to cool the Rovers. I have noticed when mine come on 100%, you can feel it under the vehicle. I'm controlling them with a Derale PWM fan controller so as to keep the chance of voltage spikes to a minimum, but they could easily be controlled by a cheaper method. So far I'm still trying to find the best place for the temp sensor, but the fans themselves cool the Disco down quick when needed, and hwy temps are great (90-100 over ambient, at Colorado altitude), I'm just waiting for summer to see if there are any surprises in store before I do a full writeup and show pics, but so far these fans seem to be a darn near perfect fit, much better than the other ones I've seen folks use, both from Derale ($$$$), and other OEM's like the Ford Mustang and 3.6l v6 (single fan, shroud to short and doesn't fit right). I paid $75 with tax from a local salvage yard for the Fan and Shroud setup, low mile car, came with wire harness and clips. I found the closest salvage yard to me with one in stock at car-part.com

 

For those of you who've tried electric fan setups, are you having any issues with a temporary voltage drop when they kick on, causing it to go into limp mode. I've tried 2 different electric fan setups and both of them would randomly cause this issue.

 

I had experienced a bit of that, years ago on a different build (383 SBC stroker in an '83 Toyota pickup), but was easily remedied by wiring the fans power and ground directly to the battery, not the fuse box or frame grounds. This is also why I like to run a PWM (pulse width modulation) style controller, as this also helps eliminate the possibility of voltage spikes, because it starts the fan motors at 0%, and ramps them up slowly, rather than kicking on and going to 60 or 100% immediately. If you ran power and ground to the battery, and still had this issue, than I would suspect you had a weak charging system, or really high draw fans that needed to be turned on slower to mitigate spikes.