I always post in the Discovery section. But a recent accident has totalled out my Disco and now I'm looking to purchase a late 90's Range Rover. Here's the one I'm looking at:

http://tricities.craigslist.org/cto/1786036572.html

Questions: How likely that it's a relay or fuel pump? If not either of those, any other possibilities? (like CPS, MAF, etc)
I would prefer the 4.0L as that's what I had in my Disco, but is the 4.6L the same as the one used in the Disco II? (I know those had issues)

Thanks in advance,
Eric
(former owner of a D1)

 

It's very likely the fuel pump relay, which is a simple fix unless it's the relay box it sits in, or the fuel pump itself which is less so. It won't turn over at all if its a security issue, and it will start in open loop if it's a MAF. Prior to 99 1/2, the 4.6 used the "GEMS" engine management system which was less complicated than the Bosch system used in the later versions through 02 as a result of BMW owning Land Rover at the time. The Bosch Motronic can fail suddenly, but the GEMS seemed more stable.

Search this forum since it has the greatest amount of 38a info:

http://rangerovers.net/forum/

The first three years of the 38a were troublesome, but most of the bugs were worked out by the dealers.

I've owned both early and late models, with the current being one of the last 38a's built for the North American market. It is probably the most dependable since most of the ****les were worked out by then, but it's also the most complicated since they kept adding crap like navigation, video, etc.

 

Price is a little up there considering that it doesn't run. I would be wary. If it is such a simple fix, then why doesn't the seller just fix it?? Also, being that it doesn't run, you will be unable to test any of the other stuff on the vehicle and that could cost you big $$ on a RR. If you want a project, offer the seller $800.00

 

Thank you both for the info. I'll have to read up on them. I am reluctant to pay that kind of money for something I can't even drive. It could end up being an expensive project. The only other one I found is a '98 at a used car lot with 148kmi and they want $4500. Only problem is, no warranty.

Eric

 

$4500 on a '98 with 148k is very high. You can do much better than that. Keep looking.

 

You may want to ask how it was determined to be a fuel pump issue. Another possibility is the crank sensor, which is relatively inexpensive, and when it fails the engine stalls and will not start but will leave a code. If it fails during cranking, it will not leave a code. It would be great if you could inspect the RR and check a few things out.

 

Have you checked the fuel pressure? Get a simple tire gauge and put it on the fuel rail. You should get about 10 to 15 PSI. If the fuel pump is working... walk away. The price is also really high....

 

I haven't looked at it yet.. It's about 90 miles away from me so I wanted to see if it was even worth the trip. Almost 2 grand for something that doesn't run... hmmmm....

Eric

 

Well I do not think the price is all that bad if the rest of the vehicle is in good order. I bought my 97 for $1800 with a known blown engine, but the rest was in perfect order and was from the original owner with all records.

With all that said, I am willing to bet money on it that it is the CPS. An easy fix and very inexpensive. The issues that you do not know yet is what the air suspension condition is so that is a gamble as well. An easy way to find out about the CPS is to get a spark tester and take it with you, pull a plug wire and se if there is spark there. You can also just push in the shrader valve on the fuel rail and see if it spits anything out, if it does then it is getting some fuel and probably not the pump. I would also check the fuse in the box and just see if it has blown ( happened to me once). Of course keep all this to your self while negotiating.

As an example, I jusy bought a 99 D2 SE7 for $1700 and the owner thought it was a fuel pump. Ordered a CPS from AB and it started right up. I am willing to bet the same for you.