Howdy, new to the forums here. We just bought a '99 Discovery about a month ago and had our first problems crop up the other day. It started with not being able to turn the ignition all the way off to remove the key, it would just turn far enough to shut off the electrical system. I assumed that it was just because the key I was using is a new one. I drove it home after work and was able to get the key out a few times but the problem was still there intermittently. Then I noticed that the indicator light on the shifter often didn't turn in when the stick was pushed all the way forward but if I jiggled it around until it came on the key would come out normally. Good, the fellow we bought it from sent another shifter unit with it that he hadn't had time to swap in yet, I'll just do that and the problem will go away, right? I parked on a flat spot and came back later to do the swap. When I tried to start her up suddenly it was acting like it had a low battery, cranking slowly and lights dimming, wouldn't start. After a few tries it wouldn't even click when I tried to start and the radio wouldn't come on. The dome light still comes on but is really dim. Thinking that this was a new problem I 'shifted gears' to looking for electrical issues. The battery is brand new. I tried jumping it off of another running vehicle with no change, then I left the charger on the battery all night with still no change in the morning. Pulled the battery and took it in to work and it read 12.62 V so it seems to be functioning, I even swapped in another battery from one of our other rigs with no change.

So I guess the question is this: is there a fuse or connection that could have went out when I was messing with the ignition trying to get the key to turn? It doesn't seem to act like a blown fuse since she did try to turn over a few times before it went completely dead. Could all this be caused by the shifter issues? The electrical system and fuses all look pristine, almost too pristine, maybe it's had some issues before, too late to wonder about that now though. The problems all did crop up the same day.

Thanks for any advice or pointers you all may have, looking forward to getting to know the group here once I get our Disco back up and running.

Nate.

 

On a LR to remove the key you turn back till it stops then push in and turn it back one more time to remove the key. Battery should be 12.6v or higher without the engine running. Engine running 13.4 & up. Clean & tighten terminals.

 

Thanks, believe it or not I figured out how to remove the key on my very first try but it seems that if the computer isn't registering that the selector is in park the key can't be removed. Terminals are clean and tight and voltage was 12.64 between terminals a few days ago and 12.4 yesterday between positive terminal and frame yesterday when I checked it.
I've re-posted this thread on the Disco 2 forum so it might be good to remove this one to avoid confusion.
Thanks for your input., keep it coming.

Nate.

 

Turns out one of the grounding connections wasn't made. Multimeter showed 12.4V to ground but the first connection near the fuses was not even bolted.

I made that connection and he started right up, not sure why that issue just popped up now, we've been driving him for almost a month like that.

Thanks for helping,

Nate.

 

It looks like they removed the terminal from body grounding point, when they changed battery. The terminals on that battery are more center than normal. Usually, the battery will have terminals closer to the edge, which would allow the ground cable to reach terminal and still be secured at body ground point. This ground point is important for body functions, not so much starting/cranking over engine. If replacing this ground helped it start, I'd double check the ground cable, where it secures to alternator bracket...because this is the main ground for primary circuitry. Remove bolt and clean terminal end of cable and bracket. It will look clean, but corrosion will build up between the two and cause issues.