I too thought the open/closed loop thing made sense, I was really banking on O2 sensors being bad thus replaced them.
However...... It's an interesting idea you have, removing them all together to rule them out, the vehicle should force itself to run in open loop and the problem may never present itself at all. That would indeed confirm a few things.
Good call on that RackoLamb1 MUCH APPRECIATED

My 50psi vs your 53psi might be a gauge accuracy issue, still that's noted and perhaps I'm on the low side being the GM wants 58, maybe yours is close enough and mine simply isn't. I agree on the coils generally but was thinking perhaps one had a solder issue that was heat sensitive etc. Shooting in the dark there right? I haven't had the injectors but certainly can. I've a buddy with a sonic cleaner, maybe he can clean mine for me and see if that improves it.

LKQ is $75 for an ECM, not terrible and I'm shocked that HP tuners can charge that much per ECM and nobody has done a similar program for free after this many years. I suppose I could swing the cost of the dongle and have some piece of mind. Is it a charge EVERY time you write or just per ECM serial number I wonder? I do have an android phone, I'll start looking through some software and see what I can find.

GREAT INFO!!!!!

 

I think for the Android you have to get the LS Droid to read/write and TunerPro to tune (both free as far as I know) and need a bluetooth dongle. I don't have Android, otherwise I would have already tested it out. HPTuners is 2 credits for this ECM, so $100 per ECM (unlimited writes on that ECM once paid the first time). Either way, I'd be happy to look at your ECM file and compare to mine if you read it. But I'd try Rackolamb's unplugging the O2 sensors first and see where that goes.

 

No change with the 02 sensors unplugged, bit odd. Worse yet no codes either on the GM side which means my tuner decided to disable my check engine light perhaps in the ECU? Making troubleshooting much harder probably. Perhaps time to contact him.

I'll be looking into this android tuning software. Much appreciate the info on it.

 

A lot of times tuners disable the heater circuit code from the front O2s, but not usually the code for the front O2s themselves. You might have to be rolling down the road in a certain MPH range for the code to come.

 

Hello,

I am selling a 2003 Land Rover Discovery with a 5.3 LS that has been built in-house. We have a lot of projects ongoing at ACE and I need time for new projects coming in. This truck is not in perfect shape cosmetically, but is in great mechanical condition and is a perfect truck for someone to start an offroad build with.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/market/104036

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFCPRaYQ6e4

Attachments area

 

Hey Fella's.
I'm struggling with the Power Steering return line...Every hose I've tried is damn near crushed closed because there's next to no room here.
I just have a couple questions for you guys...
#1: Can this spout/outlet on the pump be removed(easily) So I can install a -AN fitting in place of it?
Assuming this wont just twist off & I'd be looking at cutting and tapping...would this even be worth it?
#2: Is there any sort of compression type AN fitting I can attach to this outlet instead of having to think about chopping it off?

I'd like to see this done with a 90deg AN fitting so hose replacement on this is as easy as pie. That's the dream...
At the moment, I'm considering 2 options if my dream is a bad idea
#1 trying out a 90deg piece of silicon hose;
https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/p...lack-blue-16mm
Something like this, cutting it down as slim as I can go....I just don't know if this will work..
#2 SS Braided hose...again...don't know if this will do it either, thinking it will but don't want to waste money

Before I start wasting money on ideas I wanted to run it through here for feedback...

 

The outlet on the pump cannot be removed easily or cleanly. A friend that also did the swap tried to remove it and it ended up being more trouble than it was worth. Ended up replacing the pump I think after trying to weld to it.

Your water pump casting looks a little different from mine. The casting on mine is thinner I think. My water pump is aftermarket though. Hose on mine is tight there, but is not closed off. You could try to clearance that area on the water pump a bit with a dremel or something similar. Make sure not to cut through though.

You may want to try slipping the hose and clamp on the steering pump first, then mounting the steering pump to the bracket. Might have a better time getting the hose on then.

The 90 hose elbow could work. Then use a coupler to go to the other end of power steering line.

 

I was able to just slip it on with some force applied and it's been fine. Mine looked like the photos above, not much room and certainly plenty of contact on the side of the hose but, so be it.

The 90* silicone elbow cut down to length is the right move in my opinion, I was going to do that if the hose itself directly was an issue but it wasn't on my end for whatever reason..

 

I got it sorted. Some pics here to show what I've done.
I used a 90° Molded hose, ACDelco #14243S and cut the one side down to just under an inch. Mended that together with another hose to get to the reservoir.







Thanks all!

 

I haven't purchased the kit yet so this may be covered in the documentation, but is it possible to use the GM power steering pump?