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Discovery 2 LS Conversion

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Old Mar 3, 2023 | 11:32 AM
  #1341  
Jlutty3's Avatar
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Originally Posted by rynoman1
If your looking for speed buy a vehicle made for it... This puts reliability and being able to have some fun with it without the worry
Have you driven a 5.3-powered Chevy truck, a Discovery 2 with a Rover V8, and a Discovery 2 with the 5.3? I'm thinking with a little less weight than my last Silverado, my '03 Disco might actually feel rather eager in traffic by comparison.

I'll be able to answer my own question in about a month.

 
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Old Mar 3, 2023 | 12:07 PM
  #1342  
rynoman1's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Jlutty3
Have you driven a 5.3-powered Chevy truck, a Discovery 2 with a Rover V8, and a Discovery 2 with the 5.3? I'm thinking with a little less weight than my last Silverado, my '03 Disco might actually feel rather eager in traffic by comparison.

I'll be able to answer my own question in about a month.
Yes I have been driving a 5.3 disco for 2 years now. Also have drove a Silverado and stock disco.

my 5.3 is stock no performance parts. It drives great. Did not build it for speed.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2023 | 12:37 PM
  #1343  
BoulderCharles's Avatar
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Fun thought experiment, and I'd watch a video on the comparison, but acceleration is as much a factor of gearing and tire size as the weight-to-horsepower ratio. The Disco has a 1.2:1 transfer case, which will slow down acceleration (as the transmission output needs to turn 1.2 times to turn the driveshafts 1 time).
 
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Old Mar 20, 2023 | 11:55 AM
  #1344  
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Default Is Rover MAF necessary?

Anyone know why ACE recommends using the stock Rover MAF in line with the much larger GM MAF and 4 inch throttle body. After my dyno tuner removed the 3 inch Rover MAF the motor ran better and picked up 50 horse power with just that change, indicating that air was flowing more freely through the intake system, which is what the motor wanted and needed.
I drove the Rover home from the dyno tuner about 125 miles without the Rover MAF installed and noticed no drivability issues or warnings lights on the dash. Why run the stock MAF if it is going to strangle the LS? What info does the Rover MAF provide to the Rover PCM, if any?
I’m vexed by this one.
LM4 with Truck Norris cam, by the way. Otherwise very stock.
Update: Further research has revealed the MAF helps control shifting in the trans. So what’s the solution???? Run the stock Rover MAF and give away 50 horse power but get better shifting, or don’t run the Rover MAF?
What harm can be done to the Zf4hp24 transmission if no stock Rover MAF is used?

 
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Old Mar 20, 2023 | 01:21 PM
  #1345  
CPTKAOS's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Tracecollier@yahoo.com
Anyone know why ACE recommends using the stock Rover MAF in line with the much larger GM MAF and 4 inch throttle body. After my dyno tuner removed the 3 inch Rover MAF the motor ran better and picked up 50 horse power with just that change, indicating that air was flowing more freely through the intake system, which is what the motor wanted and needed.
I drove the Rover home from the dyno tuner about 125 miles without the Rover MAF installed and noticed no drivability issues or warnings lights on the dash. Why run the stock MAF if it is going to strangle the LS? What info does the Rover MAF provide to the Rover PCM, if any?
I’m vexed by this one.
LM4 with Truck Norris cam, by the way. Otherwise very stock.
Update: Further research has revealed the MAF helps control shifting in the trans. So what’s the solution???? Run the stock Rover MAF and give away 50 horse power but get better shifting, or don’t run the Rover MAF?
What harm can be done to the Zf4hp24 transmission if no stock Rover MAF is used?
yeah interesting! Was wondering the same thing, but haven’t gotten mine running yet. As an aside is there a way to alter the mode button to have it default to “sport” as that should be better all the time.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2023 | 11:09 PM
  #1346  
04disco2va's Avatar
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From: Ft Lauderdale, FL
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Originally Posted by Tracecollier@yahoo.com
Anyone know why ACE recommends using the stock Rover MAF in line with the much larger GM MAF and 4 inch throttle body. After my dyno tuner removed the 3 inch Rover MAF the motor ran better and picked up 50 horse power with just that change, indicating that air was flowing more freely through the intake system, which is what the motor wanted and needed.
I drove the Rover home from the dyno tuner about 125 miles without the Rover MAF installed and noticed no drivability issues or warnings lights on the dash. Why run the stock MAF if it is going to strangle the LS? What info does the Rover MAF provide to the Rover PCM, if any?
I’m vexed by this one.
LM4 with Truck Norris cam, by the way. Otherwise very stock.
Update: Further research has revealed the MAF helps control shifting in the trans. So what’s the solution???? Run the stock Rover MAF and give away 50 horse power but get better shifting, or don’t run the Rover MAF?
What harm can be done to the Zf4hp24 transmission if no stock Rover MAF is used?
Interested to see what people will say on this. I’m in the middle of my build and was just having this conversation with the mechanic today. Would like to not have to reduce down to a less than 3.25” tube. He suggested using MAF sensor without the housing and somehow mount directly on intake tube. Not sure if anyone has done this. Or like you said leave it off. Wow 50 horsepower!
 
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Old Mar 22, 2023 | 07:41 AM
  #1347  
CPTKAOS's Avatar
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Well the problem with MAFs is they are calibrated to the tube size. So removing it from the tube would not work. I am wondering if the whole MAF can be installed inside the large tube. Would still have some restriction but not near as much as reducing down to the small tube.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2023 | 07:57 AM
  #1348  
Boostle's Avatar
Mudding
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Mafless for 4k miles
 
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Old Mar 22, 2023 | 08:03 AM
  #1349  
CPTKAOS's Avatar
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No issues with shifting? Using “sport” mode all the time? Has anyone figured out how to default to sport mode? I’m guessing it’s a swap of two wires from the plug.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2023 | 08:05 AM
  #1350  
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Originally Posted by CPTKAOS
No issues with shifting? Using “sport” mode all the time? Has anyone figured out how to default to sport mode? I’m guessing it’s a swap of two wires from the plug.
Not that I can tell. I'm in sport mode 90 percent of the time. The kickdown is more responsive. When I want it to be less aggressive I will switch it off.
 
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