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Hmm, good info fellas, let's just keep working these details out and passing along info. We're close to having a fairly decent write-up thread between us all here.
Hi everyone! Thank you for all the awesome input in this thread. I would like some honest feedback on Alternative Conversion Engineering's conversion kit for the LS swap. I have been in communication with ACE through email and it has been professional. I am about to spend a lot of money with them and I hope to get some positive feedback for some of you that have experienced their product and service after the sell. Thank you in advance.
Hmm, good info fellas, let's just keep working these details out and passing along info. We're close to having a fairly decent write-up thread between us all here.
The info probably needs to be split into other threads. It’ll become impossible to find when buried in this thread.
Interesting update on the cruise control, I looped the wire back an inch and put a similar clamp on it, this effectively did the same thing but I suspect we both have a bunch of slack that forms on the food pedal driven side when the cruise control takes over. I guess it doesn't matter, it's a little goofy though. Nice to see your setup, it's a bit cleaner using the supplied plastic piece. STILL my cruise control never has worked, neither has the horn and I suspect that might be related, the horn fuse when applied turns the horn on, the buttons on the wheel are probably dead, yet again Land Rover couldn't do a simple task. lol
If this thing was going to be wheeled in serious stuff (which discos aren't) then I'd be worried about sticks, debris and such getting into the wheel and possibly taking out the position sensor but as it since now, not too concerned. As for water concerns, those are easily addressed if you simply want to waterproof the sensor, not hard to do. I don't plan on being in water much past the oil pan with this thing at least for now.
-My A/C line routing is horrific, don't see any great solutions. Maybe some of you changed your setups from stock. Mine are badly kinked, I could barely charge my A/C unit as a result and I suspect it's not running as it should...
-Anyone else have to tap the gas a little for about 3 seconds to get this thing started? It will only start without throttle input when totally warm, even that's a maybe. When cold you have to baby the throttle and let off very slowly for a few seconds while it stumbles around and then runs great thereafter. Wife will hate that....... welcome to carburetor days babe!
-M&S lights mostly gone now, I got the crank position wheel sensor mostly sorted but every 10 or so starts it'll go to pending. So it's VERY close to good enough at this point.
-Power steering leak at the top of the little lock nut on the unit itself, gonna hit it with some RTV, noticed the hose is a little wet too and leaking so replacing that tomorrow. At that point this thing will be able to be driven on small trips around town and we can start seeing how she's gonna do.
Are you letting the fuel pump fully prime prior to attempting starting? That may be part of the issue. How long have you driven the rover? The GM Ecuador will need time to adjust fuel trims, idle parameters etc. usually takes approx 45-60miles.
My AC line radius was a little tighter than I would like but never gave me any issues
Also, for those inquiring about gauges. You can use a universal 2-3 pillar pod, mounted to the a pillar. I used a heat gun to form around the tweeter. Fits/looks good. I went with auto meter gauges, especially since the narrow band OEM temp gauge still seems unreliable in my mind.
I have a quick question can anyone tell me why we are still using the Land Rover mass airflow sensor
the LR ecu uses crank position, mass air flow, intake temp to help compute shift points in conjunction with the GM input/tuning. I believe the only sensor truly required is the LR crank position sensor but it may run in a modified “limp mode” without inputs from the other sensors.
For all you crazy guys like me there’s a way to convert your fuel pump I took to performance shop to make your 5.3 very happy it wants 58 to 60 psi on fuel here’s my setup corvette style regulator with bypass and aeromotive 11569 pump and a little
Modification on the factory Land Rover pump basket and lid
Are you letting the fuel pump fully prime prior to attempting starting? That may be part of the issue. How long have you driven the rover? The GM Ecuador will need time to adjust fuel trims, idle parameters etc. usually takes approx 45-60miles.
My AC line radius was a little tighter than I would like but never gave me any issues
I've yet to drive it on more than one drive of 10 minutes without a lot of starting/stopping and troubleshooting so I suppose it's had hardly any time to learn. I do give the fuel pump time to prime though. I've been hoping it's a learning related thing and not the startup tables in programming which I can't do much about so easily.
Hmm my A/C lines are visibly kinked in two spots pretty badly... kind of shocked that I get cold air even.
