Hope everyone is still working on their swaps or better yet, enjoying driving their swapped Discos around this summer!
I'm slowly working on some of the imperfect parts of my swap and wanted to see if anyone has figured out how to straighten out their engine in their bay?
In my opinion it seems like the motor mounts need to be slightly different lengths as the engine angles towards the passenger side.
ACE - if you're reading, can you please comment on what changes the new kits have from your earlier beta kits that you sent out? Are there any improvements that the early adopters can take advantage of?
Maybe different engine mounts?

 

There a number of changes between the current kits and the beta kits. Most parts in the kit are now cut with a waterjet. This is more expensive, but the end product is very nice.

Regarding the motor mounts, the beta kit mounts had non-slotted frame boltholes. Last year we started slotting the mounts to allow the engine placement to move a little from left to right. This compensates for differences between frames and frame tolerances. We’ve seen some surprisingly significant variations on tolerances on these frames. Also loosening the transmission and transfer case mounts can help this as well.

As always, feel free to reach out with any questions / comments. We have some pretty exciting stuff happening here and I can’t want to show it to y’all.

alternativeconversion@gmail.com

 

Hi Everyone,
It's been a while since I've been able to work on the truck, today was the first time in a long time.
I pretty much have the wiring done, but I've got a couple random plugs left that I did not label, and I am hoping someone may be able to help identify what they are/where they go.


GM evap on the intake, and the LR evap canister.
I dont know if I missed something here but I dont have anything left that would plug into either. My GM harness is new from PSI and It dosnt look like its on there..




this ones odd...coming from what seems like under the battery tray into the headlight...not seeing where to put this.



Last of all, off the GM harness I've got a Reverse Lockout & an Alternator Plug...Both I've taped up, just want to confirm I'm not using those..

If anyone can help, that would save some stress...In the meantime, I'll keep reading..
Thank you!

 

For the GM / Rover EVAP, check out the document in the instructions folder on the website referring to "Purge Valve Install". That should give you the information you need. PSI does not provide a purge valve hookup on their harnesses, but you can add one.

Reverse Lockout and the alternator plug are not used.

That last plug I do not recognize. I don't think it is for the engine. I would just leave it for now.

 

Question about this conversation kit. Can I still retain the original ACE pump?

 

I wish had more concrete info, but unfortunately we have been unable to find a complete ACE truck to test the swap on.

We have tested the fitment of the ACE pump on the brackets and it will fit. The lines to it may need to some modification.

 

Thank you
I haven't looked at your site in a while, all the new info you've added is great. I don't see the instructions folder, assuming it is through the owners login?
In which case I await approval 👌

 

What type of has mileage is everyone seeing on their LS swaps?

 

I’d say about 10-15% better than stock probably on average for me. Depends on your setup. My 4.0 was struggling with the heavy load and big tires. I think the extra power leads me to drive a bit faster.

 

Read the EVAP manual, and found a new question..
Why dont I just remove the entire evap system instead?
If I make the evap line a capped vent line into the engine bay, can I leave it at that and have a shop program the computer to stop checking for it?
Im not sure if I'm getting it... I dont have to worry about emissions testing, but I don't want the dash lit up either..