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For those of you pulling the engine harness so you can send it in for the wiring service... any tips on how to pull the wires from under the glove box through the firewall? There are 5 bundles that need to be passed through.
Thinking about heating it up slightly with a heat gun to get it more pliable but don't want to damage anything while passing it into the engine bay.
To do the modification to the Rover harness in general, it has to be pulled out. It is extremely simple and nothing should need to be heated up. Disconnect the plugs from the Rover computer. Pull the grommet and feed the 4 plugs through. The 5th connector, C0637, does not come out with the engine harness.
^ What he said, I just sent mine off yesterday. Once the boot is out they fed through in 30 seconds just wiggling etc. Have another look perhaps and see if one is caught on something?
Thanks guys, I was totally overthinking it. Was tryin to pull the wires through the grommet itself rather than just popping the grommet out of the firewall and pulling it with the harness.
Noticed the engine harness and a few of the other harnesses running through the bay are looking beat up.
Ace, your wiring service doesn’t by chance include new looms and electric tape on the harness we send in does it?
Thanks guys, I was totally overthinking it. Was tryin to pull the wires through the grommet itself rather than just popping the grommet out of the firewall and pulling it with the harness.
Noticed the engine harness and a few of the other harnesses running through the bay are looking beat up.
Ace, your wiring service doesn’t by chance include new looms and electric tape on the harness we send in does it?
I plan to do a good build walk through with photos and details but so far did want to give a couple updates on using an LM4 motor.
The oil pan when stock has a hole for the dipstick, when you change to the recommended pan, it does not. This means you must drill the block with a 3/8" drill bit directly into the flange made to be drilled for this very reason. Then one step up (not more) from that size half way down the hole or so to allow room for the o-ring to sit without it being ripped up a bit (ask how I know). This was MUCH less scary than it sounds and it's blatantly obvious where to drill and at what angle.
As far as I can see now I seem to have a return-less style fuel rail on this 04 model Trail Blazer EXT motor, one year older and I might not have. However that means I also have the fly by wire throttle body which I'm searching local yards to replace for cheap.
QUESTIONS:
-I see the recommended PSI wiring harness but there's quite a few details on drop down menus before ordering and I don't know which exactly to use....... so I STILL haven't ordered.
-I know I can use a $35 dollar ECU from a RED/BLUE silverado 1500 but I'll need to have it sent out and programmed? Where is the file to give to someone to program it?
A. If I use the $200 dollar PSI brand recommended ECU instead of a junk yard, will it be programmed already or will I have to spend the same money to program it somewhere anyway? I notice there's some options in the drop down menu and again don't know exactly which to choose, I figure if I was to choose the right one it'd be programmed already then? Or is there something further that must be custom?
As far as the ECU goes, you can get a junkyard one but there are a couple of things you need to make sure it has. Mainly the DBC. See LT1swap.com for identifying a DBC ECU.
As far as I know there is no file. If you get a junkyard ecu, you just need to send it to someone with HP tuners to get the VATS disables and send them the specs from the ACE manual enabled during the programming.
For the wiring harness you need DBC and select T56 transmission. Select the correct maf and injector plugs and you're good to go. I feel the ECU from PSI is too expensive and you can do it much cheaper but it is a one stop shop.
Thank you! I'll have a look at this later today, I've got a crane arriving on my jobsite in an hour.
I intend on buying a harness, usually I'd do everything possible myself but in this case, I want it to look/fit nice and finding a good shape harness used hasn't been something I've had much luck with locally. Plus I want the ECU in the preferred position which the purchased model would do.
Thank you! I'll have a look at this later today, I've got a crane arriving on my jobsite in an hour.
I intend on buying a harness, usually I'd do everything possible myself but in this case, I want it to look/fit nice and finding a good shape harness used hasn't been something I've had much luck with locally. Plus I want the ECU in the preferred position which the purchased model would do.
I definitely don't blame you. I was lucky a buddy was parting an 04 Express 5.3 and I got the engine, harness, and ECU together. I reworked both my harnesses myself.
The LS harness was a pretty big task but i definitely learned a lot. I retaped and wrapped everything back in loom. It does look pretty good. I'm hoping to get my ECU inside the glove box also but we'll see how that goes.
