Just BOUGHT My First P38
#21
For the front air springs I have went straight to Arnott. You can find them on eBay as well in their store and it is usually a little cheaper than their site; or call them and say you want the eBay price.
Brakes you can get from AB or almost anywhere that you can trust.
The valve block is probably fine and does not need to be fixed yet or maybe for a long time. I understand the luxury of fixing things before they need it but in case of the valve block I would let it be until it actually started to act up. The compressor and the worn bags do not mean it is going to go.
Tie rod and drag link are something I need to do as well. I am going custom on mine though and going to beef it up a little. I will make a write up when it is done.
Brakes you can get from AB or almost anywhere that you can trust.
The valve block is probably fine and does not need to be fixed yet or maybe for a long time. I understand the luxury of fixing things before they need it but in case of the valve block I would let it be until it actually started to act up. The compressor and the worn bags do not mean it is going to go.
Tie rod and drag link are something I need to do as well. I am going custom on mine though and going to beef it up a little. I will make a write up when it is done.
#22
I know you've been on the other forum, so for airbags/valve block contact Shupack at Rover Renovations would be my suggestion. May as well deal with an expert.
Brakes - I picked up a full set from Rovers North. I went with the Proline brand. Very pleased with the fitment and stopping power. Prices are reasonable too, much less than Genuine. It is an easy DIY job.
I did tie rods and drag link recently - I went with dealer parts due to a time crunch. IIRC the parts were less than $400 but I'll double check my invoice.
Welcome to the club! Look forward to hearing about your experiences with your new ride.
Brakes - I picked up a full set from Rovers North. I went with the Proline brand. Very pleased with the fitment and stopping power. Prices are reasonable too, much less than Genuine. It is an easy DIY job.
I did tie rods and drag link recently - I went with dealer parts due to a time crunch. IIRC the parts were less than $400 but I'll double check my invoice.
Welcome to the club! Look forward to hearing about your experiences with your new ride.
For the front air springs I have went straight to Arnott. You can find them on eBay as well in their store and it is usually a little cheaper than their site; or call them and say you want the eBay price.
Brakes you can get from AB or almost anywhere that you can trust.
The valve block is probably fine and does not need to be fixed yet or maybe for a long time. I understand the luxury of fixing things before they need it but in case of the valve block I would let it be until it actually started to act up. The compressor and the worn bags do not mean it is going to go.
Tie rod and drag link are something I need to do as well. I am going custom on mine though and going to beef it up a little. I will make a write up when it is done.
Brakes you can get from AB or almost anywhere that you can trust.
The valve block is probably fine and does not need to be fixed yet or maybe for a long time. I understand the luxury of fixing things before they need it but in case of the valve block I would let it be until it actually started to act up. The compressor and the worn bags do not mean it is going to go.
Tie rod and drag link are something I need to do as well. I am going custom on mine though and going to beef it up a little. I will make a write up when it is done.
I will leave the valve block for the time being but still want to be proactive with the springs. Great to hear that it is easy to throw those on
I also have a ticking sound when turning the steering wheel (sounds like bb's falling on the floor) and what sounds like a foot pump being pushed when I apply the brake Something like this
Not sure what the brake sound is but I heard the rotary coupler is to blame for the steering wheel noise
Last edited by 2000_328ci; 01-06-2011 at 08:44 AM.
#23
She's a beauty! Looks real clean on the outside.
Could be the rotary - the sound from inside or outside the truck?
How is the braking - do you have a lot of pedal travel? Does the cruise work? There is a vac switch for the cruise above the brake that could be causing the noise if it breaks vac when you step on the pedal. May need adjusted/replaced.
Could be the rotary - the sound from inside or outside the truck?
How is the braking - do you have a lot of pedal travel? Does the cruise work? There is a vac switch for the cruise above the brake that could be causing the noise if it breaks vac when you step on the pedal. May need adjusted/replaced.
#24
I think you are hearing the brake booster when you press the pedal, you may sometimes hear the ABS pump as well. Pay attention to the clicking, it could also be a failing CV joint. If it is it then you will feel a small catch when at full lock as it rotates around the bad part.
I hate to say it but get used to seeing your Rover at the gas station, it will be one of it's best friends.
Where are you located y the way? 21 degrees without snow sucks!
I hate to say it but get used to seeing your Rover at the gas station, it will be one of it's best friends.
Where are you located y the way? 21 degrees without snow sucks!
#25
Avoid Forever Black on the grille, as you have heard. Even if you do all the prep work correctly, and even if you go to the extreme to get the grille cleaned and prepped, it likely will not take the dye in a smooth and consistent manner. You end up with all kinds of spots and smears.
It does look a little better than Mothers Back to Black, but not on the grille, use the Mothers it will go on smooth. It will need touched up fairly often.
I'm just going to paint my P38 grille come springtime. I fouled it with the Forever Black. I was shocked really, I've used Forever Black on a myriad of old Saabs, Jaguars, even some Jeeps and never had it come out this bad.
It does look a little better than Mothers Back to Black, but not on the grille, use the Mothers it will go on smooth. It will need touched up fairly often.
I'm just going to paint my P38 grille come springtime. I fouled it with the Forever Black. I was shocked really, I've used Forever Black on a myriad of old Saabs, Jaguars, even some Jeeps and never had it come out this bad.
For the grille, I will just buy mothers back to black and will apply it regularly. For painting it, what would you suggest? Maybe I should just go straight to that rather than using back to black as a temporary fix. The grille on the car is one of the few areas that looks really beat up and I want to fix it
#27
OK, so I have forever black coming in the mail and am going to use it on the bumpers, side mouldings, and the area under the headlights.
For the grille, I will just buy mothers back to black and will apply it regularly. For painting it, what would you suggest? Maybe I should just go straight to that rather than using back to black as a temporary fix. The grille on the car is one of the few areas that looks really beat up and I want to fix it
For the grille, I will just buy mothers back to black and will apply it regularly. For painting it, what would you suggest? Maybe I should just go straight to that rather than using back to black as a temporary fix. The grille on the car is one of the few areas that looks really beat up and I want to fix it
I used Bulldog Adhesion promoter as the base coat. Helps paint stick to plastic. 2 to 3 coats. Then quality primer of your choice. Then quality spray paint of your choice. You could stick with plastic spray paint, but the Bulldog basically takes care of that so you could use regular paint.
#28
#29
Spent the entire day yesterday working on the car (installed new arnott gen 2 springs), took apart the valve block and put it back together with all new orings, and then today, detailed her all over.
Wash, clay bar, wax, forever black on the front bumper, rear bumper, and mud flaps, and installed xenon headlights. Unfotunately, one of the xenon ballasts is bad so the seller is resending one. Till then, I have one xenon and one halogen headlight lol.
Question... should I do the side moldings (mid level plastic along the doors) and the side skirts (lowest plastic part on the side of the car) in forever black? I did the bumpers but wasn't sure about those side pieces and the side mirrors. What are your thoughts?
Wash, clay bar, wax, forever black on the front bumper, rear bumper, and mud flaps, and installed xenon headlights. Unfotunately, one of the xenon ballasts is bad so the seller is resending one. Till then, I have one xenon and one halogen headlight lol.
Question... should I do the side moldings (mid level plastic along the doors) and the side skirts (lowest plastic part on the side of the car) in forever black? I did the bumpers but wasn't sure about those side pieces and the side mirrors. What are your thoughts?
#30