Howdy everyone!

I wanna start this off by saying I am a new Land Rover owner, love the hell out it btw! I have owned my 2000 disco 2 since October, probably my favorite vehicle of all that I have owned, period.

However, in the last week and a half I have been having some serious stalling issues. It had been running fine and dandy up until then, except for a rare short stall here and there and by that it was almost not even noticable, just kinda cut out on me a few times driving down the highway. Also noticed it was kinda idling a little higher when stopped in the road.

Well I woke up one morning, me and my wife were heading to the boys ball practice. Did not make it hardly 100ft down the road and it stalled, almost like the ignition had been shut off. I stopped the vehicle and restarted, started just fine. Ended up stalling again not even 50 more ft. So I decided to turn around and go back home and get the car. I lurked the forums since then and have seen that stalling was quiet an issue with disco 2s. I started by cleaning the MAF sensor and IACV. The idle air control was horrendously nasty and I ran 2 can of carb cleaner thru it before it ever got clean. Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner, cleaned the throttle body pretty good, not as good as I should have and put it all back together. Replaced the fuel pump relay as well.

Jumped back in her and headed to town, hardly stalled on me at all and the idle was better and noticed after cleaning everything up it felt like a new vehicle as far as throttle response and accelerating goes. Made a huge difference cleaning all that up. Then it started it again, idle is fine, always starts immediately after stalling but its stalling again. I drove to town the other day and decided to unplug the MAF sensor and it drove well without it now it stalls with or without it unplugged. Seems to stall more when going uphill or accelerating, the longer its driven the worse it gets. Seemed to do a little better after adding a bottle of fuel additive.

I did manage to get it to advanced auto the other day and get some codes read... Here are the codes that came up.

p0455
p0102
p0112
p1230
p1590

any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

It was great that you cleaned the intake components... MAF, throttle body and IAC valve.
Your problem sounds like the crankshaft position sensor (CPK/CPS... *not to be confused with camshaft positon sensor) is failing which is notorious problem for these V8's. The Disco initially runs great then suddenly shuts down once the CPS gets hot.
If you plan to replace it, get a Bosch (not Duralast) brand #ERR-735 CPS, clear the fault codes, then take 'er for a drive to test out and check for fault codes again.

 

Thanks Juke for the reply! I have thought it may be the CPS but from the reports I have read, most people say they have a hard time starting them after stalling, till it cools down again. Mine will restart no matter how hot it gets, but yes with more load and more time running it does get worse... So I will order a CPS and give it a shot. My uncle seems to think it may be the fuel pump going out, if the CPS doesnt work, would that be a good next step?

 

Will this one work? It's made by Bosch... Found it at rock auto for $40.79... Here is the link.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...on+sensor,7196

 

Yes. That is it and for a good price since I paid $55 for mine.
If that doesn't fix the problem at least you'll have a good CPS now installed. I'm all about preventive maintenance before something tragic happens. lol

 

Since the vehicle is new to you and you don't have a good handle on how diligent the previous owner(s) were about maintenance, I'd replace a few things which are notorious for crapping out.
Generally speaking I'm not a fan of just throwing parts at problems, but this list covers the bulk of the 'easy' problems that almost all of us have confronted at one time or another. If you plan on sticking with this truck for a while, you might as well get it over with...

1. IACV
2. Crank Pos Sensor (CkPS)
3. Fuel pump
4. All vacuum lines
5. PCV (there is a write up in the D2 section about upgrading to metal from plastic)
6. air, oil, and fuel filters

- replace gear oil in all three diffs
- replace motor oil
- drain, flush thoroughly, and change to green coolant

Get a OBDII dongle and an app for your phone to read and clear codes. This will also allow you to monitor various sensor readings in real time which can be very helpful when troubleshooting.


As for your specific codes:

p0455 EVAP SYSTEM (VERY) LARGE LEAK DETECTED
p0102 MAF SENSOR VOLTAGE LOW
p0112 IAT CIRCUIT LOW INPUT
p1230 Fuel Pump Relay Open
p1590 Rough road signal implausible Drive cycle A:Signal implausible

You can find the codes here....
https://www.innova.com/en-US/Dtc?r=0.1674791229732334

And you are welcome to download all the workshop and electrical manuals from the google drive link in my signature.

Two more things....post in the D2 section so that you'll get more eyeballs on your post and more/better responses. Finally, put the year / model / mileage of your truck in your signature so that folks know what you have.

Welcome to the forum!

 

Very very good information Walt! You could not have put it any better buddy. I will slowly but surely replace all of those parts and tune up as I go, trying to get it done quickly as I possibly can.

Would any of those codes listed be causing the issues I am seeing? Do any of them need immediate attention? What's up with the "major leak" deal??

I just took my crank shaft sensor off, that was no fun... Such a tight squeeze getting in there, hope it goes back on easier than it came off lol. A question though, is it normal for the sensor to have grease/oil on the tip sticking out that goes into the engine? It was very greasy.

 

Also, if it were to be the crank sensor, wouldn't a code be showing up for that on the computer reading?

I would like to note something that could have caused potential damage or issues when I first got the vehicle. I got it from my father in law, in which he left at my uncle's mechanic shop in town for a couple weeks before I picked it up. My uncle is a mechanic although never worked on a land rover, he is used to domestic made vehicles. He said that it didn't have an air filter even connected to it when I got it. He said if you barely put your hand over the intake where the filter goes it would die and I would have to get a universal air filter for it. So I bought me an edlebrock air filter and attached to it. Ran just fine with it. So I guess it had been ran for a while with no air filter on it before I purchased it, driven by folks who had no experience with land rovers.

 

I also wanna note.... I recall once when it stalled that there was some really loud clunking noises in the engine, sounded very bad. Pulled on side of road and plugged my maf sensor back up, clunking was gone and I fired it up and managed to make it home. But that clunking noise only happened that one time when I had the maf sensor unplugged and the noise was not existent up till right before it dies, losing power, clunking loud and then I pulled over immediately.

 

Hey Walt, I see in your reply you had mentioned changing the fuel "filter/s". It is to my understanding that the 2000 discovery 2 does not have a serviceable/changeable fuel filter. Is this true??