Finally got the rear driveshaft after 5 weeks. Installed but may have to be shortened. It does not appear to have enough slip at the transmission to allow for the suspension to compress.


I have been putting around the driveway and pasture, and there is a lot of noise coming from the driveline. There was no excessive noise from the TC while running it without the driveshaft. I really do not know much about 4WD mechanics, but it looks like I need to learn. Suggestions are welcome.
I have hashed out a few different ideas that might be causing this:


1. Driveshaft too short, binding against Transfer Case tailshaft housing.
2. GM NPxxx transfer case is not happy running upside down or under a Brit.
3. Driveline angle too extreme.
4. Transfer case was bad from original donor car.
5. Mystery malfunction I have no knowledge of or ability to correct.
6. Two or more of the above in tandem.


Other than this setback, the GM 5.3 L all aluminum motor is purring like a kitten. No codes related to the engine. Speedo and tach working. Climate control working (AC hoses not hooked up yet). Oil pressure light functioning as original. Not sure about traction control yet, but it should work as original. I don't see any way to make the original Temp gauge function. It is a PWM signal from the ECM. I suppose it is as useful now, not hooked up as it was in factory working condition. I am using an Ultra Gauge for the coolant temp readout. The GM motor has a sensor that is used by its computer, but it will only drive GM gauges. I have not hooked up the "Charge Indicator" light on the dash yet. I need to do some more research on the GM systems. They have several different ways of driving the idiot light. I am somewhat gun shy about just hooking it up to something and see what catches on fire. I can always set an alarm on the UG for low voltage.


Stay tuned for more to come.
The final write-up will summarize the whole project, and make suggestions for your project.

 

great. just about there. an electrical fire would suck, especially at this point.

 

How have I missed this!? You are right down the road from me. Awesome build! Whenever it's time to test her off road, I would love to tag along. When I had a D2, I always wanted to do this, but never did. Now with a D1, I imagine it would be a bit easier than yours. My brother in law is currently in the end stages of putting a 5.3 LSX into a nice blue 69 Camaro along with a 5 speed manual. He is hoping to get close to 30mpg. They are great motors. Good luck and I'm definitely subscribed.

 

Thanks for the support! If you have some mad skills and 4WD construction knowledge please pay me a visit. Bring your brother -in-law along, he might like to see my LS1 '67 Camaro and LS1 '77 Corvette. I will be out of pocket until next week, death in the family. PM me if you want to visit.




Dusty, Thanks for the kind words. I feel like you have had my back through this whole ordeal.

 

Ok, it looks like choice number (6) two or more problems in tandem.
Driveshaft is definitely too short for this TC. (Choice 1)
Oil being pumped out the vent line in a steady stream is not a good sign. (Choice 2) also, Possible cause is (Choice 4)


So, backup and regroup. I have now pulled the electronic TC and installed a full time AWD unit from a 2002 Yukon Denali.
A glimmer of hope arises and guess what, the drive shaft that was too long for the Envoy TC is just right for the Denali TC. Serendipity!


I am now waiting on the front drive shaft (anything less than 5 weeks will be a win). However, the major difference in the TC will require a complete redesign of the exhaust routing on the right side and also the crossover. I think the transmission cross member I built will also have to be slightly modified. This will be better in the long run, since the front drive shaft will now be lower, a better angle and away from the transmission pan kick-out.


In case you haven't guessed by now, it appears obvious that the major hurdles in the swap arise out of the transmission and 4WD aspects. The engine swap is an involved undertaking but fairly straight forward. I will address this some more in the wrap up if I ever get there.

 

I thought new process transfer cases could be clocked, maybe just the ones used in fords.

 

A deep learning experience for me on these transfer cases. Both the ones I have are not clockable without some modifications.
The one from the Denali is a 6 bolt pattern and it LOOKS like you could rotate it to any of 6 positions. But, the way it is drilled (Not symmetrical) it will only line up one way on all six studs. I removed 2 of the studs, and turned it almost 180 deg and got 4 bolts to line up. Some of the weight is resting on the LR rear cross member, but it is leaking oil out of the gasketed connection to the tailshaft.

 

too bad, i will be waiting for the chapter

 

I know what you're thinking about my choice of drive line builders. I'm thinking the same thing. He has always done a great job for me in the past, but this time I think he has gotten behind on his work and is making mistakes. I have a new shop in mind, but I had to stay with this one because he sold my used Rover front drive shaft to one of his customers, so I feel obligated to see it to the end.


How ironic is it that the ONLY thing I farm out on this project is the drive shaft construction and balance, and that goes south!


On the same subject, I took my Corvette wheels to get balanced after I installed TPMS (Temp and pressure sensors) and the shop said one of the tires was bad and he couldn't balance it. I said "No it aint" and I went across the street to the Quick oil change/tire en-ji-neer shop and they balanced it with no problems. But I digress.... now you understand why I do all my own work whenever possible. Sorry for the rant.

 

I spent $3K paying someone else to diagnose the "tick" under the hood just to have my wife Google it...probably from this forum. I do my own work now too...with her help