Well, the temps are getting colder and my mind turns to engine noises. I'm on my second Disco, a 2004 with 80k miles. I bought it a year ago and have driven it 12k miles. It makes many of the same noises my 99 did (sold it with 170k miles). I get several noises and they are slowly driving me crazy. Noise number one is a light, muted knock most noticeable when engine is cold and accelerating slowly off idle. Every Disco I have ever looked at has made this noise (some more, some less) and there are several videos on Youtube that the noise can be heard in. It is not a sharp rap like a rod knock, more like a plastic mallet sound. Loudest when cold, almost non-existent when hot. Any ideas? Noise number two is a light clank when hot at idle. Sounds like it comes from the rear bottom end of the engine. Could this be the torque converter? Also, I frequently lifters ticking on cold start - not always, and they quiet almost immediately. Also getting a tick at engine speeds above 2500 rpm. It's probably a rocker or two - does this need immediate attention? I've had to add about a cup of coolant in 12k miles, no sign of coolant in oil - normal? Many questions I know, they have built up over the past year and I'm really need to sort these things out. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

 

1. Consider oil pump as source of some noise, you can see posts on ones with cracked sections. Can be evaluated with mechanical oil PSI test, if an issue may be part of your noise at startup.

2. The rear noise may well be cracked flex plate, which bolts between torque converter and flywheel.

3. You may be able to use a mechanic's stethoscope (parts store) or broom handle (she-who-must-be-obeyed must be consulted before "borrowing") to press against various spots and listen closely. May help localize the noise source.

4. Inquiring minds are going to want to know where you are, type of oil you run, how long since last change, etc.

 

Thanks for the reply. I'm in SE Michigan. I use Rotella T 15-40 and Napa Gold filter with silicone drainback valve. 3000 miles between oil changes. Occasionally Seafoam in the tank. Haven't done any kind of oil flush due to mixed opinions on several forums.

Forum are good and bad - can make you OCD. Had a V65 Honda Sabre motorcycle and, if I believed everything I read, I'd have to kill myself or replace my cams once a week.

Anyway, My D2 has a pretty good service history due to the free dealer maintenance. I know that the dealers put in a fuel additive with each oil change and Rovers can suffer from sticking valves so I could use a good recommendation for a fuel additive.

I'm ready for an oil change and would appreciate a good plan if there are any products or treatments thazt might quiet things down.

 

Your oil and drain interval are more than adequate. Rotella does a good job cleaning "sludge" etc. Don't think you would get much from an oil flush. But SeaFoam does that also. Oil flush and oil additives will get you more attention on this forum than a $50 Defender...

That said, you might consider the oil pressure test, or even an after market oil PSI gauge. Here's a pix from DeepBlueWater of his oil pump, was making a tick, note sections cracked. That'll let it pump, just not enough PSI, so lubrication is slowly starved.

The concept of quieting down an older engine is usually done by thin oil / flush (like Marvel Mystery Oil, BG44, SeaFoam, GUNK motor flush) or thicker stuff (Did anyone order LUCAS?). And these may cover up something or free up gunk. But you have a good history and use a quality oil, so while a flush won't hurt, it probably won't make much difference on the noises.

Have to match oil to local temps. See sheet from RAVE.

 

Interesting crack. I can see why it still pumps but low pressure. Is this the problem with the 03 pumps? My D2 is an 04. I'll look into getting the oil pressure checked.

Saw something bizarre on UK Ebay - Defenders are cheaper than Discos. $30k gets you a 15 year old Defender one here, a 2010 in UK.

Thanks for the info. Any thoughts on the muted rap I hear? Mine sounds exactly like the one in this Youtube video:

Engine noise 2004 Land Rover Discovery - YouTube

 

I still like the acoustic detective work, the metal stethoscope ar wood stick conduct sound faster than open air, and it lets you block out some of the existing noise. Very good for listening to each device on the belt system, to see which one is very loud, or where a noise seems "in sync" with what you hear with other ear. Good for valve covers, can even hear front. middle or rear.

 

I personally, took my fan clutch out when I was trying to listen for a sound. Gets rid of a roaaaaaaaaar sound. I would definately do an OIL PSI TEST. You could potentially have low oil psi, maybe timing chain is loose?? Mine was when I rebuilt the front cover with oil pump. My pump wasn't broke but just not pumping as well as it needed to to minimize wear on the engine. You could also do a head gasket kit test on it too. They sell these at napa and auto zone. That will tell you if you have a blown head gasket. I personally use a Mobil one 301 filter, its a MONSTER filter when it comes to length and cleaning. So far so good with royal purple 10w-40 in my rover in IA.

 

The sticky valves are from oil sludge not the fuel, the valves all have carbon cutters on them.
Use good gas and dont worry about it.

 

The oil pump cracks happened on all the Disco's, 1's and 2's and should be replaced every time you do your time chain, every 120,000 plus miles.

 

I passed a few critical milestones in my quest to understand the Ticking Engine Syndrome. Did a combustion gas in the coolant test - head gaskets sound - blue is good! Did an oil pressure test - could only test hot so far - 28 psi @ idle, 50 psi @ 2500 rpm. Running Rotella 10-30 Semi-synth. Did some scanning with an infrared thermometer - not a thorough test yet, but after 15 minutes, coolant hoses hard to touch, hose exiting thermostat 165 deg., lower radiator hose 20 deg. over ambient so I was not into the radiator yet. Thermo is doing its job. I will test after a longer run. Temperature of air exiting the vents with the heat on pretty much parallels hose temp (go figure).I still want a quiet engine, but at least I can rest easy that head gasket and oil pump are good.

First 50k miles with dealer service, got it with 68k so only 18k outside the dealer, now have 81k miles. Just did a couple tie rod ends, one lower ball joint is a little loose. Doesn't follow road cracks anymore. Wintertime squeal from fan clutch and headliner continues to loose adhesion. What would I do with my time if I didn't have a Rover to wrench!?