Discovery 2 LS Conversion
#1401
#1402
Well damn! I hate that happened to you, but I am glad you at least found the culprit...
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CPTKAOS (04-12-2023)
#1403
#1404
Awesome to hear! 100 miles on mine so far. Here's what I've still got on my to-do list...
- Retrofitting the existing airbox.
- Startup taking 2-4 seconds before engine fires. My camshaft sensor is throwing an error which affects firing order but it could also be fuel supply issues. Maybe throw in a new fuel pump.
- Vehicle speed sensor - not reading a vehicle speed on the GM ECM. Wiring appears to be spot on so it could be the conversion box that ACE provided. Might try swapping the VSS + and - wires.
- Emissions - just need to connect the purge valve. No idea where to start with the gas tank pressure wiring.
- Battery drain - Will check grounds and solder all my wiring.
- Rear main seal leak - specific issue with the LM4 aluminum block not with the swap.
- Idle issues with A/C on. Anyone else dealing with this?
- Whistling sound coming from holes in flywheel
#1405
#1406
For those folks NOT running the rover MAF, does your SPORT mode work? I have no warning lights on dash (M&S work with key on) and the MODE button does nothing. I have soldered the TPS related wires at the ECB (removed crimp connectors) with no change. Voltage is never less than 13.8
If you put the truck in low range, and push the mode button, does the manual light work? If not, then it appears that the button is the issue.
#1407
The sport and manual lights should work regardless if the MAF is plugged in. Since the M/S lights come on with key on, it sounds like your mode button might be broken or stuck.
If you put the truck in low range, and push the mode button, does the manual light work? If not, then it appears that the button is the issue.
If you put the truck in low range, and push the mode button, does the manual light work? If not, then it appears that the button is the issue.
#1408
The sport and manual lights should work regardless if the MAF is plugged in. Since the M/S lights come on with key on, it sounds like your mode button might be broken or stuck.
If you put the truck in low range, and push the mode button, does the manual light work? If not, then it appears that the button is the issue.
If you put the truck in low range, and push the mode button, does the manual light work? If not, then it appears that the button is the issue.
#1409
Brady’s had a shifter surround with the button for $25 clams. And it WORKS!! I also scored a rover throttle body to rob the cam off of. Got that mounted tonight. Need to move the throttle cable holder and see how it all works. Woot!
#1410
SPort mode plus early trans computer is a major improvement. Highly recommend. I also determined the the ls throttle body cable cam is not even close to the right ratio for the pedal. The most I could get out of that combo was 56% throttle. Got a Rover throttle body, robbed one of the cable cams off of it, drilled and tapped the LS cam so I could bolt it on and it's perfect. 99% throttle achieved.. There was also a suggestion made here or maybe on the FB page about smoothing out the IAC port inside the throttle body to reduce the air noise coming through the intake. This isnt really necessary. You can just use the idle stop screw to crack the blade open more. The computer will adjust to its set RPM by using less bypass air (IAC) since it's getting more air with the blade cracked. Works like a charm.