I bought my 98 RR SE in June with 74.5K on it. Had it for two weeks (500 miles), wouldn't start (Gearbox Failure), got a jump, but wouldn't recharge after running. Dealer (non LR) diagnosed--dead battery--replaced free. No more problems for a while. I do not drive it much (weekends only) and it is garaged in a 750 car garage here in midtow Manhattan.

Now, on the first real cold weather month of the season (January) and with 78.5K on her, last weekend she wouldn't start, so I got a jump, and it recharged and restarted, even on a very cold morning two days later, no problem. Took it to the LR dealer for some other work...and their diagnoses--dead battery. $169.

Any reason to think there is more going on than dead battery (first dealer gave me a bad battery?) and any reason to get it replaced at the LRdealer as opposed to Sears or Autozone or something? (I have heard that the many remote/security frequencies can make the ECU go crazy and drain battery).

And how long should a battery last on a RR SE? Is there any specs I should ask for if I take it to an Autozone type place?

thanks for you help.

 

More on this....the dealer said the best battery to get is the Interstate 29H...which is basically impossible to find at a normal battery place (gas station, Midas, etc), they have to order it and it takes 2 weeks blah blah, so I just had them replace. Nothing, I repeal, nothing is easy..

 

You need to have someone clean and tighten all connections and grounds, then go have a battery/alternator load test performed at whih time you will probably find your problem.
As for a battery, you might want to consider the Optimun battery which is sold thru Interstate battery. They are a strong deep cycle battery taht have alot of punch and will also go for up to 2 years with out use and not loose their charge.
If you want more info, get back to me.
Mike

 

Okay --- you are a prime candidate for experiencing the battery drain problem seen on P-38 Range Rovers. It stems from the fact that the remote uses a carrier frequency that happens to be the same asutilized on security systems used in residential and commerical installs. Every time this signal is "seen" by the Range Rover it "wakes up" the BECM (Body ElectricalControl Module) which creates a current draw until the system goes back to "sleep". This is notnormally a problem, unless the vehicle sits fora long time between use. In that case the battery can drain down in as little as4-5 days and prevent the vehicle from having enough power in reserve ---to start.

Batteries of the type used in a car do not tolerate arepeated drain to low levels ---hence--your battery replacements. A good quality battery should last 3 years, or slightly more( dependent on climate).

The fix?

Get yourself a trickle charger, and have it hooked up to the battery when you are going to have it sitting for extended periods. What if you don't have this ability as in a airport parking garage, or "rent a space" in a commercial garage?

Sorry --- but you are up a creek. Simply disconnecting a battery cable in-between would work, except that all the systems in the vehicle would have to be re-programmed each time you re-connected the cable (radio code, windows, climate control, etc.)


Geoman
www.eurotekapg.com.

 

Or install a Deep Cycle Kellow Top that will take your Rovers abuse.
Mike

 

here's a probably stupid question...if you do not use your remote key fob while the RR sits in a garage with a bunch of cars...will the drain still happen?

And, another question, is it confirmed that the Deep Cycle Kellow Top battery will combat the big city garage battery drain issue?

 

Your truck has an high degree of discharge just sitting.
The Yellow top is a great deep cycly battey that with stand alot of sloow discharge and still fire up. Even better, if it were to go dead, it will not effect the battery ability to take a complete recharge. Most normal batterys can't handle a full dischanrge.
Mike

 

Ok, I hear you on the choice of battery, I am will use that next time around, but I am still not clear on whether taking the remote lock/unlock key fob out of the equation would help or not. am I making any sense? my logic is...not signal present to make the truck think it is still working, no battery drain. basically, when the truck is in a garage with a bunch of cars in close proximity, use the valet key.