I'm still shopping for either a D1 or an RRC and I go back and forth on my preference based on the ads I happen to be looking at. I've got my eye on a couple different options of each. Generally I've been trying stay in '93+ range for RRC's but recently I found a '90 which looks very nice and isn't too far away. It's on the high end of my price range but is doable. Anything in particular to look out for in this model year vs "newer" versions? I understand some of the upsides of the '95 vs older but other than that, anything to be concerned or aware of?

Honestly my biggest concern with RRC's is the ignition and older electronics. I'm very capable mechanically as we'll as electrically but I'm used to Bosch fuel injection, and more modern distributorless type systems. Though I've spent many a fine hour on late '80's BMW's. I wish I knew someone near me with an RRC so I could check it out and understand it a it better. Anyone in the Brighton, MI area? ;^)

Anyway, any help, advice, info, etc is much appreciated. I'm hoping to move forward with a purchase in the next month tops.

Thanks

Jack

 

You can go two different ways, like you said, stay in the 93+ range, that would give you some of the perks of the new designs and systems. I've got the 95, the last year of the classics, I've got better air bags, traction control "through the ABS" and this was the first year of the accident absorbing shocks on the front bumper. Personally I like my 95, I've got a killer sound system "stock", and virtually no rust "California rover".

I've also got a 93 rover, this was my grandfathers. I'ts been sitting for at least 5 years, he thought he busted it, when all that was "busted" was some miss connected wires on the ignition coil. Old girl started right up once I had a look at her. One thing you should defiantly look for is rust, rust on rovers in the 90's literally make or break the rover. Look above the gas tank, the rear mounts where the body attaches to the frame, if the mounts are rusted out, or even non existing, you will be opening a can of worms.

My suggestion would be, find a Rover that came from out west or down south. I've had ignition problems before on both rovers, and its nothing that cant be fixed.

On the 93's and older there is an ignition amplifier on the side of the distributor, when sitting in traffic with the high heat. The amplifier will over heat and literally stop working, this means no spark for the plugs. Rover has made a re location kit for this problem, the amplifier is just re located off of the engine. In my 95, Rover had identified the problem, and mounted the amplifier off to the side right behind the Left front head light for proper cooling.

I'm a Range Rover owner, not a Discovery owner, But if i was shopping for another rover, Id find a 95, that's the peak of the Classics engineering and "De Bugging".

 

Is it safe to say that most of the fixes found in the '95 model can be easily done to an older model? I don't expect to be able to easily update ignition system components necessarily but then is that necessary?

Things like traction control and airbags I'm not so concerned about. I plan to install a winch bumper so not sure this matters so much for the accident shocks.

The rust issue I'm definitely concerned about. I noticed in some pics of D1's and one that I looked at locally there seems to be the area on the body in the passenger rear doors that is prone to rust...nasty rust. So any other locations to check on RRC's? Rad support, bumper support....underbody anywhere other than mounts and fuel tank area?

Are there any real mechanical or 4x4 system advantages to newer RRC's vs newer...such as between '89 and '95?

Thanks again.

Cheers.

Jack

 

Most of the fixes could be done to an older model, such as the 93 compared to the 95. I know this for a fact, the 93 has some of the updated systems. And no they don't necessarily need to be done, but if you ever came across a problem, you might want to consider them. Another factor you might want to think about is the older you get the more crude the systems get's. My 93 is a little more aggressive and spins more tire than my 95. The 95 has the traction control and other features to help keep control of the driving conditions.


Rust is inevitable, its just the severity of it. Besides the rear end of the rover, try looking in the engine bay. Such as, where the abs pump mounts to the wheel well, you might see blistering starting to form. A major contributor to the rust factor is the bottom paint that coats the whole underside of the vehicle. Sand, water and dirt will accumulate in cracks or scraps in the bottom paint. This constant moisture causes huge rust issues, check wheel wells, and mainly the rear of the car. Mud flaps actually really help with the RRC. The RRC has the same rust in the corner of the doors right by the latch mechanism. Also check out the tail gate, Right above the licence plate if your concerned about the external looks of your Rover. while your back there be sure check the entire tailgate area, water has a habit of leaking in though the rear hatch.

Mechanically, These rovers are basically the same even all the way into the P38's. The 4.2L Buick engines are all the same in the LWB's. I find this beneficial when looking for upgrades and performance items. Every mechanic out there knows the engine.

Ill take a look and see if I have any rust pictures.

Respectfully ,

Sean

 

Thanks, very helpful! Pics are always good since I don't know these vehicles all that well yet. My thought is that if I find one in good shape I will do some preventative work on the rust by using POR15 and then possibly rhino liner type stuff. I plan to do plenty of off roading though nothing all that severe but most certainly mud, dirt, trails. I plan to drive it in the winter as my dailer driver car is becoming more of a track toy, it's getting to be more work than it's worth to prep it for winter use and it's not so much fun.

Thanks again.

Cheers.

Jack

 

The first picture I believe. Like I said earlier, where the ABS pump mounts to the wheel well. Actually where ever there are the plastic pop fittings. Those are one of the most annoying rust problems on both rovers, if you take them out to get access to something, you might rip the rust out right with it. I try and stay away from removing them, leave them be.

The second one is of the fire wall, the tranny stick is right there. Water will run down on that little ledge, eventually that will be a problem but I haven't found any significant damage yet, I sprayed some bottom paint on the crack just to be safe.


Respectfully,

Sean

 

Cool, thanks, that is helpful!

Cheers.

Jack

 

No problem. Always glad to help out another Rover fan!

Good luck with your search. Let me know how you make out!


Respectfully,

Sean

 

Question I've meant to ask.......what is the difference between the tcase in the RRC and that in the D1? Are they the same...something about one being chain and the other being gear right....RRC is chain IIRC. Anything else different about them? I can never see the diagram on the shift lever on the RRC, does it also have both locked and unlocked in either high or lo?

Thanks.

Jack

 

No Problem!

I'm a RRC Guy, The RRC is chain driven. RRC has only High/low, I've seen conversions with locking Diff's from a Discovery into a RRC. Air lockers or "non air lockers" can be installed with Day and Night differences, personally it will put a discovery to shame if an ARB rocker got into a Range Rover.

Here is the "Bible" for my 95. I strongly recommend you get one for ether rover you get. Or just save the PDF!

http://www.landroverresource.com/doc...anual_1995.pdf

http://www.landroverresource.com/doc...hop_Manual.pdf


Respectfully,

Sean