Here We Go Again, My LSX Swap Thread
#161
Some idling on that tank, working on AC, but not excessive. Probably just a lead foot sucking gas out of the tank. The difference in the acceleration and power on tap with this new engine is amazing.
#162
Nice conversion Shade Tree. I have a few questions for you.
Does the ABS work still?
Do the 3 amigos pop up?
Did you get the factory aircon working?
Any issues with the traction control system?
The BMW boys have figured out how to get the tacho and temp gauge working via the obd2 diagnostics and can bus. BMW and the disco 2 are close relatives. That bodes well for conversions like yours.
Does the ABS work still?
Do the 3 amigos pop up?
Did you get the factory aircon working?
Any issues with the traction control system?
The BMW boys have figured out how to get the tacho and temp gauge working via the obd2 diagnostics and can bus. BMW and the disco 2 are close relatives. That bodes well for conversions like yours.
#163
Nice conversion Shade Tree. I have a few questions for you.
Does the ABS work still?
Do the 3 amigos pop up?
Did you get the factory aircon working?
Any issues with the traction control system?
The BMW boys have figured out how to get the tacho and temp gauge working via the obd2 diagnostics and can bus. BMW and the disco 2 are close relatives. That bodes well for conversions like yours.
Does the ABS work still?
Do the 3 amigos pop up?
Did you get the factory aircon working?
Any issues with the traction control system?
The BMW boys have figured out how to get the tacho and temp gauge working via the obd2 diagnostics and can bus. BMW and the disco 2 are close relatives. That bodes well for conversions like yours.
Sorry for the delay, driving across the country on vacation. Stayed in Moab, Utah last night... what an amazing place!
ABS, Traction control, Speedo, Tach, Factory Air all working correctly!
Three Amigos .. kinda.. M & S Lights flash constantly because the factory transmission is sitting on the shop floor. I have been unable to get them to go away. All wires shown in the Rave diagram that go to these lights have been un-hooked at one time or another, and NOTHING will make them go out. I covered them with black tape and moved on.
No easy way to make the factory temp gauge work even if you really wanted it to. Using ultra gauge for that right now.
I am ditching the LR transmission oil cooler in favor of an after market unit. I am also building a 4L60E with HD Racing clutches Still doing some highway testing of the transfer case. Off road slow speed it works fine upside down, above 70 mph it makes some noise (may be normal).
#164
That's a great result ST. I don't think many people have done what you did as they would be put off by all the electronics of the D2.
If you can get your hands on a hawkeye or similar, you can switch off the auto transmission in the BECM so then it will default to thinking it's a manual. Bye bye flashing M & S lights.
Have you tried tapping in a LR spec coolant sensor on your GM engine and wiring it to your old LR ECM (ECU)? That would surely work.
I'm going a different route with mine: 347ci SBF with '93 EECIV, ZF4HP24 box running original D2 electronics. Both EECIV and LR Motronic running side by side hopefully. Anyway, that's for a new thread, this is yours.
If you can get your hands on a hawkeye or similar, you can switch off the auto transmission in the BECM so then it will default to thinking it's a manual. Bye bye flashing M & S lights.
Have you tried tapping in a LR spec coolant sensor on your GM engine and wiring it to your old LR ECM (ECU)? That would surely work.
I'm going a different route with mine: 347ci SBF with '93 EECIV, ZF4HP24 box running original D2 electronics. Both EECIV and LR Motronic running side by side hopefully. Anyway, that's for a new thread, this is yours.
#165
That's a great result ST. I don't think many people have done what you did as they would be put off by all the electronics of the D2.
If you can get your hands on a hawkeye or similar, you can switch off the auto transmission in the BECM so then it will default to thinking it's a manual. Bye bye flashing M & S lights.
Have you tried tapping in a LR spec coolant sensor on your GM engine and wiring it to your old LR ECM (ECU)? That would surely work.
I'm going a different route with mine: 347ci SBF with '93 EECIV, ZF4HP24 box running original D2 electronics. Both EECIV and LR Motronic running side by side hopefully. Anyway, that's for a new thread, this is yours.
If you can get your hands on a hawkeye or similar, you can switch off the auto transmission in the BECM so then it will default to thinking it's a manual. Bye bye flashing M & S lights.
Have you tried tapping in a LR spec coolant sensor on your GM engine and wiring it to your old LR ECM (ECU)? That would surely work.
I'm going a different route with mine: 347ci SBF with '93 EECIV, ZF4HP24 box running original D2 electronics. Both EECIV and LR Motronic running side by side hopefully. Anyway, that's for a new thread, this is yours.
#166
Really awesome result. I have been following this thread for a long time in hopes of furthering my old om617 project. Thanks for such detailed posts. The electronics issue in our trucks is a real pain. Glad you have surmounted almost all of them.
Sorry for the delay, driving across the country on vacation. Stayed in Moab, Utah last night... what an amazing place!
ABS, Traction control, Speedo, Tach, Factory Air all working correctly!
Three Amigos .. kinda.. M & S Lights flash constantly because the factory transmission is sitting on the shop floor. I have been unable to get them to go away. All wires shown in the Rave diagram that go to these lights have been un-hooked at one time or another, and NOTHING will make them go out. I covered them with black tape and moved on.
No easy way to make the factory temp gauge work even if you really wanted it to. Using ultra gauge for that right now.
I am ditching the LR transmission oil cooler in favor of an after market unit. I am also building a 4L60E with HD Racing clutches Still doing some highway testing of the transfer case. Off road slow speed it works fine upside down, above 70 mph it makes some noise (may be normal).
ABS, Traction control, Speedo, Tach, Factory Air all working correctly!
Three Amigos .. kinda.. M & S Lights flash constantly because the factory transmission is sitting on the shop floor. I have been unable to get them to go away. All wires shown in the Rave diagram that go to these lights have been un-hooked at one time or another, and NOTHING will make them go out. I covered them with black tape and moved on.
No easy way to make the factory temp gauge work even if you really wanted it to. Using ultra gauge for that right now.
I am ditching the LR transmission oil cooler in favor of an after market unit. I am also building a 4L60E with HD Racing clutches Still doing some highway testing of the transfer case. Off road slow speed it works fine upside down, above 70 mph it makes some noise (may be normal).
#167
Sorry for the delay, driving across the country on vacation. Stayed in Moab, Utah last night... what an amazing place!
ABS, Traction control, Speedo, Tach, Factory Air all working correctly!
Three Amigos .. kinda.. M & S Lights flash constantly because the factory transmission is sitting on the shop floor. I have been unable to get them to go away. All wires shown in the Rave diagram that go to these lights have been un-hooked at one time or another, and NOTHING will make them go out. I covered them with black tape and moved on.
No easy way to make the factory temp gauge work even if you really wanted it to. Using ultra gauge for that right now.
I am ditching the LR transmission oil cooler in favor of an after market unit. I am also building a 4L60E with HD Racing clutches Still doing some highway testing of the transfer case. Off road slow speed it works fine upside down, above 70 mph it makes some noise (may be normal).
ABS, Traction control, Speedo, Tach, Factory Air all working correctly!
Three Amigos .. kinda.. M & S Lights flash constantly because the factory transmission is sitting on the shop floor. I have been unable to get them to go away. All wires shown in the Rave diagram that go to these lights have been un-hooked at one time or another, and NOTHING will make them go out. I covered them with black tape and moved on.
No easy way to make the factory temp gauge work even if you really wanted it to. Using ultra gauge for that right now.
I am ditching the LR transmission oil cooler in favor of an after market unit. I am also building a 4L60E with HD Racing clutches Still doing some highway testing of the transfer case. Off road slow speed it works fine upside down, above 70 mph it makes some noise (may be normal).
#168
#169
#170
I like the aftermarket temp gauge setup, sweet.
I probably won't spend that much time making a custom housing, I am still leaning toward the Dakota Digital VHX gauge pod...it's only money!
Mine is not an LS2 motor, some of the parts are from the 6.0 liter Yukon Denali, but the motor I used is a 5.3 liter LM4 all aluminum block. It is the same motor used in the Chevrolet SSR Retro Trucks.
There are some pics sprinkled through this thread, mostly with the engine covers on. I'll get some more and post soon.
Good news is, I got the third transmission installed and have begun testing it. The first two were junkyard units with too many miles to count. The first one failed after I changed the fluid. The second failure was probably my own doing, the Land Rover quick connect hose for the cooler blew off on the interstate in rush hour traffic with no place to pull over for about 2 miles. Lost 3rd and 4th gears. The LR trans. cooler and quick connect hoses are now in the scrap heap where they belong.
I installed a huge aftermarket cooler and custom lines. I rebuilt one of the failed 4L60E's (Maybe a 4L65E), using a race kit with heavy duty clutches.
This is the first automatic transmission I have ever built, I guess we'll see just how many shade tree skills I have. I also am installing a transmission temp. gauge, not very fancy, just useful. I am disappointed that the UltraGauge does not display the transmission temperature from the GM serial buss, would have saved a lot of trouble.
Yeah I know, PICTURES!!!!
I probably won't spend that much time making a custom housing, I am still leaning toward the Dakota Digital VHX gauge pod...it's only money!
Mine is not an LS2 motor, some of the parts are from the 6.0 liter Yukon Denali, but the motor I used is a 5.3 liter LM4 all aluminum block. It is the same motor used in the Chevrolet SSR Retro Trucks.
There are some pics sprinkled through this thread, mostly with the engine covers on. I'll get some more and post soon.
Good news is, I got the third transmission installed and have begun testing it. The first two were junkyard units with too many miles to count. The first one failed after I changed the fluid. The second failure was probably my own doing, the Land Rover quick connect hose for the cooler blew off on the interstate in rush hour traffic with no place to pull over for about 2 miles. Lost 3rd and 4th gears. The LR trans. cooler and quick connect hoses are now in the scrap heap where they belong.
I installed a huge aftermarket cooler and custom lines. I rebuilt one of the failed 4L60E's (Maybe a 4L65E), using a race kit with heavy duty clutches.
This is the first automatic transmission I have ever built, I guess we'll see just how many shade tree skills I have. I also am installing a transmission temp. gauge, not very fancy, just useful. I am disappointed that the UltraGauge does not display the transmission temperature from the GM serial buss, would have saved a lot of trouble.
Yeah I know, PICTURES!!!!