Thanks Aaron. I will go through again to see what I missed or did incorrectly.
**As I’m working on clarifying the connections with you, looking more closely at the diagram I’m wondering if I did this wrong. Ugh

For example, VSS GM+ Wire (yellow) from ECB is spliced in at the Red GM connector pin 21 wire. I cut wire couple of inches up from Red GM ECM plug/pin and made the splice. 3 wires. Should I have only connected VSS GM+ Yellow wire direct to pin 21 wire after cutting. Leaving the outgoing original GM pin 21 wire cut/not connected?

Hope that makes since, it’s a little late and long day ! Appreciate the help.

 

Please disregard this. I did do this incorrectly, made the fixes today so hopefully should be good now !

 

My friend and I have recently completed swapping a 6.0 LS (LQ9) into my 2003. Everything was completed mostly by the book with a few exceptions:

- I’m opting to not run the Rover MAF. Unable to feel any difference at this point.

- Evap has been deleted

- Catless exhaust

- LS PCM is configured per ACE’s spec, but it has been performance tuned for 93 octane

- Custom 3” stainless air intake rather than the spectrum (we chose 3” for the extra clearance for the tight radius)

- Running an adapter to bring the LS harness 2-wire IAT connector and harness 3-wire MAF connector into the 5-wire GM MAF.

I just rolled over 200 miles on the swap and so far so good. I’ll probably leave the truck as is with the exception of some 32” AT tires next week. Other than the swap and a 2” lift, the truck is otherwise stock. The power is absolutely incredible with this high output 6.0!

 

Great job, looks fantastic. Keep an eye out on your intake air temps. I was running an open element at one point and the IATs in the summer were 160+. I definitely felt a drop in performance with the timing being pulled.

 

I have power everywhere. Key kicks the starter. Need to prime the engine before starting. But I have an issue. The hazards come on as soon as I go to key on. There is no alarm horn but I’m assuming immobilizer. I have the inertia switch jumped. Key fob will lock and unlock doors. No alarm light flashing in dash. And FP a is not being told to turn on. Any thoughts? Thanks!

 

Better pic of current status.

 

Thank you! You and I actually chatted in the comments of one of your YouTube videos revelry.

I will definitely do that, thanks for the tip. I’m going to tune it for speed density / map and get rid of the maf altogether. Once I do that I will add a bend where the filter is currently and run the filter down lower, possibly behind the bumper.

I have a stage 2 BTR truck cam but am fighting the urge to install it. This lq9 is already much more than this trans wants or needs. Lol!

 

Man this sounds just like inertia switch… Are you certain it’s jumped correctly? I would almost undo the jump, push the tripped switch, and try to crank it again. Remember the key cycle sequence for after the switch has been triggered.

 

agree. I’ve gotten the alarm lights flashing on the dash so I know it’s not the alarm. Behavior is def like the inertia switch. I bought this with no motor and the inertia was in a box. So I’ll try that. This is my first Rover. What’s the magic key sequence? Thanks!

 

Nothing crazy but this method has always worked for me: reset the switch, cycle the key forward to light up the cluster, then back off, remove the key from ignition, close the door, lock the vehicle, unlock and try to start it. I’ve had to do this twice on one occasion.