Hi guys,

I have an Australian delivered 1999 D2 V8 that has been sitting for about 2 weeks and now wont start. I have had numerous D2's and my fair share of issues. This has been a good vehicle in the 6 months I have owned it. I have been reading multiple forums but not achieving a result.

I changed the crank position sensor today but no joy. Turn the key on and I don't hear the fuel pump briefly run and I have no spark (tested with a timing light). Engine will crank but absolutely no firing. I can smell fuel while it cranks. It is a dual fuel engine but when I switch to LPG it wont fire on LPG either.

I have a handheld diagnostic tool and the only thing it has told me in recent times is a camshaft position fault but reading tells me that it wont stop the engine running but may affect its performance.

When cranking the check engine light is extinguished. I read somewhere that the fault can be one of the relays either in cabin or under bonnet that has an engine symbol with a lightning bolt through it. I have switched relays one at a time (the relevant relays) and no joy.

I'm left wondering if a body module or an issue with the alarm system? I have checked the inertia switch and pushed it down for 5 seconds but no effect at all.

I know a guy who owns a Land Rover repair business so will go see if I can borrow his Testbook but before I do that I thought I would put it out there to the forum.

Thanks guys

 

Are you getting spark?

Have you checked all of your fuses in addition to the relays?

 

Have you tried the inertia switch? Pass side of a LHD vehicle on the fire wall (closest to passenger compartment.) Its a little black button looking thing. Push down.

And the firewall is under the hood. Near the secondary air pump if your vehicle is equipped.


Just reread that, you have check the switch. But the five second thing is meaningless. Its either on or off you just push down. Definitely check all of the fuses in the under hood compartment and the block located under your knees by the steering wheel. You can also lock and unlock the vehicle (someone correct me I cant recall) three times with the key (in the door) to temporarily disable the alarm system. Does your key phob work and what is the alarm light on the dash doing (blinky red guy in the middle.)




Also you say you tested for spark with a timing light. Were you using an old school style that hooks up to the number one spark plug wire and are you hooking it up to the drivers side front spark plug wire? Double check all fuses if you are not getting a reading from there. I rarely see D2 ECM failures unless the vehicle is actually used because of the poor location and water ingress into the ECM.

 

Also underneath (I think passenger front seat might be the driver seat) there is a small fuse that will kill the fuel pump. I think its the passenger seat at the rear, a little 5 amp or ten amp if I recall correctly.

 

It is possible, and not unheard of, to install the new crank sensor incorrectly.

The alarm, if armed, will keep the starter from cranking.

The BCU to ECM security sync will allow the engine to crank and to start, but it will immediately die.

 

Jafir is right! The sensor spacers sometimes are installed incorrectly causing the sensor to stick out farther. This then leads to no signal created by the crank sensor. Fixed a tow-in once from another shop due to this mistake.

 

All fuses are ok. Both under bonnet and under dash.

 

Some feedback for you guys.

The issue is resolved. Over here our dual fuel Disco's have underfloor LPG tanks and a small, custom petrol tank up under the wheel arch. I removed the custom tank and removed the fuel pump. Applying 12V to the fuel pump proved the pump was working. Checking voltages at the fuel pump wiring harness revealed no 12V when ignition switched on. I traced the wiring back to the fuse panel and confirmed continuity of the wire. I removed a small amount of insulation from the +12V wire to the fuel pump at the connector which sits under the fuse panel. I ran a jumper wire from the battery positive to the fuel pump wire and after a couple of seconds hit the key and she fired up straight away. I then removed the jumper wire and the engine has been fine since.

Diagnosis? If the computer sees low fuel pressure it will switch off the ignition so as not to damage the engine. Obviously having sat for several weeks unused the fuel pressure had dropped (slight leak somewhere?) and the computer killed the ignition. Forcing the pump to run, restored the fuel pressure thus keeping the computer happy and away we go.

 

Nice!