Hello everyone, My name is Mark and I just picked up a 99' Range Rover hse. I come here from the BMW scene as I have 3 of them and do all my own wrenching. It has a bunch of issue that need to be sorted out I have already started researching but figured I'd throw up a thread in effort to meet you fellow owners and pick your brains

*I have ABS,Brake & TC lights on with EXTREME hard pedal The abs relay is missing so I know I need to start w/ getting a new one along w/ a abs scanner

*The power windows & sunroof will not work, but the switch panel does light up?!?!

*The HVAC has no back lighting=Does it have replaceable bulbs??? I can see the led display sorta

*The key fob is messed up w/ no button pad,battery or backing plate=new parts ordered. Is there a special method to reprogram it once fixed??

*Right turn signal doesn't work (doesn't even blink on the cluster) but does when you hit the hazard switch

I know there is more problems that I'm forgetting but this is to get started. I HAVE also ordered a manual which I should have by end of week.

heres a quick pic


thanks

 

Well, here is some good news. The manuals are online and free.

The shop and user manuals here: http://www.landroverresource.com/rave.zip
A member of this forum, Savannah Buzz has links to the Engine ECUs in his signature, so look for one of his comments to get them.

The P38 is one of the most well documented vehicle on the innerwebs; somebody someplace has experienced your pain and has either made a how to fix it video or doccumented very well with photos. Checkout this site RANGEROVERS.NET HOME is a good place to get your wrenches oriented.
Parts easy to find in the US at least. You need to pull your HVAC head to replace the bulbs; can't help there as I haven't had to do that yet.

 

Thank you much Ringo for your response. I have no doubt somebody has had the same issue, Its just a matter of sifting around to find the proper info. Good to hear that the hvac panel just needs bulbs and shouldnt need to replace the entire unit.

 

Your '99s fob should sync when inserted into the ignition. On the older models you insert in the door and press lock or unlock, then turn the key and hold for 3 seconds. The switch in the door must be functiong for it to work. It seems the '99 had a lot of mid-year changes so it's possible yours could use either of these methods. Just make sure you have a functioning fob because it sucks if the alarm goes off and the engine immobilzes. I read right after I bought mine to never buy a P38 without 2 functioning fobs

 

The ABS, brake and TC lights may be from a bad accumulator. Without the relay, you are operating the brakes directly not via stored hydraulic pressure as the system is designed. If the pressure system fails, the direct activation is the backup system and it doesn't work all that well. It is not uncommon for the ABS pump relay to stick and fry the pump, or for a bad accumulator to cause the pump to run too often and fry. To figure out what is happening, check out the diagnosis procedure on rangerovers.net or just do a google search for the procedure. Being a 1999, you have the 4-channel traction control which is awesome. You also have the stronger front differential. Is a late 99 or an early 99? The later models have the Bosch engine control.

Regarding the HVAC, it does have replaceable bulbs. If you can see the display somewhat, you are in luck because one of the common problems with this display is that the LCD panel becomes disconnected from the contacts and shuts off. This too can be repaired, but it is more involved than changing the bulbs.

 

Great info guys nice that the HVAC display is a easy fix. I'll check the date of manufacture when I get home and reply. Right now my 2 biggest concerns are getting the abs issues and the windows working so I can put a plate on it to drive.

I greatly appreciate the help and guidance

 

On power windows - can you hear the motor turn when you try to roll them up or down, do they move a little bit by themselves? The P38 has flimsy (imo) window regulators, the guide keeping the regulator gears aligned to the motor gears fails. I replaced the drivers side regulator, I found the price range for these are from $300 (OE) to under $100 for OEM. I spent another $30 on new slides and little things I probably didn't have to replace but did so to increase my chances I don't have to revisit that job again.
Clean the dried stiff grease out of the rails and guides (I used charcoal lighter fluid (Naptha) on a rag for this; it will not harm car paint or plastic parts and it evaporates relatively quickly) and then lubricated it with a light silicone grease.

 

I dont hear NOTHING from any of the windows I tried to download the RAVE but my pc is being pita. I need to find out what the power supply and ground wire colors are going into the switch panel

 

 

That's got the Bosch engine controls. Nice find. Hope you get it sorted out.