On the thermostat there are (2) SMALL hoses that come into the top Where do they go?
I ran the engine in the yard, got STEAM out of the upper connection on the radiator where it goes BACK to the expansion tank. Thought that was an AIR BLEED so when you fill the system water comes out and PUSHES out the air.
The last gasp is that these hoses are put in the WRONG connection points on the thermostat.
Took 15 min at 2,000 rpm to overheat, never MOVED from the driveway.
can find NOTHING in Rav as far as routing of the hoses.

 

Mr. George,

See attached. The center small hose on top goes to the upper hose connection (hot water out of engine), similar to a D2. That provides the "sample" of hot water to turn on the stat. The second small hose is the return line from the heater core and expansion tank. If a determined mechanic reversed them, might cause problems. Of course the large side arm hose goes to the water pump.

 

Great the hoses are CORRECT, verified with my snake camera.
Now the DUMBEST question.
Is it POSSIBLE that and OVER FILLED SYSTEM can cause the problem since the water has no place to go?
Reason is I put an overflow can on the unit, length of hose and a 1 gallon antifreeze jug. I started the engine with TO MUCH in the expansion tank, got steam, pushed out water into jug, let it run on temp gauge A OK. Just turned it off after 2500 rpm run up for about 3 min, NO OVERHEAT.
Could it have been that SIMPLE?? no place for the steam to go (HAMMER) so it DISPLACED the water in the tank then got happy????
Thanks for all your TIME and information.
Please EMAIL me at lrpweb@bellsouth.net .

 

Stick a for in it it is DONE, MUST be the engine. Got steam out if the vent off the radiator TO FAST to make me happy.
All HOSES are routed fine, all pieces that make up the cooling system are NEW so the only thing that it can be is the engine.
Will park it and decide what to do next. Will trailer to the dealer for a new power plant if we keep it.
Not worth much as it is.

 

Well, a cracked head or block (the big problems) and/or head gaskets are a possibility. But usually with such problems, the extreme water conversion to steam also brings along combustion gas in coolant, but I thought that test came up negative. Hopefully it is just head gaskets or a cracked head.

 

Was negative BUT with the way this is going it MUST be a dropped or slipped sleeve or? Debating on a used low mile engine or just give up. I have almost $14,000.00 in the thing now.

 

Like was earlier stated, a block test may point you on a path toward repair (HG) or replace. Current stock at a pull a part yard near you (Augusta) with date it hit the yard...

ENGINE BLOCK W\HEADS $101.99 $16.35 $21.12 = under $150 with warranty

Disco 95 - 11/9/11
Disco 95 - 12/21/11
Rover - 2000 - 11/14/11
Rover 97 - 12/08/11

 

Where is Augusta will take the trailer and FETCH today

 

Pull A Part

329 SandBar Ferry Rd



Augusta, GA 30901
Phone: 706-432-0600

These guys are a chain of yards, like three in Atlanta. They have on-line inventory, and can even email you when a vehicle your are interested in comes in. As such they are a favorite of parts vultures. I watched a guy take out a D2 engine in under 30 minutes, he used a sawzall to cut away the the front frame to bumpers and cross member. Yards usually have a chain lift for you to use to pull, or guys that hang around and will pull things for you for a fee.

 

Thanks.
Tried ONE LAST TIME
There is nothing but steam coming out of the radiator return to the expansion tank, ALSO the hose from the heater circuit side of the bypass is NOTHING but air into the expansion tank after the engine goes to overheat warning.
The test kit I got es NG I tested the water in the old Porsche which HAS a bad head and it was negative also.
Might just load it on the trailer and take it to Columbia Land Rover and say fix it and bite the bullet. They could transfer ALL the new parts over to the short block they have.