Just BOUGHT My First P38
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Drifting
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 31
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Avoid Forever Black on the grille, as you have heard. Even if you do all the prep work correctly, and even if you go to the extreme to get the grille cleaned and prepped, it likely will not take the dye in a smooth and consistent manner. You end up with all kinds of spots and smears.
It does look a little better than Mothers Back to Black, but not on the grille, use the Mothers it will go on smooth. It will need touched up fairly often.
I'm just going to paint my P38 grille come springtime. I fouled it with the Forever Black. I was shocked really, I've used Forever Black on a myriad of old Saabs, Jaguars, even some Jeeps and never had it come out this bad.
It does look a little better than Mothers Back to Black, but not on the grille, use the Mothers it will go on smooth. It will need touched up fairly often.
I'm just going to paint my P38 grille come springtime. I fouled it with the Forever Black. I was shocked really, I've used Forever Black on a myriad of old Saabs, Jaguars, even some Jeeps and never had it come out this bad.
But it does NOT WORK WELL on the grille?
If so, what would you think of using plasti dip on the grille? In the BMW scene, a lot of guys use this to paint their interior tidbits and some even use it to spray down stock or other "cheap" wheels. If not, what would you suggest painting? I just want it to look nice and, as it is now, it's all grey
On the matter of headlights, can anyone comment on HID4U? I read on another forum that they work without any bulb out failures: http://www.hids4u.co.uk/h4-55w-pro-m...rsion-kit.html
Maybe I'll just have to sell the xenons I bought and use these?
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,074
Likes: 2
From: CDA, ID
On my Grille the Mother's worked great, but yes you need to do it frequently. You can always paint it and then not worry about it but I have never been that bothered by it. If you are going to paint it then I would color match the bumpers and side panels to the body, I think it would look cool. I would not color match the grille though.
I looked at your link for the HID's and it looks as though they may be alright. It does mention that you may need the resistor but that cannot be that big of a deal, it looks like a good price too.
I looked at your link for the HID's and it looks as though they may be alright. It does mention that you may need the resistor but that cannot be that big of a deal, it looks like a good price too.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 468
Likes: 0
From: Myrtle Beach, SC
The reason you will need the resistor is because the HID kit only uses one of the two plugs that would normally plug directly into your h4 bulbs. On most vehicles this is no big deal because the two lights are one the same circuit. Not so on a RR. So, when you turn on the headlight switch with your hids hooked up, the becm will think there is a bulb out on the side that you didn't use. I pulled my grill and painted it with a good quality trim paint. I did the same with the front and rear bumpers. Looks great. I do like the idea of painting the bumpers and side trim pieces the same color as the body.
Mudding
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, PA
So, just to ensure I'm reading this right, Forever Black works WELL on the bumpers, side skirts/running boards, and up under the headlights?
But it does NOT WORK WELL on the grille?
If so, what would you think of using plasti dip on the grille? In the BMW scene, a lot of guys use this to paint their interior tidbits and some even use it to spray down stock or other "cheap" wheels. If not, what would you suggest painting? I just want it to look nice and, as it is now, it's all grey
On the matter of headlights, can anyone comment on HID4U? I read on another forum that they work without any bulb out failures: http://www.hids4u.co.uk/h4-55w-pro-m...rsion-kit.html
Maybe I'll just have to sell the xenons I bought and use these?
But it does NOT WORK WELL on the grille?
If so, what would you think of using plasti dip on the grille? In the BMW scene, a lot of guys use this to paint their interior tidbits and some even use it to spray down stock or other "cheap" wheels. If not, what would you suggest painting? I just want it to look nice and, as it is now, it's all grey
On the matter of headlights, can anyone comment on HID4U? I read on another forum that they work without any bulb out failures: http://www.hids4u.co.uk/h4-55w-pro-m...rsion-kit.html
Maybe I'll just have to sell the xenons I bought and use these?
I've painted quite a few grilles over the years - figured out that using Bulldog Adhesion promoter as a base coat really does work well for helping rattle can spray paint stick to the plastic. So two coats of that, then I'll use a black primer, then probably matte black spray paint.
I beat my Rover around the woods a decent bit so I'd avoid painting any surfaces that might come in contact with stuff on the trail a body color. Just asking for more maintenance. However if you are going to mostly be on the road then by all means go for that route and paint em.
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Drifting
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 31
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On my Grille the Mother's worked great, but yes you need to do it frequently. You can always paint it and then not worry about it but I have never been that bothered by it. If you are going to paint it then I would color match the bumpers and side panels to the body, I think it would look cool. I would not color match the grille though.
I looked at your link for the HID's and it looks as though they may be alright. It does mention that you may need the resistor but that cannot be that big of a deal, it looks like a good price too.
I looked at your link for the HID's and it looks as though they may be alright. It does mention that you may need the resistor but that cannot be that big of a deal, it looks like a good price too.
The reason you will need the resistor is because the HID kit only uses one of the two plugs that would normally plug directly into your h4 bulbs. On most vehicles this is no big deal because the two lights are one the same circuit. Not so on a RR. So, when you turn on the headlight switch with your hids hooked up, the becm will think there is a bulb out on the side that you didn't use. I pulled my grill and painted it with a good quality trim paint. I did the same with the front and rear bumpers. Looks great. I do like the idea of painting the bumpers and side trim pieces the same color as the body.
I would paint the bumpers body color and the grille black
In a nutshell, yes - good everywhere but the grille. Those little trim bits under the headlights that are the same material as the grill also need avoided with the Forever Black.
I've painted quite a few grilles over the years - figured out that using Bulldog Adhesion promoter as a base coat really does work well for helping rattle can spray paint stick to the plastic. So two coats of that, then I'll use a black primer, then probably matte black spray paint.
I beat my Rover around the woods a decent bit so I'd avoid painting any surfaces that might come in contact with stuff on the trail a body color. Just asking for more maintenance. However if you are going to mostly be on the road then by all means go for that route and paint em.
I've painted quite a few grilles over the years - figured out that using Bulldog Adhesion promoter as a base coat really does work well for helping rattle can spray paint stick to the plastic. So two coats of that, then I'll use a black primer, then probably matte black spray paint.
I beat my Rover around the woods a decent bit so I'd avoid painting any surfaces that might come in contact with stuff on the trail a body color. Just asking for more maintenance. However if you are going to mostly be on the road then by all means go for that route and paint em.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 468
Likes: 0
From: Myrtle Beach, SC
Installing the resistors with the hid kit is really easy. Just do an ebay search for hid resistor and a few of them will pop up. They are 9.99 for two of them. I don't know how to make a link to them. Just be sure to mount them on a metal surface. They get hot.
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Drifting
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 31
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Doing so doesn't run any risks (so long as they are tied down securely somewhere they won't melt or burn anything) right?
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Drifting
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 31
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So today is the day! Supposed to get the paperwork finalized and take delivery of the truck this evening.
Last night, I had a Range fanatic go up and check out the ride. He has restored several P38s and put together a check list of everything that will need to be done over the next 30 days, 3 months, 6 months, and year.
Major issues over the next 30 days:
- Front brakes. Rear brakes were changed out as they failed inspection and, while slightly better, the fronts aren't far behind. New pads and rotors. Any suggestions on these?
- Front air springs. The rears were changed out just last week as they were leaking heavily and, while slightly better, the fronts are starting to go. The fanatic who looked the car over said there is already a slight leak in them. I suppose ebay is best for these?
- Valve block for EAS. This wasn't fun news. It's not that there is anything wrong but, the compressor was just rebuilt a week ago, the rear springs are new, and we are changing out the fronts. Given that work, he suggests pulling the valve block and restoring it. Better to do it as a precaution than to let it fail first and be stranded.
3 months
- Tie rods and drag link. Some wiggle and, while fine, it's going to need replacement.
list goes on and on though the fanatic was very impressed with the condition and gave me the green light that it's worth picking up. But I should be picking it up this evening.
Last night, I had a Range fanatic go up and check out the ride. He has restored several P38s and put together a check list of everything that will need to be done over the next 30 days, 3 months, 6 months, and year.
Major issues over the next 30 days:
- Front brakes. Rear brakes were changed out as they failed inspection and, while slightly better, the fronts aren't far behind. New pads and rotors. Any suggestions on these?
- Front air springs. The rears were changed out just last week as they were leaking heavily and, while slightly better, the fronts are starting to go. The fanatic who looked the car over said there is already a slight leak in them. I suppose ebay is best for these?
- Valve block for EAS. This wasn't fun news. It's not that there is anything wrong but, the compressor was just rebuilt a week ago, the rear springs are new, and we are changing out the fronts. Given that work, he suggests pulling the valve block and restoring it. Better to do it as a precaution than to let it fail first and be stranded.
3 months
- Tie rods and drag link. Some wiggle and, while fine, it's going to need replacement.
list goes on and on though the fanatic was very impressed with the condition and gave me the green light that it's worth picking up. But I should be picking it up this evening.
Mudding
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, PA
I know you've been on the other forum, so for airbags/valve block contact Shupack at Rover Renovations would be my suggestion. May as well deal with an expert.
Brakes - I picked up a full set from Rovers North. I went with the Proline brand. Very pleased with the fitment and stopping power. Prices are reasonable too, much less than Genuine. It is an easy DIY job.
I did tie rods and drag link recently - I went with dealer parts due to a time crunch. IIRC the parts were less than $400 but I'll double check my invoice.
Welcome to the club! Look forward to hearing about your experiences with your new ride.
Brakes - I picked up a full set from Rovers North. I went with the Proline brand. Very pleased with the fitment and stopping power. Prices are reasonable too, much less than Genuine. It is an easy DIY job.
I did tie rods and drag link recently - I went with dealer parts due to a time crunch. IIRC the parts were less than $400 but I'll double check my invoice.
Welcome to the club! Look forward to hearing about your experiences with your new ride.
