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P38 three lights and NO BRAKES

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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 12:17 PM
  #11  
handsome rob's Avatar
Recovery Vehicle
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From: CDA, ID
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My fault then, sorry for the miss information. I have not worked on the brakes in my Range Rover only the Disco, they are seperate there.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 12:34 PM
  #12  
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From: Wiltshire UK
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Agreed! I also don't know why they call it a 'modulator' when its just a very complicated master cylinder. ;o)

I'm going with listening for pump action to start with - I'll disconnect the EAS pump as I can see how to do that in Rave. Then I'll go for the bleed of the MC that LRScott suggested earlier.

I will also see what happens when I pump the pedal (before the bleed) to see if that throws up any clues.

I suppose it's just a case of trial and error. Once again, I really appreciate the suggestions. This is a brilliant forum.

Cheers for now,

CJ ...
 
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Old Feb 19, 2010 | 05:35 AM
  #13  
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Hi Guys,

Pulled the connector on the EAS this morning and then started up. Voila! No sound or vibration at the ABS pump at all.

I had to move the car back away from the house to get under the bonnet (hood!) and noticed that there is a small amount of braking still - right at the bottom of the pedal. So at least the magnolia tree survived. :-)

I have checked the fuses and relays and it all looks very clean. The fuses seem intact and I swapped out one of the relays. The black one is on its own so I couldn't swap.

I'm pretty sure that I have no pressure in the system. Is there anything I can do to test the actual pump before lashing out 600 odd pounds for a new one?

Any advice welcome as always,

CJ ...
 
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Old Feb 19, 2010 | 11:45 AM
  #14  
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From: Meridian, Idaho
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I would start with a relay first, since its the cheapest. Sometimes they just go out for no reason. The black one I believe is the main one for the pump. You can also test the electric motor portion of the pump by applying a 12v current across it. If all the brake fluid returned to the reservoir, that might mean your relief valve has a serious leak. If you can get the pump to run, take off the high pressure out going line and see if its drawing any brake fluid from the reservoir.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 01:27 AM
  #15  
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Mudding
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Not to hijack this post but where is the releif valve on the 99(bosch). My res started on low fluid to now way too much. Think it is back pressure from somewhere. Gonna try bleeding to see if there is any air in system
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 02:19 AM
  #16  
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From: Meridian, Idaho
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Bentonrover, that is most likely a result of too much air in the system. That or you are not filling the reservoir properly. The "MAX" is where the fluid should be when the system is fully depressurized, not when its pressurized. If you wait until the abs pump kicks off to fill the reservoir to the "max" level, you have basically over filled it. Wait over night and then look at the reservoir. If its at the "max" position in the morning, that is correct. This has been my experience anyways. Someone else with more knowledge can add to this. However, I filled to the "max" position when the system was pressurized, only to return to brake fluid all over the garage floor. Basically the system depressurizes on its own... All the brake fluid will return to the reservoir overnight. If it was at the normal "max" level before and then all of a sudden starts over flowing, you have a very large internal leak...

To answer your question about the relief valve, the relief valve is inside the pump. It can cause the pump to run continuously and burn the electric motor out. The purpose of the valve is to "relieve" any sort of excess pressure present in the pump. I would highly recommend not servicing the relief valve. It would be easier and safer to just replace the pump.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 08:23 AM
  #17  
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Hey LRScott thanks for the quick response. Gonna let the truck cool down for a while to recheck the lever. I added more fluid one day when the brake light came on while driving. Between all the wheeling mud/and being night time I guess I did over fill. Did notice fluid all over the res area all so. I get back to you all later with the results thanks again
 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 08:45 AM
  #18  
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4wd Low
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Also a thought / concern that I was reading about just the other day:
http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=23569
 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 09:51 AM
  #19  
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Mudding
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Brake light is off while driving. Bled and flush the system. Light stays on for about 20 seconds on start up then turns off. No more leaky res either. Thanks LRScott
 
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 01:23 PM
  #20  
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From: Wiltshire UK
Default Hi Guys - it's me again.

Partly an update and partly a question.

The three lights illuminate when there is no pressure in the system so my hunch was right.

I bought a used ABS pump, complete with accumulator. It was 'tried and tested' by the seller.

At last I've managed to find time to fit the thing and all has gone well. I now have brakes and they are better than before the major failure.

However, I now have the three lights flashing on just as I touch the brake pedal. They are only on for a second then they clear. I can hear the pump cut in for a moment and then stop - as though it is topping up what I have just used. The brakes are, as I said, fine!

I have read that this may be the sign a failing accumulator. Any thoughts at all anyone?

Cheers,

Alan ...
 
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