I have a '95 Classic LWB and the power assist brakes have failed. It started about three weeks ago, I was leaving home and the power brakes did not work for about three minutes. Then a few days later, they did not work for about ten minutes. Now, no matter how long I drive, no power assist whatsoever. Brake light in dash is on. I've check the fluid, it's fine. Checked all the fuses and they are fine also. I assume my hydrolic pump has failed and I just need a replacement. Any ideas?

Other info: Truck has 106K miles on it and it gets driven almost every weekend.


Thanks,
Todd

 

I am also having some issues with my 94 RRC LWB brakes.
Start the vehicle with the hood open. Listen to the electric pump that is mounted on the tire well. mine runs for about 1-2 minutes trying to build pressure. It should stop when operating pressure has been reached.
There is a bleeder valve on the pump; you might crack that open while it is pumping up. There should be at least a little fluid ooze out.
If there is no fluid comming out and the pump never stops. You might have to replace it.
Are you loosing brake fluid? Mine went to poop when one of my front caliper seals went and it drained all the fluid from the resevoir.
It just hasen't been the same since. I am still working on mine. I will let you know what I come up with.
Oh ya, the pump is at least $200 used and I think it is close to $400 new. Let me know if you have discovered anything else.

 

Is your pump running at idle?
If so and still no brakes, there is a bladder that can fail that may be causing your problem.
So with Rover brakes, never assume, go have someone read the codes and go from there other wise you could speend big $$$$$ on unneeded parts.
Mike

 

My pump was supposedly rebuilt just before I got it.
Mine takes about a minute or so to pump up and for the light to go off after the car is parked overnight.
Another wierd thing is that it kicks the pedal back every time I apply the brakes.
Any further thoughts?

 

Still say, go get your codes read, it will just be a long frustrating process with no results till you do.
Mike

 

Mike I have already tried that one; and after owning 37 vehicles; mostly older ecotics. I have found that most places won't even touch these types of vehicles for two reasons:
1. They have never seen one like it before and don't want to look bad if they can't figure it out.
2. They can't get parts for them and don't want to.

I have taken this vehicle to several brake shops and none will even touch it.
I have also taken it to our local Land Rover Dealer and they won't touch it either.
Their reasoning is that there are only 3 Classic Dealers in the US and even they can't always get the right parts.

Same thing at the Tire Plus. I just wanted it somewhat alligned.
They said I needed tie-rod ends and wheel bearings.
"Of course I do" I laughed; and asked them to go ahead and get the necessary parts.
After an hour and a half of phone calls and e-mails; they couldn't find parts from any of thier suppliers.
I knew this before I walked in the door.
So they got it close and I told them that I would find and replace the parts and bring it back.

I had the same experience with an 83 Porsche 944 (MoneyPit34 one of the first 100 to enter the US).
I tried to get the clutch replaced and the dealer and over 15 tranny shops including a VW shop and all said no thanks.
I ended up doing it myself as with everything else.
I have the tools, the software and hardware to diagnose error codes, but this doesn't always work when codes are vague at best.
I think I just need to keep bleeding mine. They work fine; it is just that pump runs for a minute and the pedal kicks back a bit.
i will get it bled this weekend and let ya know...

 

I didn't say, take it to the local gas station type shop, hey at least they had the ***** to say they couldn't help for whatever reason.
ABS stuff need to be read for codes by one of just a couple of scanners made for that purpose, for the dealer it is called a test book.
You want to get it fixed, go where they know what your driving and get fixed. You probably did need wheel bearings and tie rod ends, bet you are too gun shy to admit it.
Stop getting burned and check out the shops in your area for a good Rover mechanic, get it fixed and go stir up some dust.
Mike

 

Yes, I understand all of this. I have the OEM shop manual and I'm a quick learner.
And I truely did then and still do know that I need to do the wheel bearings and tie-rod ends and ball joints and u-joints and an oil hose and...
I wasn't knocking their judgement.
I was pointing out that most shops don't even know where to start looking for parts; nor do they have the necessary tools to work on this particular vehicle.
Haven't gotten burned on anything that I know of. I just paid an extra $30 for 3 years unlimited allignments, so I can replace the parts and take it back to the Alignment Shop and let them Align it. I told them when I walked in that it need parts they didn't have and I just wanted to get it aimed forward because it was veering right.
As a matter of fact there are 4 tie-rod ends, a pile of bushings, sway bar ball joints, and front shocks sitting in my kitchen right now and the wheel bearings are on the way.
Please don't think the rest of us are truely that ignorant. I didn't just go to Billy Bob's Car Shop. These are either National Chains or Specialty Shops.
When all of the European Specialist Mechanics in an area of nearly 1 million people say they won't or can't work on a vehicle it's not just me.
I have spent countless hours driving from shop to shop, making phone calls, asking around and have come up with little or no info.
Also, I have looked at every major parts store imaginable for parts and there are none.
I have found Atlantic British and several other web sites to buy parts, but none can be found locally or regionally.
Between Drag Racing and Off-Roading for the last 20 years; I know when something is not right with my vehicle and I can usually call it spot on.
This just happens to be a vehicle with low enough distribution numbers that most shops wouldn't invest in the Test Book or the couple other unique tools needed to work on the old RR's.
My first reccomendation to anyone is to take a vehicle to the dealer. they know more about it than anyone, they will give you an almost exact quote and they usually have your part on-hand.
It is just strange how certain vehicles are almost forgotten or become taboo to work on.
I get by just fine. It just takes a little longer with some than others...Peace

 

Not knowing you personaly makes it hard sometimes to judge a persons back ground and experience. If you a browsed around on some fo the Rover web sites, you will see people who don't know if they are driving a D1 or D2, what to do to put their truck into 4wheel drive and whats the second gear shift **** for, I mean that is scarey to me. So please don't take my statement to you personaly, sometimes the people just need to be shaken a little when it comes to the trucks and their problem, cause they don't have a clue.
A tele # that might help you for some Rover problems would be 800,533,2210. This is the number for auto logic, Daignostics, a seller of testing devices that also acts as a locator for shops in your area that can help with some of Rovers little querks.
Hope this helps a little.
Mike

 

Oh yes, I do understand your point on that one.
Some people just shouldn't work on cars.
I worked in the computer programming/networking arena for a long time and some people get it and some just don't and never will.
It is amazing; some of the references are pretty off the wall.
Someone did just say "when I put it in 4-wheel drive it doesn't go anywhere".
I personally was wondering how they got out of 4WD; that may be the bigger issue there.
We're cool. And you are riight; there are a lot of clueless people seeking advice when they really need a good mechanic.