Hey guys...

Got another problem with the Rover. I think the key fob battery has beengetting low because I have not been unable to us it to lock and unlock the Rover. For a couple weeks it has worked intermittently but I would have to reprogram it from time to time. From the best I can remember, I ran into the grocery store and actually locked the Rover by inserting the key into the lock but not using the remote fob. I come out and unlock with the key and open the door and the alarm goes off and of course when I insert the key into the switch to crank I get "Engine Disabled" and "Press Remote". The remote is warn and I have been meaning to replace it, but will get it to flash at times, but no luck unlocking the superlock. Are there any alternatives or ways to get my Rover going without taking it to the dealership. The Land Rover tech told me to disconnect the negative lead from the battery for a while then reconnect and maybe this would reset the computer, but this did not help. Will this require a scanner to reset and should a local import shop be able to handle this with the proper equipment. The nearest dealership is over 200 miles away and had rather not pay that tow bill if possible, nor get raped by the dealership.

Any and all help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Michael

 

without a working remote to mobilize the engine you will need the t4 diagnostic system to force the alarm system to remobilize the engine management system.

 

Just fyi, I disconnected the negative lead to the battery and left it off overnight and thankfully the computer reset and I was able to get my Rover going. As soon as I connected the negative lead the security system engaged (just as it did before) however luckily I was able to insert my key and unlock all doors as well as crank her up and driver her home. I have not tried to superlock the vehicle again as I am a little leary to be honest. I think I will replace the battery and remote buttons before I try it again.

Hope this helps someone in the future to save a tow and a heafty bill from the dealership!

Michael

 

Some one, like discoMike should gather all of this wounderful info and RR experiences and write a book, could be, "The Big Book of Range Rover Onwership"

Or, Living on the other side of "hell with a RR"

As others here, I love my RR, it's a true love story, but it will neeeever be my only vehicle, nor the one I depend on completely, at least not yet until I am able to fix everything myself.

 

so in a nut shell you are saying that p38a immobilization can be bypassed by simply disconnecting the battery overnight? and this will defeat the immobilization?
i don't believe you and i am copying to the post proof of why.

Passive Immobilisation
The following conditions will passively immobilise the
vehicle:
 30 seconds after ignition has been turned off and
the driver’s door has been opened.
 30 seconds after ignition has been turned off, the
key removed, and the driver’s door has been
opened.
 10 minutes after ignition has been turned off and
the key removed (without opening the driver’s
door).
 The handset becomes desynchronised (or with
an improperly functioning handset).
The vehicle can be mobilised by any of the following
methods:
 Turn the ignition on (The handset must be functioning
properly and within close proximity to the
key!)
 Press unlock button on the handset
 Enter EKA code
NOTE: The vehicle will remain immobilised by
attempting to turn the ignition on with the handset
detached from the key ring (or with an improperly
functioning handset).
If the handset becomes desynchronised (or is
functioning improperly), the engine will be passively
immobilised. If an attempt is made to start the
engine, the message “Engine Disabled, Press
Remote� will be displayed on the message centre. To
mobilise the engine the EKA code must be entered
and the handset (when functioning properly)
resynchronised.
Passive Immobilisation Coil (Z270)
A magnetic field is generated by the passive
Immobilisation Coil (Z270) contained in the steering
column. This field excites a receiving coil in the
handset causing it to transmit a mobilisation signal to
the BeCM. If the BeCM does not receive this signal
from the handset, the vehicle will remain
immobilised.
Handset Transmitter Resynchronisation
The Theft Alarm Unit (Z163) will remain
synchronised with the handset unless:
 The handset’s batteries have been removed.
 The vehicle’s battery has been disconnected.
NOTE: All handsets must be resynchronised when
the vehicle’s battery has been disconnected.
A handset may be resynchronised by performing a
key lock, or unlock, on either front door within 30
seconds of performing a remote lock, superlock, or
unlock function. The BeCM uses the change of state
of the CDL Switch to initiate resynchronisation.
Emergency Key Access (EKA)
EKA is used to disarm the theft alarm and mobilise
the vehicle in the event of a handset failure. This is
possible through a series of locks and unlocks with
the key in the driver’s door lock cylinder. With the
vehicle locked and the alarm armed, turn the key the
required number of times according to the following
sequence:
1. To enter the first digit, turn the key the required
number of times to the unlock position.
2. To enter the second digit, turn the key the
required number of times to the lock position.
3. To enter the third digit, turn the key the required
number of times to the unlock position.
4. To enter the fourth digit, turn the key the required
number of times to the lock position.
5. Turn the key to the unlock position to unlock the
doors, disarm the alarm, and mobilise the
vehicle.
NOTE: The key must be fully turned to the rest and
lock/unlock position each time.
After 5 wrong attempts, you must wait 10 minutes.

 

Honestly you should replace the battery to the remote and vehicle. When the vehicle battery goes the engine can become immobilized.... along with a number of other problems.

 

I just did this last night. Here is the sequence for disabling the passive immobilization:

With the key in the lock:
Lock the car 4 times (this step is often missed in explanations)
Unlock once
Lock 5 times
Unlock once
Lock 5 times

Unlock the car either with the key or the remote, and the immobilization will be disabled.

 

disconnecting the battery didnt fix the problem. you need a new remote, but more so, you need a new driver door latch. check to see if you can make the windows open and close by turning and holding the key to lock or unlock, if the global open/close does not work, then your latch is not sending the correct signal to the becm and this is why the engine is immobilized. replace the latch before you get stranded worse

 

My late husband had a p38 1998
It made him smile, it makes me cry because of the security system complexity and complications it has created with trying to sell.
Have a buyer - who has paid for it and done paperwork. we get back out to car and the thing goes into the full superlock mode, (referred to as the P38 dirty little secret in other posts i have read) yes i got to climb out window in tag place parking lot. we tried the 1515 voodoo and undoing battery tricks to no avail.
Blackbox Solutions out of UK sells a becm sync mate (you have to speficy petrol or diesel) that their video says will correct the situation. Apparently it reboots the becm. small hand held device size of key fob by photos. sells for 125 us dollars. should get in ten to 15 days.
i have ordered it to get out of nasty situation with buyer and get car off. lot. has anyone else tried this? if it works, then its worth price and sure beats having to replace becm. it appears to be a new product and sure beats towing to dealer over 100 miles away.
after our many attempts to get car in action, one of the codes which appeared is gearbox failure. i am thinking this is erratic from all the nonsense.
i need to have car towed back to my house.
can i get car in or out of gear to get onto tow truck?
any and all replies welcome and appreciated.

 

anyone have any useful ideas? Range Rover P38 1998 2.8 ,,

the other day a dropped me mate off at work and the seatbelf got caught in the door, got all the way home locked in using the key(handset doesn't work) come out a hour later and the engine disabled, ive had this problem in the past but after a hour of inputting the code using the key in the door latch it starts, but no luck this time ive been trying to imput the code for the last 3 days! but still no luck. RAC been out recharged the vechical battery still no luck but when the rac left and tried again it came up with something to do with the windows witch was easily fixed by opening and closing each window, a thought this might of been the problem but still no having nowt!!
im about to try ^ removing the - lead from the battery and hopefully this will work

ANY ADVICE PLEASE............ i cannot afford to replace parts e.g door latch, keyfob battery or take it to a garage, ive already put well over 2k into due to air suspension and tracking problems,

im afriad to say if a cant get it working its the scrap yard for me precious range! :'(