Can someone help debug, verify this transmission problem I just started having on my 93 RR classic SWB Automatic:

upon starting the transmission engages in reverse or forward gears. shifts fine 1-2-3-OD. At the first light automatic downshifts back to first. Then it is stuck in first, revving up through 5,ooo RPM - still in first. attempts to shift to second but hangs between shifts and engine free revs. Still having the selector in 1 ot OD the rover coasts like it's in neutral. At a stop it will not go back in gear. shut if off for a few minutes, the transmission engages in reverse or forward gears. shifts fine 1-2-3-OD. At the first light automatic downshifts back to first. Then it is stuck in first, revving up through 5,ooo RPM - still in first. attempts to shift to second but hangs between shifts and engine free revs. shut it off for a few. same thing again. I did this 8 times to get the rover back home.

service history:
1. trans fluid change at 50K. current mileage 120K -- yes, time for a filter/fluid change.
2. idiot light for overheated trans is STUCK ON -- when cold or warmed up -- stuck on (been that way for 2 years now and no problems -- until now).
3. 1000 of the last 3,000 miles have been offroad, snorkel in swamp, submerged -- then sometimes 1-2' sand for 50 miles. gruling conditions.

 

Sounds like a lack of maintance as probably killed your tranny. When you get warning lights, you act on them "YESTERDAY".
With your mileage, that tranny should be service every 20,000 miles or so. It is safe to say it probably has over heated, causing the valve body to stick.
You could try doing a tranny service, adding a bottle of Lucas tranny additive to see if it will clear up the problem.
If that doesn't work. it is of to the local tranny shop for some internal diagnostic work.
Mike

 

we drained and refilled the trans one with dextron3. drove around the block. drained and refilled it again. The trans is properly shifting through ALL forward gears now. However I just tried to back up about 50 feet and the clutch-internal seems to slip. I'll look for some of the lucas additive.

The fluid was dark and dirty, however, it did not smell like it was roasted/burnt. I'd guess it's a matter of goo in the fluid that needs to be extracted. I was hoping to get a service where they exchange 100% of the trans fluid, however, the service shop did not know which lines to use for the exchange machine.

If my memory serves correct, reverse on many transmissions requires MORE pressure than forward gears.


Do I need to pull the Y-pipe and cross-member to change the filter? The factory service manual calls for those items to be removed when removing the trans, but doesn't list those steps for a filter service. ????


Thanks.

 

Get some Lucas, I know I sound like I work for them and I don't, product just works well.
I would suggest you go for one more fluid change and add the Lucas. Don't push it hard, just let it do it's thing and get more regular on your changes.
Mike

 

Thanks again.

Do I need to pull the Y-pipe and cross-member just to change the filter? The factory service manual calls for those items to be removed when removing the trans, but doesn't list those steps for a filter service. ????

 

I think you can drain the trannt without removing the Y pipe.
Mike

 

DM,

Yes we could drain it, however we are wondering if the Y-pipe and cross-member must be taken off to change the filter (I'm guessing we must remove the tranny pan. Given the high cost at the dealership for trans filter service I assumed it was necessary, however, after looking at the cross-member I'm thinking we might be able to remove the pan IF we remove bolts from cross-member and rotate it around.

I'm just trying to avoid messing with bolts on the Y-pipe if it's not 100% required. I'm still running factory exhaust on this 93 rover with 119K, in a very corrosive (salt-air) environment. The rover needs 4 doors, hood and lower tailgate but the floorpan, frame, engine, and rest of drivetrain (except ?? on the tranny now) is solid. The doors have been sacrificial anodes (haha). With stock tires this rover will do more in the swamps and dune hills than jeeps with $15K of mods.

I appreciate your help on this one -- as you can tell I've neglected it too much. Got some lucas trans add. and sea-foam trans tune today (at the recommendation of the carquest shop in town). I'm planning to replace 1 quart of the trans fluid with sea-foam (plus he said a thimble cap full of dot3 brake fluid), drive the rover for 1/2 tank of gas, and then change out the tranny filter and refill with the lucas+fresh D3. Thoughts on that approach?

Disco Mike -- did you once drive a mid-90's Red Disco in Palm Bay?

Thanks,
CS

 

Be careful with that recomendation to use. I have not any feed back on the SeaFoam tranny additive, although I promote the hell out of the SeaFoam as a gas additive and induction cleaner.
At this point with your mileages and the shifting problems, do the Lucas additive without the filter change, for now. What you are looking for is is the shifting performance will improve. If it does then spend the time and monet to change the filter and fluids.
Mike

 

All forward gears are working fine now. However, reverse is basically gone. Does not go into gear -- free-rev situation. Possibly the goop got into the reverse circuit and is sticking it up? or, maybe the reverse solenoid went out?

Is it advisable to allow the trans to idle with it in reverse for a few minutes IF it is slipping to get the "cleaner" in there? Now the filter change is becoming a higher priority.

 

Without know more about what is going on inside it is hard to say what will help.
If it were mine and before taking it to a tranny shop I would drive it staying more in the forward gears, let the fluid doe it's thing if it will, occasionaly try reverse.
Good luck and let me know what happens.
Mike