I just bought my third Range Rover I'm hoping this string will help out others, since these are probably common issues. I have a good set of tools, and generally do my own tune-ups, but this is the first time I've had these issues with a RR:

1) There's a constant but subtle tapping sound coming from the engine compartment that is not quite a knock, sounds like a valve issue, or perhaps not enough oil pressure...

2) There's a related sound coming from the manifold area, and I can feel the air being burped past the linkage between the muffler and manifold.

The two sounds combined make the truck sound like an '75 F150 that's been poorly maintained. Both sounds are fairly constant, varying only slightly with acceleration/deceleration, but become more faint once the engine is warmed up.

3) The Oil Light is on, and stays on except when the engine is under load, as in 1st gear or starting up-hill. As soon as I release pressure from the accelerator, the light comes on again. I have changed the oil and filter, but have not flushed the engine yet. I suspect a moderate clog in the pick-up tube.

4) Finally the engine nears choking when left idling for too long, and then hesitates off the line. I have to put it in neutral at stop lights...

I have theorized that there is a high probability that I need to pull the oil pan and check the oil pump/pick-up tube>> does anyone have a schematic/advice on location and tear-down/rebuild of the oil pump? .

I also plan to replace the air and fuel filters, and will replace the spark plugs and distributor cap next. I think this will solve some of the power/erratic idling/choking problems, but I wonder if there is anything else I can do in addition.

Any additional prognosis/recommendations would be highly appreciated.

 

I always start witht the easy fixes .....

Re: oil light. Start with replacing the sensor - and checking the wires from it. It's a simple fix. I'm on my 3rd RR and had that happen recently [ignored it for 2 years] and have been told it is a common malady.

Re: sputtering. Check all the vacuum hoses going to the stepper motor. Sounds like the idle needs to be reset. Also, how long has it been since the ignition wires were changed?

Can't help you with the tapping.

 

Thanks for the reply,

I tested the sensor with a multimeter, it seems okay. I have also reset the idle, which has significantly improved the overall running no more stalling/choking out. I also used carb cleaner on the stepper motor and related air assemblies.

The only drawback is the trumpet of an air intake that produces a low-pitch whistle at idle. I'm slowly adjusting the idle screw to decrease the noise, but I don't want to over-do it as the rover will then want to start stalling again.

Now that all of that's all fixed up, I have taken the rover on a couple of longer trips, and I've noticed it overheats/boils the coolant . I'm hoping this might be remedied by reverse-flushing the coolant system and renewing the oil pump (the water-pump seems to function well, and all of the belts are properly tightened).

Any further advice?

 

I'm also replacing the thermostat and cleaning the oil sump.

 

I re-built the oil pump and installed a thermostat (there wasn't one in place when I removed the housing), and took the rr for a test drive of about 6-8 minutes. The Oil light was still on, and stayed on the whole time.

The other day I was testing the rr, and the coolant actually boiled over from the expansion tank. Luckily, it did it right as I got home, just as I had finished parking (hmm...).

No boiling over of the coolant after today's short run, but I'm not convinced. The engine compartment was really hot, esp the radiator and the top/main hose supplying the thermostat. I'm concerned about the aluminum engine and steel-sleeve issue I've been reading about.

Any suggestions?

 

Really, anyone???