First check that play in the bearing is the problem - jack up the car and grip the road wheel top and bottom and rock the wheel - always use axle stands, never try this on ust a jack alone. If there's a lot of play then adjust the bearings. If there's only a tiny amount of play you'll probably be wasting your time adjusting them.

To do it according to the manual you'll need a dial test gauge to measure the tiny amount of slack required in the bearing for normal operation. However, I did mine by feel... essentially, wind the inner hub nut up as tight as you can BY HAND (under no circs use any sort of tool or you risk killing the bearing) and then back the nut off approx. one quarter of a turn. Check for play in the hub by giving it a good wiggle by hand - you should just about be able to feel it move - if you can see it moving more than a fraction of a milimeter then it's too loose. If the inner nut is too tight, once it's at running temp., the outer race of the bearing can cause the inner race to turn on the stub axle and you'll need a new bearing and stub axle to fix the problem.

Always use a new locking washer!

Now comes the tricky part you have to do the outer hub nut (or locking nut) up to the specified torque without allowing the inner nut to turn. I've found it's a lot easier with two people, one holding the inner nut in position with a screwdriver wedged against it while the other torques up the nut. If the inner nut moves, start over.

That's pretty much it - don't forget to check the play in the bearing once the road wheel is back on, if there is none there, you'll have to start over. Likewise, if there's too much play and the roadwheel feels slack, have another go making the inner nut a little tighter than before.

Cheers,

 

this is a common problem,it is normal for that year,no fix from landrover yet