So I am digging in on my new toy and prioritizing work to be done (there is no shortage). First thing I need to address that I'm unsure of is a steering issue. The truck is a 1994 RRC LWB with roughly 190,000 miles on it.

I have only driven the Rover 10 miles or so since buying, only to my driveway, but on the way it exhibited some symptoms of steering wear.

There isn't a death wobble that I can tell, but I never went over about 45-50 mph so I'm not positive there isn't one. The steering wheel has a lot of play in it, particularly when taking left hand turns. When the steering does engage, there is a pretty good shake that starts up and will continue until the steering wheel is back to nearly straight. Right hand turns are not nearly as bad, no shake, but still some play in the wheel.

My initial thought was panhard rod bushings, but I'm not reading anywhere that those would cause the excess play in the wheel, and it seems like the shake would happen all the time if they were worn. I've read other accounts of steering u-joints and linkages, radius arm bushings, swivel housings, steering gearbox, etc.

I'm hoping someone out there may be able to eliminate some of those possibilities or shed some light on the likely cause. I know the wobbles have been covered to death, so apologies for possibly being redundant.

Cheers!

 

Check the pitman arm on the steering box. I had a situation with a Rover I bought last winter where the arm was loose. Steering was very vague and there was vibration being sent up the steering column from the arm chattering when you turned. I couldn't believe the PO used the truck to commute back and forth to NYC a couple of times a week with the truck steering that way.

 

Thanks for the advice Paul, I'll check it this weekend! Sounds like the same symptoms, so fingers crossed...

 

also check the u-joints on the steering shaft that is were i found the problem on my 90rrc.

 

You nailed it Paul, the lower end of the pitman arm was so loose I could almost turn it by hand. Pair of channel locks and I could tighten it one and a half rotations. Haven't given it a road test, as the top end of the engine is disassembled (I'm a multitasker) but I'm sure that's going to make a huge difference. Thanks for the advice!

 

Pair of channel locks and I could tighten it one and a half rotations.

dam that would have hurt

 

The big nut that secures the drop arm to the box should be tightened to 130 ft-lbs. Channel locks won't do the trick.