This is now driving me crazy, the History
1. P38 Overheats, take to DEALER NEW Radiator, old was PLUGGED UP
2. P38 Overheats, Blows hose, TWICE, NEW HOSES
3. P38 Overheats, Thermostat stuck, NEW ONE PUT IN
4. P38 Overheats, Water pump leaking, took to shop, could not break the fan clutch loose, NEW Fan Clutch, NEW WATER PUMP, NEW BELT
5. P38 Overheats, Drove car 6 miles from site of repair #4 (Water Pump)
P38 is back at the shop and I am at a loss.
I have replaced with NEW no rebuilds, Radiator, Radiator Cap, ALL Hoses, Water Pump, Belt, Thermostat I think that is the WHOLE cooling system.

My Guess in order of thought:
1. Plugged Water jacket in block
2. Crack in head on the exhaust side
There is NO water in the oil, just changed, no metal and no water.
What the heck am i Missing on this one!!!!!!

 

Any air bubbles in system (or sounds like water rushing under the dash)? Could be system was not "burped" fully. Could also be your thought of crack, so an exhaust gas in coolant chemical test could be done. (Head gaskets or cracked engine part).

Belt route? Fins of radiator and condenser clogged with mud, leaves?

We have had posts about after market thermostats not opening, one owner even pulled his out and tested with steaming water from a teapot, and it would not open. Also had similar report from a repair shop in Puerto Rico, and there have been other posts about a bad batch of thermostats (not dealer ones).

I don't have a drawing of the P38 cooling but if similar to a D2, with that three-hose thermostat, they could have it plumbed wrong.

 

And with all the work done on the truck, perhaps the fan got put back on reversed? Cupped side of blades toward engine block, and a plastic trash bag held in front of grille should be sucked toward truck rather than blown toward the front.

 

ONLY piece not replaced by dealer when told to REPLACE the cooling system was the EXPANSION TANK, will change that today and then test the system.

 

Well, the dealer would have used an oem stat, and one would hope they know the belt route and fan. If it is staying full of coolant and having this problems perhaps one of those combustion gas in coolant testers would be in order, they are about $50, but enough chemcials to do maybe 15 tests, will work for any car. See http://www.amazon.com/UVIEW-560000-C.../dp/B000NPDL76, also available at NAPA, etc. Dealer should have this also.

 

NO GOOD. I put a NEW expansion tank AND a new 140 cap on.
No pressure on the system it idled fine for about 15 min. Put on cap 1.6 miles OVERHEAT. Stopped at my shop put in 3 gallons of water, tired of antifreeze at 19.99/ gal, used 20 gallons SO FAR. Temp to NORMAL on the gauge, put on cap drive 1.4 miles RED LIGHT overheat.
I spoke to the dealer when I got the expansion tank and they said SLEEVE might have slipped.

The coolant is going SOMEPLACE but not in the oil pan for sure.
If the pressure cap is NOT ON it will idle forever with no PROBLEM but get it pressurized you loose the coolant or TURN IT TO STEAM which comes out the cap ONLY.
I hat to give up on this have OVER $13k in it so far and the dealer is talking about $9K for a re manufactured engine installed by the dealer.

I have the shotgun LOADED and will put it out of it's pain.

 

Mr. George, you had a problem in the past with coolant consumption from a hose leak under the coolant reserve I believe. If it is not going in the oil, and using a lot and no white smoke - maybe do a coolant pressure test and see where it is coming out when pressure is run up to 20 psi. But if you are getting steam that sounds like cracked something and also maybe exhaust gas in coolant.

 

I am looking at RAV and it states that Air in the System will cause overheating.
What I am getting is what we call in a steam plant WATER HAMMER, that is the AIR POCKETS in the hot water that can not be pressurized so it hammers, like a hot water in the old days in the pipes.
EVERYTHING is fine other than this problem.
Oil, ,NO WATER
Water, NO OIL
Carbon test (got from napa) negative for any problems.
U an going to step by step fill and burp the system in the am.
Page 505 talks about BLOWING out the bleed hose BEFORE filling, NEVER BEEN DONE YET.
Thanks for the advise, do not want to give up on this one at all.

 

The thermostat inside the three hose container is a bypass stat. Water from radiator moves up thru bottom. Hot water is filtered in from the top through some small holes (can get plugged), and that hot water activates the stat to make it open. When open it flows water out the "side arm" to the water pump.

When cold, and at idle, things seem to be balanced so there is very little flow. But if you idle engine up to say 1000 - 1200 rpm, then the top bypass valve will open slightly to circulate water. So it helps when adding coolant to have engine idled up, and keep additing coolant.

Here's a pix of those metering holes. Photos of inside the stat housing from Snafu / Disco fries https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...tat-you-46037/

Would also seem like if you can put in three gallons, and it it is going overheat in a mile or so, idling at 1200 - 1500 in the driveway ought to show some leak somewhere. One owner up in Montana got some relief by reversing the heater pipes and forcing water backwards through the heater core to finally burp his.

 

Cool, will BURP the baby in the am and see what I get.
Since everything is new, nothing SHOULD BE PLUGGED!
Thanks for the BRAIN POWER