we used to use them in wreckers all the time, pump the pedal and hit the solenoid button.
you could pull anything without the wrecker moving.
I don't know why you would want a fragile bypass built in, because yes that would cause problems.
you simply want a soleniod to hold pressure once you have established it with the pedal.

 

AC is working fine, but it is currently controlled by the Rover pressure switch rather than the GM computer.


I am still working on that problem, although it is not of highest priority since it does work.
To recap that situation, I installed the GM 3-wire (high/low) pressure switch in the AC hose block where I thought it was on the original GMC Envoy.
The hose block I used (it's mounted right on the side of the compressor) is from a Chevy Silverado, the Envoy hose and block was not available from the local auto parts store. I think the problem lies somewhere between having the wrong hose block (the pressure switch tap might be in the wrong side) and/or having the wrong pressure switch for that block. Some of the GM vehicles are wired with a two wire sensor and some use a 3-wire, my computer was wired with a 3-wire connector but the hose block I have may be for a 2-wire switch.... are you completely confused yet?




Anyway, the GM computer controlled setup will be much better and protect the compressor, I just need to install the switch in the right place and maybe that will fix it. The way that it is hooked up now is probably just jumpered so the compressor and fans come on as soon as you crank up (or hit the snowflake).


The General allows for much more control over the fans on/off delay start temp on temp off speed on speed off and other stuff, you get the idea.

 

Pictures.........
Transmission Temp Gauge installed
Had to fab up a replacement grill, 15 year old plastic original went south.
New transmission cooler hides behind the new grill.
Plastic rear step cover bit the dust on a trip through a deep ditch in my back yard. Fabbed up a new aluminum tread plate cover.

 

i like your grill nice work

 

Thanks, it's 1" round aluminum tubing and 2" aluminum angle. It went together really quick. I thought it was going to be a first attempt/rough draft, but it turned out to be good enough to just go with it.


I think I am almost ready to invest in a 2" lift. I need a little more clearance between the front axle and the oil pan. Any suggestions?
I probably need new shocks and springs at the same time, I suspect I have some sag in the front causing a deterioration in the axle clearance.
Or it might just be a 5.3 Liter Chevy motor not intended for that chassis.
I don't have any weights of the original motor versus the LM4 (all aluminum), just guessing I'll say the Chevy motor comes in a little heavier and that adds to the sagging.

 

Oh, by the way. Please notice the vehicle tag in the picture of the rear bumper step. For now, we can still say "God Bless America" in Alabama.

 

Damn buddy that looked like a pain in the ***...but it is awsome!!!! post a video of the thing when you get a chance..

 

Hi im doing a similar swap on my 02 disco. Im swapping in an all aluminum L33 with a 4L65 tranny. Should be up and running in 2 weeks. Will be taking it to the muffler shop tomorrow for some custom headers and magnaflow mufflers. Im building mine for the sand dunes here in AZ. Goodluck on your build.

 

Tell us about your choice of transfer case, that was the biggest trouble spot for me.


I was close to having to go the custom header route, but I kept grinding on the left exhaust manifold (from an F-Body) and finally got it in there. I cut the flange off the outlet and welded on a 45 deg turn. I'm too much of a tightwad to pay somebody to build my truck (or cars). The GM manifold fit just fine on the right side.... plenty of room over there.


Are you going with an LS intake or did you get the truck manifold to fit?


Good Luck!

 

There are several options out there. I opted for a Terrafirma Medium 2" Lift.

Oh and shocks and springs are what lift the truck, so.....