Since ACE is no longer selling kits; and the place in Ohio isn’t even returning phone calls....where do we turn?

I have spent the last year and a half rebuilding, and replacing parts on my 2000 D2 4.0.

from window regulators to breaks / rotors; I even learned how to rebuild the electric door locks. Most recently a fresh water pump....even a couple of things I have in boxes that I have not had time to install yet.....and I just put $1,000 in new Kumho tires on the damned thing.

I was just about finished chasing away the gremlins....

then I wake up this past week to white exhaust pouring from the *** of my disco....almost assuredly I’ve fallen prey to the 177K head gasket demon....at 175k miles (how convenient).....

so....obviously it’s a tear down to find out if it’s JUST the gaskets, or the liner has slipped; with my luck it will be the liner....because my luck sucks ***, I am expecting the later.

while I hope and pray that it’s only the HG....I am expecting the worst. So where do I turn? Do I find a used D2 motor, and pray for the best; find a rebuilt....and pray for the best? Do I stick a sign on it....and pray for the best?

Is there now ANY option for a reliable, fully integrated, and reasonably priced engine swap....?

Doc

 

really....nobody?

 

Toddco makes a top-hat, head stud, high performance 340hp 5.0 bored and stroked 4.6 for $6500.
Turner makes a less powerful 4.6 with tophats and head studs for $7500.
Cheaper than an LS engine swap with great reveiws.
I'm currently rebuilding my cracked 4.6 in a 4.0 block(4.0 is not immune to issues, but has less than 03/04 4.6).
4.0/4.6 blocks are the same, only crank and rods(stroke)give the extra displacement.
I have around $3500 in just engine parts(0 labor, I'm doing the work), so the above prices for a complete engine with a warranty aren't bad.

 

Atlantic British I believe still sells long blocks to ready to go

 

Slipped liner isn't common reason for fog, milkshake or loud exhaust, old head gaskets are. Only takes one overheat during it's life to stretch a head bolt just enough. What type of coolant is in it and when was the last time it was flushed and all replaced? Strip it down and lets see what ya got. Slipped liner will usually but not always tick and increase with revs. Run your fingernail across the liner/block seam and if you can't feel it catch you don't have a slipped liner. If that's the case have the heads milled (insurance) and slap em back on with new hg's and bolts. Blown head gaskets and Rovers aren't unicorns, they exist and thrive.

 

I live down the road from the guy doing the swaps. I would not waste my money on that. He takes a 4.8L vortec out of a s10 or something then modifies the engine to adapt to the Bosch fuel injection and accept all the sensors so everything in the dash works. You get modified hell with this package. Probably was ok before all the newest LS packages were out and the prices were high. He told me to budget $15K to get the truck modified. Way to much for a frankenstien’d engine

im doing my 04 Disco now. Donor truck is a 2012 Suburban with the 5.3LS and a 6L80 transmission. Not for the weak at heart and I have some pro help but I have owned 6 of these trucks on and off. the engine and the constant code throws with the amigos backing up that check engine light is too much to deal with for a daily driver. I have one i put a snowplow on for personal use but I invested $2k into the engine to make it reliable enough to run around town but you can’t trust that engine. Certainly the weak point.

there are guys with kits for most of the mods needed for this installation. Just have to piece it together.

 

I'd be inclined to do as others here have suggested, pull the heads and check to see if the liner has actually moved, then do a valve job and use new head bolts and gaskets. If a liner has moved, get a short block 4.0 from AB or someone else and start over. I would be very unsure about the LS conversion for a reliable daily driver unless you have a lot of assistance for the transmission, transfer case and electronics. Modern vehicles are not as easy to reliably modify as the pre computer age ones...

 

Liners can move all day without any symptoms but a tick. Generally as noted it is an issue on truck that are run hot all the time, which is easy to do if you depend on the temp gauge. It takes about 8 hours to tear everything apart bag and label things and then you will know.

As to reliability these engines while by no means fire and forget are not really that bad, most aluminum engines have issues and they almost always revolve around heat. Subaru and BMW to name 2, have had problems Subaru actually recommended block seal be added to coolant during changes for a few years and BMW's are known for micro cracks in the heads.

 

...5.3LS and a 6L80 Transmission... is the same route I am going to follow

My question is: is there a way to use the original GM transfer case ?

What is the alternative?
1. I found a commercial offered adapter to bolt on a LT230 (from a Defender I think)
Advantage here would be that the LT230 fits from ist size very well
2. When a LT230 bolts on -- will the original Range Rover transfer case (a Borg Warner TC??) bolt on too?
3. I would like to go with the GM Transfer case that belongs to the LSx / 6L80e drivetrain…
as I need to customize the driveshafts anyway I would appretiate your thoughts on GM transfer cases coming with 6L80e...

 

I think the cost of the adapter to use the LT230 ends up evening out. can use the stock mounting points and mounts, I wouldn't use a Borg Warner. I believe the issue with Gm t-cases is finding a pass drop one for the front and then the rear output will be off center from the rear diff so then potential more driveline issues than just buying new shafts. If using the LT230 with the adapter the drive shafts would not need to be modified to my knowledge (I'd upgrade from the stock ones however but minimal changes to the lengths).