Re-sleeve: Yes or No?
99 P38, 4.0. Blew the head gasket and after replacing discovered the sleeve in the #6 cylinder had slipped causing chronic overheating. Been doing a little research on replacing engine with used or getting my block re-sleeved (Q and E in CA, D&D in MI). As usual, people have opinions both ways. What I've had trouble finding is information as to the longevity of a re-sleeved block. Any input much appreciated. TIA
This is my take on it.
If you put the top hat liners in the motor it does not correct the problem because the cracks are appearing behind cylinders 4 6 3 5. In another words even with the new liners you still can have cracks.
BUT is not that simple.
With the top hat liners in place you getting an excellent seal on the head gaskets stopping the coolant from the cracks getting into the cylinders or exhaust gas into the coolant. So the $2000 question is will the top hat liners hold up for the next 10 years?
I think the answer is yes from what we've seen.
If you put the top hat liners in the motor it does not correct the problem because the cracks are appearing behind cylinders 4 6 3 5. In another words even with the new liners you still can have cracks.
BUT is not that simple.
With the top hat liners in place you getting an excellent seal on the head gaskets stopping the coolant from the cracks getting into the cylinders or exhaust gas into the coolant. So the $2000 question is will the top hat liners hold up for the next 10 years?
I think the answer is yes from what we've seen.
Any idea how to contact them?
There was a company Concast or something like that; the blocks were new had a siemse bore and larger water jackets. But they are like hens teeth to find.
AB was selling the last of their short blocks last year, but now that they have a remanufactured engine that they sell, I think there history.
AB was selling the last of their short blocks last year, but now that they have a remanufactured engine that they sell, I think there history.
Resleeving is definitely an option to consider. Get a competent machine shop to sonic test and pressure test the block before the machine work starts. Once that is done the CNC machining can bore the hole for best position should there be a casting shift. Once bored the top hats can be sealed at the bottom should a crack appear later. The top hat will seal the upper block to cylinder head. Make sure they have CNC machining capabilities...
LA Sleeve has the liners listed as ROVE 1
ARP stud kit or new head bolts will seal up the top.
New ECU tuning will fatten up the midrange where it has been leaned out to much. If you watch the mapping in real time under load you can see this happening. Don't tell me I cannot see the mapping on the Bosch 5.2 ECU. It's old news now to remap this thing. It runs to lean and results in high temperatures. Most people who think the liner will not work are probably poor engineers or machinists.
AluminumV8 in Michigan or Opel engineering in Illinois has the capability to do this properly for you. Why buy another headache to happen. I did this with my 4.0 and have great results.
Have a nice day.
MAK
LA Sleeve has the liners listed as ROVE 1
ARP stud kit or new head bolts will seal up the top.
New ECU tuning will fatten up the midrange where it has been leaned out to much. If you watch the mapping in real time under load you can see this happening. Don't tell me I cannot see the mapping on the Bosch 5.2 ECU. It's old news now to remap this thing. It runs to lean and results in high temperatures. Most people who think the liner will not work are probably poor engineers or machinists.
AluminumV8 in Michigan or Opel engineering in Illinois has the capability to do this properly for you. Why buy another headache to happen. I did this with my 4.0 and have great results.
Have a nice day.
MAK
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tskeltonPGA
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