96 Disco...went dead while driving 1wk.aftr.New Alt.jst got new battery..
#11
my belt routing is wrong...and....
My fan is super slow..i mean,i can put my hand in it while car is idlen.this must be a new oribkem..becausevI drive here from Gainesville doing 80 in the heat...
I will have my neighbor re route the belt,and change the fan if needed.He taught me how to clean the air throttle hose,super easy!!! Im so excited to learn hiw to fix my truck myself!!!
Why is the fan slow?? And if i need another one,our pick and pull just crushed my EXACT TRUCK!!...Can anyone here help me find one???
Thanks
I will have my neighbor re route the belt,and change the fan if needed.He taught me how to clean the air throttle hose,super easy!!! Im so excited to learn hiw to fix my truck myself!!!
Why is the fan slow?? And if i need another one,our pick and pull just crushed my EXACT TRUCK!!...Can anyone here help me find one???
Thanks
#12
1. Do not touch fan when engine is running. That is not the way to test it, and you could end up huting yourself. Think math is hard? Try doing it with no fingers.
2. The acceptable test is to stop the engine when warmed up, then spin fan by hand. If it twirls around more than one revolution it has lost the fluid inside that engages it. YOUR BELT ROUTE COULD IMPACT FAN SPEED.
3. There is a write up in the tech sticky area about a substitute fan clutch, from a Chevy, auto parts stores sell it for like $49, new. Getting a used clutch at the salvage yard is not always a good idea, if the one at salvage shows any oil or grease on the front it will be bad 90% of the time. That said, a good used Chevy clutch from a 1998 - 2002 Chevy pickup or blazer should also fit, but now you are into experimenting, which is fine for me, not so good for you maybe.
4. The fan is "slow" because it uses a viscous coupling in the clutch. Two metal halves of the clutch rotate, and a silicone fluid between them provides the "power transfer connection." When cold the fluid has settled to one side of the clutch, and fan will "roar" when truck starts. In a minute or so as fluid is spread out, coupling decreases and noise drops. At normal operating temp only about 20% of power is transferred, saves gas. When temperature warms up eith a valve or the viscosity of the fluid changes, increasing coupling to maybe 60-70%, increases cooling when at idle or slow traffic. If fluid has leaked out over time this does not happen, fan appears slow when at idle, and if truck is turned off you can probably spin your fan several revolutions (free-wheel).
5. In the rare case where a previous owner replaced the AC electric fans, they might have the polarity reversed or blades backward. On mine, I had a bad main fan clutch, and when AC fans came on the air flow was "subtracted" and the main fan would almost stop. Mucho overheat at idle.
So read the tech sticky write up, it is simple to do, once you get fan off, will need neighbor for that. If you want to see all about other experiments, search for my post about Fan Clutch Whupped Me...
2. The acceptable test is to stop the engine when warmed up, then spin fan by hand. If it twirls around more than one revolution it has lost the fluid inside that engages it. YOUR BELT ROUTE COULD IMPACT FAN SPEED.
3. There is a write up in the tech sticky area about a substitute fan clutch, from a Chevy, auto parts stores sell it for like $49, new. Getting a used clutch at the salvage yard is not always a good idea, if the one at salvage shows any oil or grease on the front it will be bad 90% of the time. That said, a good used Chevy clutch from a 1998 - 2002 Chevy pickup or blazer should also fit, but now you are into experimenting, which is fine for me, not so good for you maybe.
4. The fan is "slow" because it uses a viscous coupling in the clutch. Two metal halves of the clutch rotate, and a silicone fluid between them provides the "power transfer connection." When cold the fluid has settled to one side of the clutch, and fan will "roar" when truck starts. In a minute or so as fluid is spread out, coupling decreases and noise drops. At normal operating temp only about 20% of power is transferred, saves gas. When temperature warms up eith a valve or the viscosity of the fluid changes, increasing coupling to maybe 60-70%, increases cooling when at idle or slow traffic. If fluid has leaked out over time this does not happen, fan appears slow when at idle, and if truck is turned off you can probably spin your fan several revolutions (free-wheel).
5. In the rare case where a previous owner replaced the AC electric fans, they might have the polarity reversed or blades backward. On mine, I had a bad main fan clutch, and when AC fans came on the air flow was "subtracted" and the main fan would almost stop. Mucho overheat at idle.
So read the tech sticky write up, it is simple to do, once you get fan off, will need neighbor for that. If you want to see all about other experiments, search for my post about Fan Clutch Whupped Me...
#13
#14
see this https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...acement-32370/, your existing fan mounting holes have to be drilled out just a tiny fraction to allow the larger Chevy bolts.
#15
Im@Advanced auto and my brand new battery has no charge,rover wouldnt start@post office at 9 am,but startedbin mall parking lot,when I left work to come here..the dude at advanced says my cables r corroded and It may be a bad connection,not the battery..Now how on earth an I gnna be able to see if I have a "bad connection"?im freaking out here,Im in a strange city,my truck is messed up..and Im almost broke..seems I came here to spend whatever im making to fix this truck..what is the point????
Veryyyy frustrated
Veryyyy frustrated
#16
e for 3 months of work,til jan,Alachuas my "home" born and bred in Brooklyn Posts: 10
Im@Advanced auto and my brand new battery has no charge,rover wouldnt start@post office at 9 am,but startedbin mall parking lot,when I left work to come here just now..t.he dude at advanced says my cables r corroded and It may be a bad connection,not the battery..Now how on earth an I gnna be able to see if I have a "bad connection"? im freaking out here,Im in a strange city,my truck is messed up..and Im almost broke..seems I came here to spend whatever im making to fix this truck..what is the point????
Im@Advanced auto and my brand new battery has no charge,rover wouldnt start@post office at 9 am,but startedbin mall parking lot,when I left work to come here just now..t.he dude at advanced says my cables r corroded and It may be a bad connection,not the battery..Now how on earth an I gnna be able to see if I have a "bad connection"? im freaking out here,Im in a strange city,my truck is messed up..and Im almost broke..seems I came here to spend whatever im making to fix this truck..what is the point????
#17
little problems can be frustrating, but when you get it worked out you'll be in love with your truck.
checking cables can be pretty easy. if the wires are very corroded and you can see some of them separating at the terminals, they are probably on there way out. it is not very expensive, or difficult to just replace the cables with new ones.
if the cables look good, but the connectors are worn out and not making a good connection to the battery, it is easy to change those out as well.
could you take a picture of the cable connectors on the battery for us to see?
thanks
jon
checking cables can be pretty easy. if the wires are very corroded and you can see some of them separating at the terminals, they are probably on there way out. it is not very expensive, or difficult to just replace the cables with new ones.
if the cables look good, but the connectors are worn out and not making a good connection to the battery, it is easy to change those out as well.
could you take a picture of the cable connectors on the battery for us to see?
thanks
jon
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