Hi folks,
Only recently purchased this Disco II V8. Getting used to it. However, it has an awful lot more bells and whistles than any of my previous 200 and 300 Disco's.

I bought it off of a chap I know, who has done a fair amount of work on it. One of the tasks he did was to replace corroded ACE pipe work throughout.

When I start the engine, I can hear pump cavitation. So, I bled the power steering pump. Noise still present. Screwdriver test shows the noise is from the ACE pump. On a few occasions, if I am taking a hard right (around a large roundabout) the ACE light comes on, and the car then wallows. Switch the engine off and restart and the ACE light extinguishes as normal. Because the V8 is so quiet, I can hear the pump continuously. I have read somewhere that if the ACE system is disturbed, it needs a shop visit to purge air from the system.

Can anyone give me some good advice?
Thanks in anticipation.
Camlobe

 

if you broke an ACE line yes you will need a piece of equipment made to bleed the ace system, a hawkeye, test book, nanocom something along those lines.

 

i have had a couple of issues with ace leaks. (off road damage) technically, it is a self bleeding system, but large amounts of air need help. as mentioned above, drow is correct, the communication with the system is recommended and the best and easiest way to bleed. i recently ordered a nanocom. haven't even received it yet and ace is one of the main reasons for the purchase......
that being said, I have bleed the system with out it. the more air, the harder the process.
small amounts of air can work themselves out. also with the pump running you can rock the truck side to side manually (roof rack makes this easy) to help force the air back up to the reservoir, consequently separating air from fluid. even though the valve block is essentially inactive while parked, the fluid is still circulating (just not pressurizing to the actuators). the manipulation is still moving/pushing the fluid air combo through the lines.
more air is not so simple.... i had to replace a big section of line and had a bit more trouble. rocking the truck, like a deranged ape, didn't get all the air out. i went to a large parking lot and did a bunch of circular driving.....it worked, but was a silly pita. a vacant round about also works. I had to be going fast enough for the system to be active. at slow off road pace it is not. goal is to have long cornering motions, so actuators are activated as long as possible


soon i will be using the nanocom. again as Drow mentioned, a few different ones will work and the all have pros/cons. if you decide to get that particular machine. it is currently discounted 20% for Christmas ....promo code xmas14.

 

I can hear a slight "pop" every 25 seconds, and it seems like it's an air bubble circulating, then "popping" when it reaches the valve block. That's where the sound comes from. and so on. It may go away for an hour but will return. What could this be/ I had the system redone when a pipe let go
-Richard,
BRAND new top hat sleave AB long block, 2" shocks and springs, Terra Firma lift, all pads and rotors, starter, alternater, fan, front driveshaft. Upper and lower *****, tie rod ends, fuel pump, blower motor, radiator, master Cyl, whew,,,,