Here is a link to a pic of my 96 Rover with the spring conversion from Land Rover Parts...I guess it doesnt look higher in the front like I said earlier. What you guys think???

http://s307.photobucket.com/albums/n...rent=Rover.jpg

 

After riding around for a couple of days I have had some comments that the back end looks slightly lower than the front. I measured the back end (floor to top point on wheel well)... 31 1/2". The front was 32 3/4"... I called Land Rover Parts to talk to them about what happened and the said the mechanic might have put the springs on backwards... just like RED mentioned. So I went back to my mech and he said that he did not think they were put on backwards because athe lock collarwould not go into end of the spring... He said that he was 99% sure that they wear on right... What do you guys think I should do?

 

There should have been instructions sent with the kit. If you don't havethem, call the place you ordered it from and have them verify that the rear springs are larger than the front. Then take your baby back to your mechanic with that information.

 

I spent almost 9k in parts and labor (bags, compressor, valve, lines, etc) on a 96 4.6 at 91k trying to revive the EAS system. Not worth it. Put springs on it about 6 mos. ago and never looked back. Its not a daily driver anymore, but when needed on the weekend to haul stuff and not mess up my new one, at least it's level every time I go to use it.

 

Thanks to all for the reply's... My mech talked with Roverland Parts and they were great about making sure everything was how it needed to be. Instructions that came with package were not very good... My mech swapped the springs and now she sits nice and level... Will post some pic later...

Thanks

 

two thoughts on this one...

My 1993 EAS on the LWB RRC was sitting with a dead battery. instead of putting a new/charged battery in I tried to crank it over and POOOF, out goes the EAS. I guess the dealer can clear the code for $100 or so, but I've progressed on debugging myself since the nearest dealer is 30 minutes away and it's a big inconvenience to take it in.

Here is what I learned.... On the 93 (96 is probably similar...) I found the EAS computer brain under the passenger seat, pulled the plug on it, and made 5 jump wires from solid copper AC house wire. jump pins to turn on the compressor, let air into each corner. I found my left front leaks air over 3 days. I actually LIKE the manual mode since most of the time I want the suspension up high. I wish there was a manual mode and computer mode on these.


Search for wiring diagrams at http://rangerovers.net/repairdetails...p.html#jumpers

EAS


I printed the web site to PDF (MAC feature) file from http://rangerovers.net/repairdetails...p.html#jumpers and keep it on my MAC for reference when off the grid.... try that one...

here is text from there you can read and search on google to find if the link isn't up to date:

3. Manual Activation of EAS Valves using Jumper Wires
If your EAS system has gone into hard fault mode, but there are no leaks (eg you have replaced a leaking air bladder)
and nothing is wrong with the compressor or the valve block, you can restore normal ride height through crafty use of
jumper wires to operate the solenoid valves in the valve block manually, causing air to flow in the appropriate directions.
If the air supply is exhausted, you may first have to manually operate the compressor (see section 4 below) to fill up the
reservoir.
I would suggest removing the EAS timer/delay module first (see picture at this link) to prevent the dash lighting up like a
Christmas tree. You can then unplug the connector (designated C117 on the 4.0/4.6 and C331 on Classic EAS models) to
the EAS ECU under the left hand passenger seat (see photo art right, 4.0/4.6). Partially disassembling the connector by
unscrewing the single screw on its shell and sliding the cover off allows you to get access to the back of the pins and
read the numbers. Alternatively, on the 4.0/4.6 you can accomplish the same result using connector C152 inside the
plastic EAS enclosure for the compressor and valve block in the engine bay. (Connector C139 underneath the valve block
would be even better, as it is the least ambiguous in the circuit diagram provided in the ETM, but unfortunately it is
inaccessible without removing the entire valve block -- see valve block removal procedure).
EAS Timer Relay located under left
side of LH front seat (4.0/4.6)
ECU Connector C117 located under
front of LH front seat on 4.0/4.6 (C331
on Classic)

Good luck.

 

BTW -- when you plug the socket back in and start the car the suspension will go back to the stops. You will need to leave it unplugged. I haven't had problems leaving mine unplugged, however, I did jump the wrong PIN once and blew out some fuse that I can't find yet (not the 2 yellow ones under the seat or any on the dash). Now i use the power from the dash and jump into the power pin as well. THIS WAS ONLY NEEDED AFTER I JUMPED THE WRONG PIN...