Hello New to the Forum-

My Alarm went off for no apparent reason. It kept making weird beep every time turning key to left or right to try to shut it off-Alarm kept going off...Even after engine immobilized. Looked inside red dash light was blinking really fast. I let the car sit overnight. In the morning tried key in driver door, open no alarm went off no problem. But upon trying to start vehicle first time no sound,now it will crank but not turn over. Battery died Tuesday needed a jump from neighbor. I drove to Auto zone,they tested battery and alternator and said battery was bad. Battery replaced with Duralast. No problems,tues,wed,thurs...alarm went off Friday NOW PROBLEMS. I never had a remote when brought from owner. Everything is working just won't turnover. I do have a feeling the door handle is a bit clicky and my door lock has been loose and hard to unlock sometimes after about 20 minutes. But all this non cranking has been SINCE COLD WEATHER AND ALARM WENT OFF. Thank You

Also,
Just paid for 600 for water pump,which still seems to have a drip coming from some where as i see small coolant loss in bottle and around top&radiator hose. And a new compressor 2100$So my money is low till i can get on the road to my house clients to train them.

Oh,just learned today Auto Employee put in a 450 crank battery. I didn't notice it till a neighbor tried to jump me with his 1500 truck. Wow the battery i found was in mine was 900 cranking amps lol. How could Auto Zone tech over looked this without checking specs...Could this be the reason truck still will not turn over now that i have the correct battery installed?Any help before i have to make a trip to THE "STEALERSHIP"would be appreciated.

Thanks


Hope some one can help.
AL

 

Auto zone is trying to dodge fault on their mistake. The alarm has not gone off. But i don't have key fob to sync it. I never needed it till the battery was improperly replaced. Everything far as windows have reset but range still won't turn over. I am not sure if my actuator needs replaced or my door handle. For a month now its been hard sometimes having the lock to pop up. Sometimes taking 15 to 40 multiple turns to get it to pop. Lock portion feels real loose when key is inserted. I don't trust many of these SO CALLED RR SPECIALIST. Most of them just want your car to sit for a few days while they do diagnostics. They can tell you anything with that. You never end up just paying diagnostics! Seems like that's just to get you in...Last Diagnostic fee from AMERICAN SERVICE STATION cost me $660.00 and nothing was done! Not going through that ordeal again smh.

If i knew would portion of door i need to replace that would help. Then i could see if that eka will clear it. It seems like its still stuck in passive immobilization...What do you think? Range is 2000 hse.

Thanks for your timely response.

AL


Last current update as of Fri March 6 2015-
Update if anybody can help me with my situation.

Mechanic called Lock smith determined its not the lock or key. He was gonna have a key cut&reprogrammed.
Mechanic says;Doors unlock&lock,..Alarm can be set,alarm can be turned off...However,car still won't crank. Mechanic said code is 1673. "QUESTION"Does the Rover still think some one is trying to steal it? Mechanic said rpm is not registering. He thought it might be crank sensor but has ruled it out for now after getting the 1673 code. Another mechanic who a friend recommended works on Rovers,say's it is CAN NETWORK mode. That the computers are not communicating with each other. He say's i need it re-flashed but he doesn't have the particular software to do it. The Mechanic who has the car said his scanners won't let him communicate. He's not charging me for 3 days because he said he really didn't do anything. I am gonna give him something for his time&his techs. NOBODY WORKS FOR FREE! Any way,this place called[ROAD BRITANNIA] said they do have that software as they specialize in Rovers. Gent said price would be $115 us dollars. Do you think this is the issue?And does this price seem customary? I read a lot of info on this subject from the forums but i am just still trouble shooting at this point.

Thanks again..Hope someone can help.

AL

 

How would you get an RPM signal if it doesn't crank? What happens when you turn the key? A click? Nothing? A bunch of clicks? Or does it actually crank when you turn the key but will not start?

 

No, too low CCA wouldn't cause any damage. Not unless it cranked really slowly and you kept cranking it really slow for a long time. That could damage the starter.

 

Thanks Jafir for your help.
Everything comes on in truck far as electronics but won't start.
Although i will say the stronger batter i have does seem to have more power. Truck will crank but won't start.

AL

 

Very well could be the crankshaft sensor. Any spark at the plugs when cranking? Pretty common failure.

 

Thanks for your help Antichrist.

I only cranked it usually 3 to 4 times a every day no more than 3 seconds each. And then i wait till the next day. I am scratching my head because it just seems like its something simple to get the car started but mechanic can't resolve. I read on this forum another gent had similar symptoms with his alarm going off. He towed it to mechanic with autologic software and problem resolved in 30 min. I am not sure if he had a working key fob though. I never have had one since buying the truck from a prvt dealer 2 years ago.

Thank you

AL