LR3 2007: Air suspension fault, done the codes, done the fuses, replaced the compressor, valve block. It's some kind of odd electrical issue that is not allowing the air pump to start? But, if I waggle the 12V 70amp fuse under the hood (For the suspension) it comes on? Drive it down the road, and it goes off again. Swap around the 70 amp fuses, and it goes again, then stops again.

WTF? Where do I start looking for any kind of electrical issue that's not showing up in the codes. I know all about changing to springs, not an option right now. So, any of you guys out there had to sort out a ghost elec issue on the Air Suspension on an LR3 ? TY

 

If you wiggle the fuse and it works, then you have a connection issue in the fuse box and will likely need to replace it.
When you did the compressor, did you also do the relay? Failing compressors pull higher amps and burn up replays. Maybe wiggling the fuse is also vibrating the relay (also in the underhood fuse box) and making temporary connection. I'd start with a new relay and if no change, investigate the fuse box.

 

Thank you Have you ever taken one of those fuse boxes off? If so, is it hard to do? If so what's the process? Thanks for any thoughts

 

Removal of the primary relay box is not difficult, but the wiring is short giving limited work space. Obviously remove the battery first then things become more obvious. Also I though the compressor fuse was 30 amp not 70. But there are so many fuses to the system, so I could be wrong. But if I am correct then having such a high amp fuse in there could be a major issue an if the fuse it not blowing like it should you can end up with melted wires, blown relays, etc.

 

Do you have a phone number? I'd love to actually talk about this with someone? Mines 615 521 0030 if you fancy a chat? If not no worries. So when I took the relay/fuse out it said 70amp on it? Thoughts?

 

I usually pull the smaller standard fuse for the air ride. This says its a 20 in my workshop manual, pretty sure I have a 30 so I will have to check mine out! You must be pulling the other which is 60amp. So I you have 70 its probably not a major issue then since percentage wise its to a massive jump like going from 20 or 30. I dont think I ever noticed that larger window fuse before as the one I pulled always worked (fuse 26) to kill the compressor and EAS. I know there is yet another at the junction control box inside for EAS.

I learned never to call people I dont know. Helped a fellow once and suddenly I turned into a 24/7 tech center for him. lol Really though if wiggling the fuse seems to do something then I tend to agree, check the relay/fuse box first and see what you can find. I think its just one bolt that holds down the front with the rear part keyed into a slot or something so you just pull it a little forward. Been a while since I removed mine.

 

I understand, people can take advantage lol So the relay says 12v 70A which i take to mean 70amp? This has been such a pain in the ***, wish i'd never bought this car, i've had Land Rovers/Range Rovers in the past and never had issues like I have with this one, only had it 5 months, nightmare, one thing after another. Now this morning the compressor isn't even starting up? But I know if I drive it for a few miles it will go back on again, driving me nuts and don't have the money to take it to LR. I will try taking off the fuse/relay board and see what I can see. Do you happen to know the correct name of that fuse board? And if I get a new/used one will the car need to be reprogramed? Nightmare lol Thanks for your help

 

A really is usually over-rated for load, so a fuse can be 60 amp and a relay can be much, much higher since it not designed to provide circuit protection. But now I am confused, are you pulling/wiggling the relay or the fuse you said was rated 70 amp fuse that you were wiggling? If you have only been wiggling the relay, swap it with another form under there. Most of them are identical and basic type relays, just make sure you swap with something non-critical like fuel pump. You can swap to entirely new relay/fuse box (its not a board) and it would not require reprograming but I would imaging the wiring would be a nightmare. I mean everything goes to it and there is no main plug for it. It would probably be easier to repair it.

As for LR issues it comes down to maintenance. If you bought a neglected vehicle you inherited all its problems. As for EAS its very reliable. The dryer assembly on the compressor should be replaced or refurbished every few years or every 30k miles as far as I am concerned. The compressor itself every 100k miles. There is no much to the system. But its well monitored so its really odd you are not getting a codes or faults. I mean the compressor only kicks on when needed, which is not often, but when commanded the galley pressure is monitored at the center valve block. So if its been commanded to run and pressure is not climbing it would throw a code.

 

Sorry, to be clear, i've been waggling the suspension relay, the grey square four legged plug thing lol So, I was told to wipe a bit of vaseline onto the legs to see if it makes a difference, it did, the whole system worked straight away. The compressor started up, the sus works perfectly now. So, what does that now mean? And yes, I guess I bought one that wasn't loved, shame, I loved my RR never did all this crap and had the same system? Odd. Thanks for you help

 

Well monitor it for a while but I would still consider replacing the relay. It could easily be a bad relay or bad connection inside the relay box.